Use of human feces as fertilizer. We fertilize the garden correctly - what fertilizers are for what How to use feces to fertilize plants

• 1 When and how to fertilize plants with manure?
• 2 Fertilizing horticultural crops
• 3 Top dressing flowers
• 4 Suitable organic fertilizers
• 5 Details about the types of manure
• 6 And a little about the secrets of the Author
• 7 Recommendations from our Readers

Every gardener knows that it is impossible to ensure the correct growth, development, flowering of plants, as well as good yields, if the land is not fertilized. Every plant growing in your garden needs to be fed from the soil. But even if the land was fallow or used for other crops, it may not have enough of the necessary elements. And then the seedlings or seedlings will not be able to get enough nutrients.

Natural fertilizer for the soil

The natural and most famous fertilizer is manure, a natural source of trace elements, without which the full life of plants is impossible.

Plants by their appearance will immediately tell you that they are missing something. They will grow worse, changes in the size and color of the leaves will begin to occur, their color will not be so bright and vibrant, and the roots may die.

And therefore, taking care of the garden, garden, greenhouse, flowers and wanting to see the plants in excellent condition, you will certainly have to use fertilizers to care for them.

When and how to fertilize plants with manure?

There are only two ways to apply fertilizer: fill the soil or feed the plants.

Soil dressing is a single application of organic fertilizer just before planting the plants directly into the ground in autumn or spring, when you loosen the soil. If you combine them with mineral, you can get an excellent effect. Digging up a garden or empty beds, fresh manure is added to the soil only in the fall. But fruit trees will have to be handled with care. Fertilizer can burn the roots if it comes into contact with the bark. But you can lay manure in early spring.

Spring top dressing

Top dressing should be carried out during the period of development of garden and garden crops. If you feed garden plants when they grow, bloom and bear fruit, this will certainly affect the quantity and quality of the crop. By feeding the flowers, you will provide them with bright colorful blooms. And it is better to do fertilizer in liquid form.

Top dressing of horticultural crops

A few plants that benefit from fresh manure are cucumbers. Fertilizer will give an alkaline reaction and nitrogen. And the cucumbers love it. Feed them 4 times:

• At the beginning of flowering;
• At the beginning of fruiting;
• Another half a month later;
• In another 2-2.5 weeks.

Cauliflower requires double feeding. First, one and a half to two weeks after planting, and the second time - when her head becomes the size of a walnut.

White cabbage is also fed twice.

The first time they feed the tomatoes when 20 days have passed from transplanting to the beds, with the appearance of the second flower brush - the second time, and with the flowering of the third brush - the third.

Manure top dressing loves beets. They get excellent yields even where it grows poorly. With the advent of the third or fourth leaflet, the first top dressing is done, and when the root crops begin to pour, the second. And do not be afraid to overfeed her.

How to improve productivity?

We are constantly getting letters in which amateur gardeners are worried that due to the cold summer this year, a poor harvest of potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and other vegetables. Last year we published TIPS about this. But unfortunately, many did not listen, but some still applied. Here is a report from our reader, we want to advise plant growth biostimulants that will help increase yields up to 50-70%.

Before flowering, start feeding zucchini. Later, during the flowering period, this is done again.
When the third true leaf appears, feed the pumpkin.

But for carrots, top dressing may be required only under the condition of poor development of crops. Because usually she does not tolerate it well.

Potatoes react little to top dressing.

Top dressing flowers

If your flowers are annuals, you will need to feed them twice:

• A couple of weeks after the seedlings are planted in the ground;
• When flowers form buds.

Natural flower food

For perennial flowers, three times top dressing will be required:

• As soon as the earth dries up in the spring, loosen and fertilize it;
• When buds appear;
• As soon as the flowers bloom.

In this case, they will have enough strength for wintering, and they will be able to lay good buds for the future.

When feeding plants, it is important to remember that you should not fertilize them in the heat and at noon. If water drops get on the leaves, they act like a magnifying glass and can cause burns.
Every grower should know that there are conditions when flowers do not need to be fertilized.

• If the flower is at rest.
• If the snow has not melted and the earth has not warmed up. It is necessary to wait for the water to drain and to seize the moment when the soil is still wet.
• If you have recently transplanted flowers.
• If the flowers show signs of infection.

Suitable organic fertilizers

Most flowers prefer organic. The basis of such fertilizers is the remains of various organisms, and microelements contribute to their decomposition by their active actions.

Of the organic fertilizers, animal manure and bird droppings are most often used.

Manure is a fertilizer that acts slowly, gradually. And therein lies another value. It cannot be scattered and left on the ground or in small piles. Manure must be immediately buried in the ground. In the spring, you can dig it up again before planting, but in no case leave the manure to wait for the spring digging, if you do not want it to lose its qualities.

Universal top dressing for the soil

All types of animals have a different composition of manure. It is impossible to imagine the rich harvests of many vegetable crops, the bright flowering of roses, peonies, dahlias without the appropriate feeding with manure.

Bird droppings are characterized by the highest concentration of nutrients. Goat, sheep and horse manure is given second place. The latter belongs to pork, as the weakest in terms of the presence of useful elements in it, besides, it is highly acidic.
Manure is usually stored in heaps lined with peat or straw (hay) and it should lie down for six months, no less. Ordinary manure has a high content of potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen, which are so necessary for the growth and flowering of plants. By introducing fresh manure into the soil, you risk harming the roots of young plants, burning them, because its activity is very high. Therefore, it is recommended to use manure in the form of liquid top dressing.

It is best to fertilize garden and garden plants, flowers with cow and horse manure. Moreover, the mullein (as cow dung is called) must first be overheated, but horse dung can be used fresh for top dressing. By the way, the mullein is the most popular.

cow dung

As a rule, greenhouses, beds, flower beds are fertilized with liquid manure. It is not at all difficult to prepare it, one kilogram of manure must be insisted for a day in ten liters of clean water. Use this top dressing with diluted water in a ratio of 1: 2. After such watering, you can loosen the soil or mulch.

Details about the types of manure

Cow dung. Not uncommon at all. Suitable for all types of soil. It takes a long time to decompose, so it can be used from early spring until the flowering period of plants. The best effect can be obtained from half-decomposed manure that has lain for a year or six months. Requires tedding and flipping. Determined by color. It is usually black, and its constituent parts have not yet become dust. Acquires the greatest value after three years.

Useful properties and disadvantages of mullein

Pig manure. It is rarely used in the garden. It will take several years for the substances in it to be absorbed. Its decomposition is slow. If you decide to fertilize them, it is worth remembering that you can expect little benefit from it for a long time.

Bird droppings. The most accessible, but very insidious. Its excess can burn all your plantings and, moreover, render the soil unusable for a long time.

You can prepare an infusion from it in the same way as you did with cow or horse manure, you will have to insist for almost two weeks. They usually dilute half a liter of infusion in a bucket of water. Plant roots are poured with this solution. Although it should be borne in mind that bird droppings in themselves are a fast-acting fertilizer. Therefore, it is not recommended to use it too often, otherwise nitrogen will accumulate in the soil in large quantities. So if you want to use it in solid form, just close up the manure for autumn digging.

Horse and sheep manure. Fast decomposing organic fertilizers. Can be used fresh. Horse manure is especially loved by roses.

Rabbit litter. Excellent organic fertilizer. It is recommended to use in liquid form. For top dressing, it should be infused with water for a week in a ratio of 1:10. Winter manure can be laid out as a mulch directly under the plants and not worry about their safety. Rain and watering will activate top dressing and enrich the soil.

Note! Never try to use cat and dog feces as fertilizer, do not put them in compost. Even more! If you meet their "traces" in the garden, remove them. They are not just not useful. They are harmful.

An excellent fertilizer is infusions with pure manure in combination with the ground part of individual plants. Among them, comfrey and nettle are of particular value. First you need to insist a kilogram of green mass with 10 liters of water for two weeks. And before watering, the infusion, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10, mixed with manure.

Manure is often used as part of compost. The compost heap is stacked in a dry place. Manure, straw, leaves, peat, weeds are piled together, covered with ordinary earth and periodically watered. After a year, the fertilizer is ready and can be applied to the ground, mixing with the soil.

In order for plants to grow, develop, bloom and bear fruit properly, each sprout in your garden or in your house must receive additional nutrition. Therefore, if you want the plants to be in excellent condition, do not forget to use fertilizers when caring for them. And then they will thank you with rich harvests and lush flowering.

And a little about the secrets of the Author

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When and how to fertilize the garden

A good harvest can only be obtained on good land, and in order for the land to be good, it must be fertilized. When is the best time to fertilize- spring or autumn? Timing the application of fertilizer to the soil is of great importance. Many agronomists believe that those who fertilize the land with manure taken out in winter make a big mistake. The benefit is minimal. Fertilize the soil in spring, leaving the manure to lie for a month and a half before plowing. In this case, the fertilizer efficiency will almost double. About varieties, timing of application to the soil and effectiveness various kinds fertilizers and will be discussed in this article.

All fertilizers are divided into 3 main groups: Organic, mineral and organo-mineral fertilizers.

organic fertilizers

They, in turn, are also divided into 2 groups: animal origin and vegetable origin. Vegetable fertilizers include composts and peat, and animals include manure and bird droppings. When fertilizing with organic substances, the structure of the soil is significantly improved and this contributes to the reproduction of living organisms that benefit both the soil itself and plants. There are also some disadvantages - an imbalance of nutrients can occur, weed seeds can come across in such a fertilizer, and organic matter can cause plant diseases and attract toxic substances.

If you decide to use organic fertilizers, then it is better to use compost. It is prepared quite simply: on an area of ​​\u200b\u200babout 10 square meters. meters, straw 15 cm thick is laid out, then a layer of manure - 20 cm, a layer of peat - 15-20 cm. Phosphorite flour and lime are poured on top, mixed in a 1: 1 ratio. For 1 sq. meter should be poured 50-60 grams of the mixture. A layer of manure 15-20 thick is again covered from above. All layers are covered with a thin layer of soil and kept for 7-8 months.

With regard to fertilizing with manure, in our time the number of cattle has been greatly reduced, and therefore we have to look for an alternative. as products plant origin for fertilizer, you can use everything that grows and rots: cut grass, fallen leaves, tops and weeds, etc.

It is impossible to fertilize the land with fresh manure. Getting into warm and humid soil, such fertilizer begins to actively decompose and release heat and gases, so the crop can simply “burn out”. Fresh manure is used only for feeding mature plants, diluting it with water and watering the aisles. You can also use dried manure, pouring it in a thin layer between the rows.

It is better to use manure if it has lain for at least a year - during this time it decomposes and turns into humus. It is worth remembering that in its pure form, manure and chicken manure rot worse, so it is better to dilute these animal waste products with straw, foliage, sawdust and even shredded waste paper (it is better to take paper without printing ink).
AT organic fertilizer, as you know, a smaller part of nitrogen is in a soluble form, and a large part is part of the insoluble organic compounds. When compost hits the soil, myriads of soil inhabitants, eating, decomposing and transforming it. As a result of the activity of microorganisms, insoluble nitrogen gradually turns into a soluble form, which was shown by the analyzes: immediately after the introduction of compost into the soil, the content of soluble nitrogen begins to rise steadily. And then it all depends on the growth rate of the aerial parts of plants. In potatoes, this process is so intense that it “eats away” all the nitrogen prepared for it. soil organisms, therefore, under potatoes, the content of available nitrogen in the soil remains low until early August and begins to rise only when the tops of potatoes stop their violent growth. On carrots, where haulm growth is slow at first, the nitrogen content was quite high until mid-July, and then decreased in line with increased leaf growth.

During the autumn fertilization, plant nutrients are part of the soil organo-mineral complex, and the whole next season the plant lives due to the gradual disintegration of this complex and the release of available nutrients. The speed of this process depends on the activity of microflora, which is determined by external conditions: soil moisture, temperature, looseness, and so on. In addition, organic fertilizer serves as a source of substances necessary for the formation of humus for soil microorganisms. When applied in autumn, organic fertilizer decomposes more slowly, and the process of its incorporation into humus proceeds more intensively and to a greater extent contributes to increasing soil fertility. If you regularly add compost or manure to the soil in the fall, you can create real black soil in your garden. When applied in spring, organic fertilizer decomposes faster and better supplies plants with soluble nutrients. This is important for plants, since spring and early summer are the period of their active growth, requiring abundant nutrition. Thus, autumn organic fertilizer contributes more to soil fertility, and spring - to plant nutrition. Both are important. This decision suggests itself: we bring compost or manure in the fall, and in spring and summer we feed the plants with liquid fertilizers, which are easy to make: mullein infusion, fermented nettle infusion or any weeds. To enrich these nitrogen-rich infusions with phosphorus and potassium, bone or phosphate rock and ash are added to them. Another option is to apply most or even half of the compost in the fall, and the rest in the spring. You can use green top dressing. The main raw materials are ordinary grass, weeds. The green mass is finely chopped, put in a large container and poured with warm water (10 liters of water per 2 kilograms of grass). All this should be fermented for 2 - 3 days, after which you need to stir and strain the solution. Then they feed the plants with the calculation of 3 - 4 liters per 1 square meter. It is necessary to perform the procedure 2 - 3 times with an interval of a week. This solution is useful for vegetable and berry crops, it not only nourishes them, but also protects them from pests and diseases.

Mineral fertilizers

These chemical substances should be used carefully and strictly according to the norm. Usually gardeners and gardeners use nitrogen, potash, manganese, lime and other types of such fertilizers. The most common nitrogen fertilizers include saltpeter, urea, ammonia water and ammonia. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied twice a year - the first time around mid-April, and the second time - in mid-November. The way they are applied is the same in both seasons - fertilizers are scattered by hand, and then the land is cultivated. It is better if the earth is moist at the same time.
Potash fertilizers also significantly increase yields. Usually, potassium in the soil is in a hard-to-reach form, so the need for plants in it is great. It is better to apply potash fertilizers in the autumn period along with manure before the main cultivation of the land.

Phosphate fertilizers are also important for plants. Without this element, the formation of chlorophyll in plants is impossible, therefore, the application of such fertilizers not only increases the yield, but also improves the quality of plant products. Phosphorus fertilizers are scattered on the surface of the soil, and then they dig it up to a depth of about 20 centimeters.

FROM mineral fertilizer we get the following picture. Immediately after the introduction, a sharp jump in the content of soluble nitrogen was observed: it increased by 5-6 times compared to the initial one and kept at high level until about mid-July. Analyzes showed that at some point there was three times more soluble nitrogen in the soil than was applied with mineral fertilizer. This phenomenon is explained by the fact that mineral fertilizer stimulates the decomposition of soil organic matter and accelerates the release of soluble nitrogen from it. The decay of humus under the influence of mineral fertilizers is a phenomenon that has even received special name: priming effect. But in the middle of summer, the peak is replaced by a sharp drop, and the content of soluble nitrogen in both cases - with organic and mineral fertilizers - becomes the same.

It is not difficult to guess what consequences this has for plants. On mineral fertilizers, they grow more intensively, develop abundant leaf mass and give a correspondingly higher yield, although this applies to different crops to a different extent: spinach and potatoes yielded significantly higher yields on mineral fertilizers than on compost, while beans and carrots turned out to be less dependent on nitrogen.

However, when studying the quality of the crop, the advantage turned out to be on the side organic fertilizer. This was manifested in a lower nitrate content, and most importantly, in a significant reduction in storage losses. Both potatoes and carrots grown on organic fertilizers were less affected by fungal diseases.

Mineral fertilizers do not increase soil fertility, but rather destroy it. They can be used for top dressing, but only in very moderate doses so as not to cause excessive growth of leaves and not disrupt the activity of soil microflora. Moreover, it is worth applying mineral fertilizers only if organic fertilizers are applied in the autumn, since soil with a high content of organic matter partially removes the negative impact of mineral fertilizers.

Organo-mineral fertilizers

They are humic compositions of mineral and organic substances. Each drug is used according to an individual scheme, but there are general rules. For open soil, spraying is used, and for closed soil, surface irrigation, drip irrigation, sprinkling and manual spraying on the leaves. For seed treatment, 300-700 ml of fertilizers are used per ton of seeds, for foliar feeding - 200-400 mm per 1 hectare of crops, for spraying - 5-10 ml per 10 liters of water, and for drip irrigation - 20-40 ml per 1000 liters of water for irrigation.

Separately, it is worth mentioning plants that improve the soil. These include rape, oil radish, rapeseed, turnip and others. Before recently in order to improve the soil, only lupine was used, which enriched the earth with nitrogenous mineral fertilizers, but in recent times other equally useful and effective plants became known.

For example, after harvesting, you can sow a plot with rape, which, before the onset of frost, will have time to sprout and grow to a plant with 6-8 leaves in a rosette. In early spring, after the snow has melted, it will begin to grow intensively and should be plowed into the soil before the beginning of May. After that, the earth will be enriched with mineral and organic substances and improve the structure. In addition, the rapeseed contains a large amount of phytoncides, which destroy pathogens in the soil.

If there is a possibility of non-use of the land plot for a whole year, then it can be sown with oil radish. In this case, the soil will receive the necessary norm of nutrients, and there will be much less weeds. Approximately 70 grams of radish seeds go to one hundred square meters of land. For uniform sowing, it is better to mix the seeds with river sand.

And a little more about how to properly prepare and fertilize the soil with manure.

We have already considered in detail how to properly fertilize with chicken manure, now more about manure. good quality manure is obtained where it is stored in stalls under cattle, trampled down daily, covered with a new layer of straw. During the daily removal of manure, it is accumulated in large manure storages, where it must be shifted for better preservation with peat or earth. It is also useful in cases of daily removal of manure to add to the bedding or put in the gutters of the stables for each head of livestock about 1.5 kg of peat, which, on the one hand, achieves air purification, and on the other hand, preserves slurry containing the main nutrients substances for plants. When manure is covered and layered with earth and peat, all nitrogen. Manure, when preserved in this way, usually acts strongly and quickly. Re-layering of manure with earth is done every 60-90 cm, and a layer of earth of 7-9 cm is superimposed. The richer in humus the earth, the better. A layer of manure of 60-90 cm is again superimposed on this earth, which is again covered in the same way with earth. Manure is always trampled down. The bottom of the manure storage is usually laid out with straw, a layer of 60 cm thick. The straw must be trampled down. The manure storage itself is usually chosen at a high place so that side waters do not flow into it. The slurry water flowing out of the manure storage must be collected in special tanks, and the same slurry must be poured over the manure. Manure heaps should not be made higher than 2.5 m, because the lower layers of manure are too compacted and heated. A big mistake is made by those who fertilize with manure, digging too deep into the soil. The more superficially the fertilizer is applied, the better, the faster and more accurate its action. The best thing is to fertilize with manure to the depth of one shovel. If the fertilizer is applied to the soil at a depth of 40 to 50 cm or more, as is unfortunately very often done when planting trees, then oxygen does not have sufficient access, and therefore the fertilizer cannot properly decompose and produce the proper effect on the tree. . Practice has often proved to us that a fertilizer applied too deeply, after a few years, was found in the soil in the same form as when it was applied to the soil, and, consequently, absolutely no benefit came from it.
If you fertilize with manure in the summer, then the fertilizer is always folded into small piles, broken up and plowed as soon as possible. The incorporation of manure should be the finer the heavier the soil. The decomposition of manure is accelerated if, on the fifth or sixth day after ploughing, it is again plowed to the surface and well mixed with the soil. In most cases, it is also beneficial to roll the soil with a heavy roller after fertilizing with manure, since in this case the manure is pressed down to the ground, which ensures its uniform decomposition and causes the rapid germination of weeds, which must be immediately destroyed.
When cultivating cabbage, strawberries and other plants, it is best to use humus from hotbeds or completely decomposed manure, because fresh manure contains a lot of weed seeds and insects easily start up. Under the cover of humus, moisture is stored in the ridges, in addition, rains and water during irrigation wash out all the nutritious juices from the humus into the soil, thus, in one step, both fertilizer and moistening of the ridges are achieved. Putting humus should be a layer of about 5 cm thick, and the plants themselves should not touch the manure, otherwise they may rot. Strawberries should be fertilized with manure especially carefully - so that manure does not get into the core of the bush. Instead of humus, other substances are often used, such as chopped straw, chaff, moss, sawdust, etc. When they are buried in the soil, straw and the other materials listed here can also serve as fertilizer, but they rot too slowly and compared to humus, they are too poor in nutrients. On calcareous and sandy soils that are too light in color, covering the ridges with humus is necessary to change their color so that the heating of the soil occurs more evenly. On dense clayey and light sandy soils, crushed peat can be used with complete success for surface fertilization. In autumn, peat, which has served and completely weathered, is dug into the soil when hoeing and in the first case loosens dense, heavy soil, and in the second it makes light, sandy soil more coherent.

Green manure

Natural organic matter (manure, litter) is not available to everyone, and it costs a lot of money. In the fight against weeds, like a thousand years ago, you have to wave a hoe and crawl on your knees. If the summer is humid, various diseases overcome the potato, and as a result, in the autumn and winter, it becomes necessary to repeatedly sort the crop in order to remove diseased tubers. Indeed, a lot of labor and money goes to the dacha (subsidiary) farming. Is it possible to alleviate the financial and physical burden that falls on the owner of a garden or a summer cottage? Yes, you can. Let's start with the fact that in the old days they avoided using fresh manure for potatoes. It was believed that the tubers from it become tasteless and watery. From the diseases accumulated in the soil, they were released using the fruit change. Of course, having several acres of land (each with an area of ​​1.1 hectares), it was possible to organize a three- or seven-field crop rotation. Today, on six acres, this is a rather difficult task. But still, the people do not despair - one sows barley, the second winter rye, and the third dreams of growing peas together with potatoes. CROSS-FLOWER CROPS
The best option is to sow cruciferous crops as a green manure, consisting of a mixture Oilseed radish, white mustard, rapeseed. These plants have been known in world agricultural practice since time immemorial, being close relatives of cabbage plants. They came to us from the ancient farmers of East Asia and the Mediterranean. Cruciferous crops are now widely cultivated economically. developed countries(France, Germany, Holland, Sweden, etc.) as phytosanitary and as crops that increase soil fertility. Oil radish- powerful, highly branched and sprawling plant 1.5-2.0 m high; with corollas of flowers from white to purple. It is not found in the wild flora, wild field species are found. Cold-resistant plant, growth does not stop until late autumn, grows back after mowing. In comparison with white mustard, it is more moisture-loving, shade-tolerant and productive. Seeds and pods taste like radishes. Blooms 35-45 days after sowing. Mustard white- was one of magical plants ancient Greeks. Even today, having unique properties, it serves as a classic object of study of science. The height of her shoots is somewhat lower than that of the oilseed radish, and the flowers on the racemes are yellow. Mustard is the fastest growing annual plant. It strongly reacts to the length of the day and the photo period, so the highest yields are obtained during the summer sowing dates - after June 22. Convenient for its precocity and undemanding to the type of soil. Rape- about 1.2-1.5 m high, flowers of light yellow color. It is somewhat more demanding on heat than oilseed radish and white mustard. There are spring and winter forms that can turn into each other. The pods of spring rapeseed can open after seed maturation, then the sowing itself takes place, and after overwintering in the spring, part of the young plants grows in the form of a winter form. Sometimes another type is practiced - rape. This is a more "wild" form, inferior to rapeseed in terms of yield, bitter in taste and worse eaten by animals, but better adapted to different types of soils. There are hybrid forms of rapeseed with fodder cabbage, turnip (for example, typhon), which are relatively more productive and stable in various climatic conditions. USEFUL PROPERTIES OF GREEN FERTILIZER
What are the benefits of cruciferous crops?
Here are 7 of their most distinctive properties:
1. For sowing one hundred square meters of land, only 180-220 g of seeds are required. A denser sowing is used if the biomass is additionally alienated for animal feed. Cultures have a very high rate of development, so you can sow at a variety of times, from May to September. best timing for a high harvest are June-July. In practice, it is sown repeatedly in 2-3 terms per season. Flowering occurs 30-40 days after germination and lasts until the end of autumn. Flowering plants withstand frosts down to -6 ... 8 ° and even - 12 ° C. 2. The green mass of plants contains the same amount of nutrients as cow dung: nitrogen - 0.5%; phosphorus - 0.25%; potassium - 0.6%. The mass of plant residues grown on an area of ​​100 m2 contains the following amount of mineral fertilizers (in conventional terms for chemical composition): 3-5 kg ​​of ammonium nitrate; 2.5-3.5 kg of superphosphate; 3.5-5.0 kg of potassium salt. In addition, the green mass, when incorporated into the soil, deoxidizes it, acting like the introduction of lime, since it has an alkaline content of cell sap. 3. The underground part of plants has the ability to absorb nitrogen from the air, like clover and lupine. Root secretions dissolve mineral inclusions in the soil and convert microelements, phosphorus and potassium into a form accessible to subsequent crops. 4. Decaying cruciferous biomass releases substances into the soil that inhibit and suppress the growth and development of weeds. On a substrate rich in organic matter, saprophytic microflora rapidly develops, which displaces pathogens of agricultural crops from the soil. 5. After harvesting the green mass, along with rotted residues, plant growth and development stimulants from the class of brassinosteroids remain in the soil, increasing the yield and improving the quality of the commercial products of subsequent crops. 6. Green mass is an excellent food for all kinds of animals and birds, contains up to 30-35% of crude protein in terms of dry matter. This is 2 times more than in clover and 3 times more than in barley grain. It is rich in vitamins, unsaturated fatty acids and various nutrients. Regular feeding, even in the form of a small supplement, strengthens the immune system of young animals, makes it resistant to viral and bacterial aggression. Young, not hardened shoots, having a sweet-burning taste of radish, are a delicacy for children. Radish pods are canned like vegetables. Mustard powder and medicinal ointment are prepared from the ripened mustard seeds, which are used for various diseases and ailments. 7. Honey-bearing qualities of cruciferous crops are also generally recognized. Their main advantage is in the release of nectar on days even with cold nights. The nectar contains an average of 120-180 kg/ha of sugars. Cruciferous crops provide honey collection in early spring (winter species) and in the second half of summer (spring species), when other honey plants have already faded. Honey crystallizes, so it is removed from the hives for the winter.
AGRICULTURAL TECHNOLOGY You can sow cruciferous crops for green manure at any time - from early spring to late autumn. For sowing, a small (required) amount of seeds is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1:50, scattered over the site and harrowed. The optimal seeding depth is 2-3 cm. cruciferous plants they are not demanding on the type of soil, but are responsive to fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, especially nitrogen fertilizers (if the soil is poor). To some extent shoots early dates crops can be damaged by pests, the probability of such a fact is small in June and July crops. With sparse seedlings, you should not particularly worry, since the yield value is capable of auto compensation, i.e. it depends little on the density (density) of plants per unit area. When used as a green manure, plant biomass during the flowering phase is mowed, crushed and incorporated into the soil. This is the cheapest type of fertilizer, with which none of the other types can be compared in terms of precocity and economic efficiency. In the northern regions, twice a season it is possible to "fertilize" the soil in this way. In the middle lane, this can be done three times. If the plot is half a hectare or more, part of the area can be taken out of circulation for 3-4 years by sowing with pink clover (on waterlogged and swampy soils), pink clover and lupine (on heavy clay soils), blue alfalfa and eastern goat's rue ( on medium and light loams), horned loam and yellow alfalfa (on light and sandy loamy soils). One of the basic rules of organic farming is to never leave the soil without vegetation cover. Green manures that grow before, after, or in between major crops create dense leaf cover. It protects the soil from weathering and mineralization of organic matter, reduces the leaching of nutrients into the deep layers and keeps them in the upper fertile horizon. This leaf cover acts as a living leaf mulch, which is especially important for light sandy soils, especially those suffering from nutrient leaching from the upper horizon. Therefore, it is recommended, whenever possible, to sow green manure on light soils in the fall and leave it for the winter, and in the spring to embed living or dead plants in the soil. Green manure also plays an important sanitary role. Firstly, it suppresses the growth of weeds, and in order for it not to become a weed itself, it is necessary to mow or close it up before seeds are formed. This applies to rapidly growing and abundantly seeded rapeseed or mustard plants. Secondly, some types of green fertilizer help cleanse the soil from pests and diseases. For example, dense sowing of mustard significantly reduces the amount of wireworm.
Green manure produces a green mass that can be used as mulch or as composting material. Take care of the land on time and correctly and you will always have a rich harvest!

Many have heard about what wood ash is and what its beneficial properties are from relatives or neighbors in their summer cottage. Someone pours it out after each cleaning of the stove into the garden or adds it to flower pots, however, you need to be more careful with this fertilizer: without certain knowledge, you should not scatter it everywhere at random, otherwise it will turn out to cause serious harm to plants instead of good.

It is known that ash is the fireproof residue of combustion products: what remains after a fire, in a stove or fireplace, when branches and leaves are burned, etc. Tops, grass, leaves and stems folded into a compost heap will eventually give an excellent organic fertilizer, and the ash obtained as a result of burning the same material will bring its own huge plus, because it is also a valuable microfertilizer for cultivated plants. Therefore, you should not throw all the garbage from the garden over the fence or put it exclusively for rotting.

Ash is not only an excellent source of minerals, it also:

• improves the properties of acidic soils;
• helps earthen microorganisms quickly turn organics into useful elements for plants;
• accelerates the growth of seedlings;
• effectively fights insect pests and various diseases.

The use of ash powder in the garden is more necessary than simply possible. But not any. When burning household waste, varnished painted boards, newspapers and magazines with bright pictures, etc., very harmful ash is obtained, containing dangerous chemical compounds that will destroy plants.

It is interesting that by burning natural harmless residues: tops, branches, grass - completely different ash is obtained, which differs in the composition of trace elements. For example, wood ash from softwoods (aspen, linden, alder, pine, spruce) contains more calcium than hardwood (oak, poplar, elm, larch, ash). Young wood, sunflower stalks, buckwheat, wheatgrass roots are leaders in the amount of potassium, unlike old trees.

After burning plant material, not only calcium and potassium turn into ash, but all the positive elements (except nitrogen) contained in the burning raw materials: silicon, magnesium, iron, phosphorus, sulfur, manganese and a huge list of vital and useful elements. Each of them plays an invaluable role in the growth and development of plants: they help absorb vitamins, increase resistance to diseases and weather changes, regulate water balance, and significantly improve soil uniformity.

Some people know ash exclusively as a phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, where phosphorus helps sprouts grow quickly and develop normally throughout the entire period, and potassium is responsible for the immunity of crops. However, the proper development of the root system, for which calcium is responsible, is also important. Ash from burnt peatlands is rich in calcium, which ensures optimal development of the root system.

A great advantage of ashes is the complete absence of chlorine in its composition, to which many garden plants react negatively. But potash (K2O) mixed with ash is an ideal top dressing for everyone. Potash in the ashes is formed by burning sunflower stalks and Jerusalem artichoke tops.

As a fertilizer for plants, it is required to prepare an ash solution p: 150 g of ash is dissolved in a 10-liter bucket of water and the finished suspension is immediately poured into the grooves or holes where the plants will be planted, then the areas should be sprinkled with a layer of earth. The finished solution should not be stored, because the beneficial properties will soon disappear - a fresh solution must be prepared for each procedure.

When planting seedlings of peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplant and cabbage, it is necessary to pour 50 ml of ash solution under each plant.

Spraying with an ash-soap solution is necessary to destroy harmful insects and sores, as well as as a preventive measure. It is prepared as follows: 300 g of powder in a small amount of water should boil for 30 minutes, and when the broth settles, it is filtered and water is added to make 10 liters. Many people add any soap for the best adhesion - 40 g will be enough. Evening calm weather is ideal for spraying. Process no more than 3 times a month.

The formula for preparing an ash solution universal for all cultures requires certain knowledge: in 1 tsp. - 2 g of ash, in 1 tbsp. l. - 6 g, in 1 matchbox - 10 g of powder, in 1 glass - 100 g, in liter jar- 500 g of ash.

What do plants need

Fly ash, as it turned out, has three predominant useful components: potassium, calcium and magnesium. The use of ash is justified only by the lack of these substances in the ground:

• leaves and fruits are deformed and stained, flowers and buds fall off, the upper part of the shoots dies, the plant stops growing - not enough calcium;
• the leaves curl up, dry up from the edges and wither, the smell of roses disappears - a lack of magnesium.

Excess elements:

• the leaves become pale green, and then completely fall off, the pulp of apples and pears turns brown - a lot of potassium;
• leaves also fall, shoots die off, chlorosis is noticed - excess calcium;
• the roots die off, which leads to difficulty in the absorption of calcium - an excess of magnesium.

Before adding ash powder, you need to carefully examine the plants and find out whether they really lack useful ash trace elements or, on the contrary, their excess is noticeable.

Application for horticultural crops

Ash is a fertilizer that is used to alkalize acidic soils before plowing, as well as when planting seedlings and tubers, while feeding grown plants. Root top dressing is carried out together with watering.

In addition, any seeds can be soaked in an ash infusion to stimulate growth before planting. For infusion take 3 tbsp. l. ash, dissolved in 1 liter of water and infused for a week, periodically shaking the jar for uniform dissolution. The solution is filtered and diluted with water 1 to 3 before use.

Potatoes are pollinated with ash powder before planting(1 kg to about 30-40 kg of tubers), sprinkle fleshy cuts of flowers during division, scatter under vegetable crops to protect against pests, and dust plants damaged by diseases.

The effectiveness of the impact of ash when it is introduced into the soil does not disappear within 3 years.

Ash powder will protect the cabbage from the black leg and keel. It is useful for cucumbers, zucchini and squash: 1 tbsp. l. powder is added to the well when planting crops or 1 cup per sq. m during digging.

When planting eggplant, tomatoes and sweet peppers, add 3 tbsp. l. ash in the holes and mixed with the ground or added when digging 3 cups per square meter. m.

The powder has a beneficial effect on plums and cherries: fertilizer is added to the planting holes and tree trunks are pollinated with it. It is also useful to feed with ashes every 3 years: along the perimeter of the tree crown, they dig a groove no more than 15 cm deep, pour ashes there or pour in a solution (dissolving 2 cups in 10 liters of water). The groove is covered with earth. In general, an adult tree takes about 2 kg of ash powder.

Under the currant bush, it is enough to add 3 cups of ash. For tomatoes, cabbage and cucumbers, 500 ml of solution per bush is enough. On plots for root crops and greens (beets, carrots, radishes, lettuce, parsley, dill, etc.), 1 glass of ash per 1 sq. M. is added before planting. m. The grapes are fed no more than 4 times during the summer, spraying the leaves with an ash solution in the evening. For strawberries, you need 1 cup of powder per 1 sq. m before flowering.

Apply ashes all year round:

• in the spring, for digging, they are brought into the ground and when planting seedlings;
• fertilizer with ash in the fall - also before processing the site or simply scattered on the ground;
• in the summer, universal top dressing is made from the ashes;
• in winter they are scattered over snowdrifts to speed up the melting of snow.

Excellent results are obtained by combining it with humus or peat. By adding ashes to the compost pit, waste will decompose much faster. Even more effective is to sprinkle with ashes layer by layer, which will give a super useful unique fertilizer for the next season, suitable for all crops.

However, you should not mix the ashes with manure, ammonium nitrate or bird droppings, in this case there will be a loss of nitrogen and the plants will grow very slowly.

Use in insect control

A few tips on using ash as a protector clearly won't hurt anyone. For example, few people know that scattering ashes around plants in the evening can protect them from slugs and snails. And the most popular way - dusting crops from seedlings to full-sized ones will allow them to get rid of various pests and diseases for a long time. Pollination is also foliar top dressing.

It is enough to sprinkle strawberries with ashes after flowering to protect them from gray rot (10 g per bush).

Processing is best done early in the morning until the dew has dried, but you can also moisten the crops yourself before pollination.

In order to prevent bacterial and fungal sores, plants are dusted with a mixture of ash, charcoal and calcined sand in equal proportions.

Spraying the plant with an ash-soap solution is effective. Processing is carried out up to 3 times a month.

The ash must be stored in a dry room in a cloth bag or other container, because water removes all useful elements from the powder and thereby reduces the value of the fertilizer.

Different soils have their own ash

Sandy, swampy and soddy-podzolic soils require the addition of ash in the spring of 100 g per 1 m² - this will fully compensate for the lack of boron for plants.

For all types of soil, except solonetsous, straw and wood ash is suitable. Alkaline fertilizer will be especially useful for soils depleted in microelements, in particular, potassium and phosphorus, as it enriches and improves soil structure, actively reducing acidity, which positively affects the yield for more than one year. Peat ash will help neutralize the acidity (half a kilogram per meter).

Can houseplants be fertilized?

Fertilizing with ash infusion is very important for indoor flowers.: 3 tbsp. l. environmentally friendly powder is dissolved in 1 liter of water and left for a week, shaking occasionally. Before use, the filtered solution is diluted with water 1 to 3 and the plants are watered: 100 ml - per 1 liter pot.

It is already known that wood ash as a fertilizer for indoor plants helps in the fight against small pests. Dusting flowers or spraying with a solution helps (after spraying, you need to hide the plants from the sun for 5 days).

Garden roses are most fond of ash top dressing. They can also be watered with an ash solution (100 g of ash is dissolved in 10 liters of water) and leaflets are sprayed (200 g of ash is dissolved in 10 liters of water).

Fly ash is perfect for peonies, gladioli, clematis and lilies. The same infusion is used, then for indoor flowers. It will be useful to add 10 g of ash to each well when planting.

When Not to Use Fertilizer

Ash harms plants that prefer acidic soil (hydrangea, rhododendron, blueberries, cranberries, azalea, heather, etc.).

Also, you can not use it with previously applied nitrogen-containing fertilizers (manure, bird droppings, ammonium nitrate, urea), because nitrogen eliminates almost all the beneficial properties of ash.

If the earth contains a lot of alkali, the ashes are also prohibited from being used as fertilizer.

What can replace

With acidified soil in the country and the absence of ash at hand You can use alternative options: fluff lime or dolomite flour. Flour is added in an amount: half a kilo per 1 sq. m with acidic soils and 100 g less with moderately acidic; lime is also half a kilogram per 1 sq. m with acidic soil and 200 g less with medium acid.

Ash is not just a universal fertilizer. With proper use of which you can achieve amazing results: the plants will look gorgeous, the harvest will please with large healthy fruits and total absence pests and infections.

It is important to note that ash powder is a non-chemical, absolutely clean and safe product, tested and used by grandfathers and great-grandfathers from time immemorial. Plus it's free!

Have a wonderful harvest!

Plant care continues after harvest. It is at the end of summer and autumn that the soil should be “filled” with fertilizers, which will create a supply of nutrients for the next season. How much and what kind of fertilizer should be applied to the beds in the fall?

autumn top dressing"dacha flora" pursues several goals at once. Firstly, this way the plants more easily tolerate the destructive winter frosts. Secondly, this is a good start for next spring, when trees and shrubs will be in dire need of nutrients. Thirdly, fertilizers contribute to the protein-carbohydrate synthesis of plants and other processes occurring inside them. Fourthly, you have the opportunity to apply complex fertilizers and calculate their exact dosage so that each plant receives the specific substance that it needs the most. What kind of fertilizers and in what volume is best to apply in the fall?

What fertilizers are applied in the fall to the soil

Before the onset of winter, almost any fertilizer can be applied to the soil. Let's bring brief description each type of fertilizer.

1. Mineral fertilizers. Plants absorb nutrients from the soil only in the form of an aqueous solution, so fertilizers are usually applied in liquid form. There are many specially selected compositions: for lawns, fruit trees, conifers, berries and ornamental shrubs, perennials, etc. Tellingly, "autumn" fertilizers must be labeled appropriately on the packaging: "autumn", "for autumn use" and contain a minimum amount of nitrogen. At the same time, they should contain phosphorus, potassium and calcium, which strengthen the immunity of plants and increase their resistance to low temperatures and.
2. Manure and litter. These fertilizers are responsible for soil fertility. Fresh fertilizer is applied for digging, it cannot be applied directly under the plants, otherwise the roots can be burned. The frequency of manure and litter application is 1 time in 3-4 years.
3. Compost. Slowly decomposing compost has earned the nickname "black gold" among summer residents. With it, the soil remains fertile longer, and its positive traits intensify.
4. Peat contains a lot of organic matter and retains moisture well. True, there are few nutrients in high-moor peat, and it actively acidifies the soil. Lowland peat has a slightly acidic or neutral reaction, and there are more useful microelements in it. To find the sweet spot, it's best to add peat to your compost and use them together.
5. Ash.Gardeners and gardeners have long used ash as a promising and versatile fertilizer. It is obtained after burning weeds, tops and branches. Like manure, it is brought in for digging every 3-4 years.
6. Sawdust, as well as chopped grass, tree bark serve to loosen dense soils and retain moisture - on sandy ones. Gradually decomposing, sawdust turns into humus, which feed on microorganisms, fungi and worms.
7. siderates. This is the cheapest and most environmentally friendly fertilizer. Siderates are sown at the end of summer, and in autumn the grown greens are embedded in the soil. The most commonly sown crops are: lupine, alfalfa, vetch, clover, rye and oats.
8. potash fertilizers.This type of top dressing is applied in the fall, because during the winter the negative effect of the chlorine contained in them is neutralized, and the plants receive the necessary dose of the necessary substances. Potash fertilizers are often used to feed indoor plants.

The amount of fertilizer applied depends on the degree of depletion of the soil, sometimes up to 100 kg of fertilizer is needed per 10 sq.m.

What fertilizers are applied for digging

The worst thing is to “refuel” the soil with useful substances for those who are dominated by clay and loamy soils. During the winter, they are so compacted that almost nothing grows in them. Such soils need to be loosened since autumn and then one or more fertilizers should be applied:

• manure- apply about 3-4 kg per 1 sq.m no more than once every 3-4 years. After digging the soil to a depth of 15-20 cm, carefully lay it around the plants, but make sure that the composition does not come into contact with their root system - otherwise it may burn out;
• grass cut,those. finely chopped weeds and grass. First, form a groove 20 cm deep. Lay a 5-7 cm layer of cooked weeds or tops left after harvesting on the bottom and cover with a layer of soil on top. Then lay another layer of chopped grass and sprinkle with earth again;
• phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.On average, 40-60 g of superphosphate and 25-30 g of potassium salt or potassium sulfate are applied per 1 sq.m of soil;
• green manure. There is simply no better time to plant green manure in the soil than autumn. As soon as they reach a height of 10 cm, they can be cut and dug up with the ground.

Overwintering plants mainly require phosphorus and potassium and, to a lesser extent, nitrogen.

What fertilizers are applied in autumn under fruit trees

The fertilization period for fruit trees falls on mid-October. It is the autumn planting of fertilizers that best helps the trees to endure cold winters. In autumn, the following top dressings are applied under fruit trees:

• humus improves the structure of the soil, directly affects the yield, providing the tree with all the necessary substances. Under young trees, 30 kg of humus should be applied, and under those that are 9-10 years old or more - up to 50 kg;
• phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.Under each apple tree and pear, 300 g of superphosphate and 200 g of potassium sulfate are added. Fertilizers are planted together with organic matter or poured into the near-stem circle and watered. For plums and cherries, preparations must be diluted in a proportion of 3 tbsp. superphosphate for 10 liters of water and 2 tbsp. potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water. Pour 4-5 buckets of the resulting solution under each adult tree;
• complex top dressing, such as "Orchard", "Universal", "Autumn". They should be applied in accordance with the instructions on the package;
• manure also often included in the autumn "menu" for feeding trees. But remember that you can’t fertilize trees with fresh manure, it must “reach” to readiness in at least 2-3 years. They bring it into the trunk circle when digging, and then mulch the soil with mowed grass or another type of mulch. Application rate for fruit trees- 4-5 kg.

After fertilizing the trees, it is desirable to mulch

What fertilizer to apply for berry bushes

Fertilizing under berry bushes should be started only after the entire crop has been harvested. In particular, currants and strawberries can be fed closer to the end of summer, and you should not delay with other crops either. Here is what is usually brought under berry bushes:

• ash- This is a natural mineral fertilizer that is great for berries and shrubs. It is obtained after burning leaves, grass and small vegetation. 3-4 kg of fertilizer are applied per 1 square meter, but they do this no more than once every 3-4 years. Raspberries respond especially well to ash feeding;
• chicken manure can be applied after harvest. This is not the most pleasant, but incredibly useful fertilizer. It is best to use dry and packaged chicken manure at the rate of 0.8-3 kg per 1 sq.m. After that, dig the bed. Also, the aisles can be watered with a solution diluted in a ratio of 1:15;
• complex mineral fertilizers from any specialized store. Use them in accordance with the instructions for use;
• dolomite or lime flour used to reduce the level of soil acidity, the average application rate is 300-450 g per 1 sq.m.

Remove and burn all plant debris before fertilizing

What fertilizers are applied to the potato bed

After harvesting potatoes, the cycle of field work does not stop. It is at this time that plowing and digging are carried out, and then fertilizers are applied, creating a reserve for the next year:

• straw manure is the best representative of organic fertilizers, without which the cultivation of potatoes is impossible. It is believed that the introduction of such a simple fertilizer increases the yield by 2 times. Before plowing, it is scattered over the bed at the rate of 5-10 kg per 1 sq.m;
• green manure you can also plant freshly harvested potato beds in the ground. They are mowed and covered with a layer of soil 10 cm thick;
• nitroammophoska, nitrophoska and ammophos- These are excellent complex fertilizers for autumn feeding of potato beds. The general application rate is about 2 tbsp. per 1 sq.m, but it can be adjusted based on the instructions for use;
• other complex formulations . In particular, in autumn it is good to "refill" potato beds with double superphosphate (25 g/sq.m.), potassium chloride (15 g/sq.m.) and vegetable ash (300 g/sq.m.).

Potatoes can be fed with humus, compost and rotted manure (no more than 10 kg per 1 sq.m)

Autumn is not the time to relax and rest, enjoying the fruits of your labor. In this short period of time before the onset of winter cold, you need to prepare for the next season and provide the garden with a comfortable “wintering”, which will allow you to count on a rich harvest in the future.

For a healthy and aesthetic appearance, any plants - indoor and garden, large and small, fruit and ornamental - require nutrition in the form of basic fertilizers and periodic top dressing.

The presence of the required amount of nutrients in the soil depends on the set of green mass, abundant flowering and fruiting, as well as successful wintering.

Fertilizers are recommended to be applied regularly according to the calendar and nutrient requirements. This will help indoor plants maintain an attractive appearance and a healthy root system, garden plants - to resist pathogenic microorganisms in the soil, fruit plants - to produce large yields and protect themselves from pests.

What fertilizer and when to apply

The main nutrients for any plant organism are nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Additional micronutrients.

Functions of basic fertilizers:

• nitrogen - makes it possible to develop the aerial part - shoots and leaves. With a lack of nitrogen, the color of the foliage changes, wilting and drying out. Plants consume nitrogen throughout the entire growing season;
• potassium - affects the formation of buds and flowers, feeding plants with potash fertilizers promotes root development. A lack of potassium causes foliage to fall off and makes the plant defenseless against fungal diseases;
• phosphorus - regulates the consumption of nitrogen by the plant, affects the root system. Both the lack of phosphorus and its excess are harmful. In both cases, the balance in the nutrition and respiration of green spaces is disturbed.

When using mono-fertilizers, one should take into account the type, variety, composition of the soil, the amount of precipitation, indoor plant or growing in open ground, fruitful or decorative. The amount and concentration of nutrient solutions will depend on these factors.

Video: Recipes for simple and inexpensive dressings

In small doses, plants consume trace elements: calcium, boron, copper, zinc, magnesium and manganese, sulfur, iron, cobalt. For periodic top dressing, you can use complex fertilizers from microelements, or you can proceed from the composition of the soil and add only those that are less than the prescribed amount.

Mineral or natural organic fertilizers

With equal success, both mineral and organic fertilizers can be used to feed plants. To be more precise, for fruit crops on his suburban area in the presence of manure or chicken manure, it is better to use organic matter: it is more beneficial for plants and for humans. But mineral supplements are also suitable.

Decorative species, except for beauty, do not produce anything else, so for them you can limit yourself to mineral complex fertilizers. It is enough to protect the plant from pests and diseases, and it will gratefully bloom all summer.

If the farm is large and organic fertilizers are not enough for the entire area, then combinations can be made in the form of mixtures of nutrients - mineral and organic - taking into account all the factors (read above) that will affect the concentration of the solution.

Can top dressing replace the main fertilizer

Top dressing, which is applied to the soil to improve its quality and composition, can be divided into basic and auxiliary.

Basic fertilizer is the doses of nutrients (nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus) that are added autumn and early spring. During the winter, when plants are inactive, fertilizers have time to turn into an accessible form and by the onset of spring they will be ready for consumption. The same applies to indoor, greenhouse and container plants - before winter, the main part of mineral fertilizers is applied in the form of phosphorus and potassium, before the spring growing season, nitrogen is added in the form of urea or salts. This is the basis of the "diet" of vegetation.

Additional nutrient additions cannot make up for the lack of basic fertilizer. The additional introduction of components is intended to maintain a balance in plant nutrition. These are trace elements in the form of foliar top dressings for garden, container and fruit-bearing plants, additional doses of nitrogen nutrition, which are advisable to introduce on sandy soils. Spraying is carried out mainly in summer, when the appearance of plants shows a lack of any substance:

• nitrogen - insufficient set of green mass, weak shoots;
• phosphorus - discoloration and fall of foliage, it has a dark color, underdevelopment of the root system;
• potassium - brown spots are observed on the leaves, buds or inflorescences are poorly formed.

The lack of trace elements in various types of soil leads to underdevelopment or death of plants. Trace elements are applied together with the main fertilizers, or if there are signs of deficiency.

The main nutrients for plant nutrition are in a certain proportion so that absorption is not disturbed. For example, phosphorus and nitrogen should be present in the soil in a ratio of 1.5/1. When the amount of substances changes, a power failure occurs.

Which top dressing is more effective - liquid or dry

If you choose between liquid or dry fertilizers, then for indoor and container plants you definitely need to choose liquid ones. It can be:

• liquid organic fertilizers;
• solutions of mineral fertilizers;
• various tinctures of crushed green waste - mostly weeds.

Before making solutions under the root, it is necessary to moisten the soil in order to avoid burning the roots.

Video: What is the difference between liquid and dry fertilizers for indoor plants

Dry fertilizers are more often used for open ground, where natural precipitation ensures the dissolution of dry matter and its entry into the soil in an accessible form.

Dry nutritional mixtures must be applied to a depth of 20 cm so that the roots have access to fertilizer.

Candles for vegetation

Candles as a fertilizer are best used for indoor plants. This is a solid form that gradually dissolves under the action of watering. There are both pros and cons of such top dressing. The advantage is that some amount of nutrition goes to the roots. Minus - uneven distribution and being in the soil constantly, even in winter. After all, plants do not need a lot of nitrogen in winter, and it is present in candles throughout the entire cycle of application, which can disrupt the needs of the plant.

It is advisable to put candles in the ground near the stem, which will be the best options for the root system.

Methods for preparing dressings

You can prepare top dressing using manure, chicken manure, kitchen waste in the form of vegetable and fruit peels, bread, and yeast.

For garden species- flowers, trees, fruitful crops, fertilizing from manure is done in advance. Manure must decompose, ferment to the desired state. To do this, a compost heap with a height of 1.5 meters. There are layers of manure, soil, grass, waste. After a year, the compost can be used.

The liquid substrate of manure or litter is prepared as follows: the dry matter is diluted with water and allowed to stand for 3-4 days, while active fermentation takes place. Then you can use it as a root top dressing.

It is desirable to add yeast to kitchen waste to enhance the fermentation and fermentation process, you can add green grass. When the tincture is ready, the grass is selected and used as mulch, and the plants are watered with the solution. Undissolved waste is introduced into the soil and added dropwise.

Chicken manure and manure contains a lot of potassium and nitrogen, but absolutely no phosphorus. Therefore, it is recommended to add phosphates. In this case, a complex full-fledged mixture is obtained.

Preparation of liquid organic dressings

To prepare the liquid form of the organic nutrient solution, cattle manure must be used. This is a universal remedy that is suitable for all plants - both garden and indoor.

There are forms of manure - litter and non-litter (fluid form). The second option is more profitable, as it ferments and ferments faster. Contains more than 50% ammonia nitrogen, which is better absorbed by green spaces.

Concentrated slurry is prepared as follows: 1 bucket of mullein is dissolved in 4 buckets of water, mixed and left in a warm place to ferment for several days - mostly from 4 to 7. Then one bucket of such slurry is diluted with another 4 buckets of water and green crops are watered at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 square meter. This top dressing is applied in the spring.

Manure must be well fermented so that excess uric acid evaporates, as it can burn the roots of young seedlings.

From autumn, concentrated liquid forms of supplements can be used. During the winter, organic matter will decompose and will not damage the roots.

The high temperature of manure decomposition (up to 70 degrees) during spring application will destroy young greenery

Plant nutrition in the garden

Garden greenery needs a more serious approach, as it is subject to frequent changes in temperature, precipitation, which leaches nutrients into deeper soil layers.

For the garden, top dressing in the form of the main fertilizer - potassium and phosphorus - is applied in the fall, which ensures safe wintering. In spring, nitrogen nutrition is the most necessary. Based on the qualitative composition of the earth - acidity, the thickness of the fertile layer - the optimal amount of fertilizer is selected.

To reduce acidity, chalk, slaked lime, dolomite flour are used. To saturate with boron - boric acid. It is also possible to carry out spraying with copper sulphate, a solution of pharmacy Trichopolum to prevent bacterial infection. Manganese is used as foliar top dressing.

Feeding container plants

Growing container ornamental crops differs little from caring for garden plantings. But for plants for which a large barrel or flower pot is a permanent place of residence, it is more expedient to fertilize by fertigation, in which nutrients are dissolved in water and thus applied under the root.

Why is this method better:

• less likely to overdo it with dosages and damage the root system;
• more economical use of fertilizers;
• a convenient form of assimilation for greens;
• regular and dosed nutrition.

Depending on the location of the container, less granular forms of fertilizer should be applied. If the pot is outside and exposed to natural precipitation, then the granules are suitable as top dressing. If indoors, then liquid forms are better with preliminary moistening of the earth.

How to properly feed indoor species

The needs of different types of indoor plants are different: cacti, ficuses, palms, orchids, violets. Firstly, the appropriate soil is selected for each species. For example, for cacti it is preferable great content sand, since such a composition does not retain moisture, which cacti are more accustomed to.

How to fertilize the land in the fall, if there is no manure? This question is asked by many gardeners. After all, autumn is the perfect time to fertilize. In winter, the soil rests, and all the organisms that are in it allow you to process useful components. In addition, fertilizing in the fall allows you to prepare the garden and garden for spring.

Synthetic or natural

After harvesting, it is necessary for the next season. However, not all summer residents know how to fertilize the land in the fall if there is no manure? Someone thinks that it is better to use several complex mixes at once. And someone, on the contrary, recommends using various fertilizers separately. This is the wrong approach. After all, some natural and synthetic additives can lose most of their useful properties during the winter.

In order to use fertilizers correctly, you need to know exactly which one can be applied to the soil in the fall, and which one should be left until spring. In addition, it should be noted that not all additives are universal. Some can only be used for trees, while others can only be used for soil intended for planting vegetables.

bird droppings

So, how to fertilize the land in the fall, if there is no manure. Bird droppings are considered the most concentrated organic fertilizer. This dressing is ideal for strawberries. However, it is very difficult to apply such fertilizer in spring and summer. After all, bird droppings are a caustic substance that can ruin a plant. Especially if the solution got on the roots of the bush. In addition, top dressing must be carefully prepared. Bird droppings are fermented, then defended and diluted with water.

It is best to use this fertilizer in the fall. Similar organic matter can be introduced into the soil, which will then be dug up. Bird droppings do not need to be prepared and bred. Moreover, there is no need to fertilize annually. In addition, it can adversely affect the condition of the plants. It is better to bring bird droppings into the ground once every few years.

Compost application

How to fertilize the land in the fall, if there is no manure and bird droppings? In this case, many summer residents use compost, distributing it throughout the site. Often such fertilizer is dug up along with the soil. You can also cover the ground with compost in a continuous layer just before plowing. However, according to experts, these are not the most effective methods.

After the entire crop has been removed from the beds, all weeds should be weeded out. After that, the soil does not need to be dug up. It should be covered with a uniform layer of compost. In conclusion, it is recommended to pour the supplement with an EM preparation, previously diluted in accordance with the instructions. After processing, the earth should be loosened with a Fokin flat cutter and not touched until spring. This method of composting allows you to maintain soil fertility. The earth does not turn sour.

What plants are suitable for

Thanks to this top dressing in the spring, additional top dressing is not necessary. Suitable fertilizer for potatoes. In autumn, compost is distributed over the site, and tubers are planted in spring. Harvest dates are shifted by about 2 weeks. It should be noted that this fertilizer is suitable for all early vegetable crops.

What fertilizers to apply in the fall under fruit trees? Many advise using compost. After all, the garden also needs additional nutrition. It should be noted that such a substrate is often used to protect the root zone of all fruit trees. To do this, the compost is laid in a fairly thick layer around the trunk along the entire diameter. Fertilizer is left here until spring. When the first warm days come, the soil near the trunks must be carefully loosened. Thanks to such manipulations, the useful components contained in the substrate penetrate deep into the soil and begin to nourish the roots of trees and shrubs.

Is it worth using ash

Apply organic fertilizers in the fall to the soil should be wisely. Ashes should also be attributed to natural dressings. This substance is rich in potassium. It is usually applied to heavy, clay soils. If the soil is soft, then it makes no sense to use quality. It will be washed out by spring meltwater from the soil structure. As for the application rate, only a glass of ash is required per 1 square meter.

It is worth noting that this fertilizer is ideal not only for replenishing potassium reserves in the soil, but also for combating some pests that can cause severe harm to certain crops. To do this, the area that will be used for planting garlic and onions must be carefully sprinkled with ash. This should be done on the last warm autumn days. The ash should cover the beds with a fairly dense layer at least 1 centimeter thick.

This organic fertilizer can be used to protect winter garlic and onions. In this case, the amount of ash is recommended to be reduced. The thickness of the layer should be no more than 20 millimeters.

Superphosphate

What fertilizers are applied in the fall to the soil? It can be not only organic top dressing, but also synthetic. For example, superphosphate. The main component of this compound is phosphorus. This substance is heavier than the rest dissolves in the soil. Therefore, it is recommended to make such supplements in the fall. Phosphate fertilizers are the main group of fertilizers. For 6 months, the active component has time to completely dissolve. In summer, phosphorus is an excellent nutrient base for any plant.

How much to deposit

Fertilizers for digging in the fall should be applied in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. If there are no instructions on the package, then you should adhere to the following rules:

1. Monophosphate (simple superphosphate) - 40 to 50 grams are required per 1 m 2.
2. Double superphosphate - 20 to 30 grams are required per 1 m 2.
3. Superphosphate granulated - 1 m 2 requires from 35 to 40 grams.

As for ammoniated superphosphate, it is not used for autumn application. After all, such a fertilizer is enriched with nitrogen, which is lost during the winter. Many experts recommend adding preparations containing potassium to the soil along with superphosphates. Without this component, phosphorus will not dissolve well.

Is it possible to use phosphate rock

So, what fertilizers are applied in the fall to the soil? This list includes phosphate rock. It is used for fertilizing impoverished and leached chernozems, which are being prepared for spring liming. This supplement has natural origin. These are crushed rocks.

Many experts recommend applying such fertilizers for digging in the fall along with manure. This contributes to a better dissolution of phosphorus in the soil. In addition, it is not suitable for every plant, as it contains calcium. The main advantage of the supplement is the natural composition. This fertilizer is absolutely safe for humans.

Organic fertilizer - urea

Fertilizing the soil in autumn is an important process. For these purposes, you can use urea. It refers to nitrogen supplements. The second name of the substance is urea. Main active substance- nitrogen of the amide form. Thanks to this component, urea can be applied to the soil in the fall. Indeed, during this period, it makes no sense to use nitrogen fertilizers. As for urea, the main substance in it is contained in the amide form. This prevents nitrogen from leaving the soil.

How to use urea

So, what fertilizers to apply in the fall under fruit trees, and which ones to use for beds? Urea is usually used in combination with phosphorus additives. Of course, nitrogen fertilizer can be applied in the spring. However, the time for this will be much less. To fertilize the soil, superphosphate should be neutralized with limestone or chalk. In this case, it is worth observing the proportions. For 1 kilogram of superphosphate, 100 grams of limestone or chalk is required. Two parts of carbamide should be added to one part of such a mixture. The mixture should be mixed and then applied to the soil. For 1 m 2, from 120 to 150 grams of the finished composition is required.

As for fruit trees, urea in combination with manure should be used for top dressing. In this case, the amount of carbamide should be less. For 1 m 2, from 40 to 50 grams will be enough. In this case, it is worth considering which tree the fertilizer will be applied under. For example, to feed an apple tree, 40 grams of superphosphate, 70 grams of urea and 5 buckets of animal organics are required.

Potassium sulfate

Fertilizing the soil in autumn is of particular importance. Calcium sulphate is an additive that is used in combination with phosphate and nitrogen supplements. Such a preparation is often used to fertilize the soil around gooseberry, currant and raspberry bushes. In addition, the additive is suitable for fertilizing garden strawberries and strawberries.

Potassium sulphate, which was introduced into the soil in the fall, allows shrubs to easily overwinter. At the same time, the percentage of survival of horticultural crops increases even with severe frosts. As for the dosage, 1 m 2 requires no more than 30 grams of fertilizer.

Calcium chloride

A similar substance is used as a fertilizer for potatoes. In autumn, the drug is scattered over the fields. Suitable for soil that will be used for spring planting of chlorine intolerant plants. This substance is an unstable element. Six months after the application of such a fertilizer, chlorine will partially disappear or dissolve in melt waters. At the same time, calcium will be well preserved in the soil. It is recommended to apply no more than 20 grams of such fertilizer per 1 m 2.

It is not recommended to introduce microelements individually into the ground in the autumn period, since only a small part of them will remain by spring. As a result, the substances will not be able to affect the yield of plants.