Sooty fungus on indoor plants. Plum diseases - how to cure a fruit tree and avoid crop loss? Causes and signs of fungus

Foreword

Plum diseases become a real obstacle to the healthy growth of the tree and obtaining a quality crop. Regular care and seasonal spraying of the crop from diseases and pests will help prevent them.

It happens that on sheet plates oval gray-brown spots with a crimson edge 4–5 mm in size appear, which dry out and fall out after a couple of weeks, and through holes form in their place. These signs indicate the development of a fungal disease called clasterosporiasis or perforated spotting. With a large scale of damage, the leaves dry out ahead of time and fall off.

Fruit gum

Often the disease also affects the fetus. On them you can see small depressed spots, where growths form over time, from which gum protrudes. At further development Plum disease is affected to the very bone, significantly deformed, stops growing and dries up.

In advanced cases, entire branches are affected. Elongated spots form on the bark, they burst, and gum oozes from the cracks. Neglect of treatment leads to the death of entire groups of shoots and bacterial cancer. The spores of this fungus overwinter in the leaves, so remove fallen leaves regularly and don't leave them to decompose until next year. In time, remove the affected shoots in early spring and autumn after harvesting, do not allow the plantings to thicken, in case of gum formation, clean the wounds and treat them with garden pitch.

To combat perforated spotting, use a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride. We carry out the first spraying in early spring before bud break and after the appearance of the first buds. Then we repeat the procedure immediately after flowering and again after 2-2 weeks. The last spraying should be no later than three weeks before harvest. If klesterosporiosis has affected the stone fruit culture too much, additionally spray the tree with a more concentrated 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid after the final collection of all fruits.

Gum therapy - how to avoid the "bitter tears" of a tree?

Gum disease is a common problem in stone fruits, including plums. It appears as a thick mass, the color of which varies from light yellow to brown. In appearance, the gum resembles a hardened resin. It is formed in the most vulnerable parts of the cortex. Mechanical damage, inaccurate pruning of branches, lack of sealing with garden pitch, sunburn and adverse weather- all this leads to cracking of the bark and the formation of wounds, which eventually fills with gum.

Gum treatment

Excessive watering and oversaturation of the crop with mineral fertilizers, especially nitrogen, can provoke the development of gum. Damp and cold weather, numerous damage to the bark by pests are another faithful companions of gum treatment. Gum is a good platform for the development of bacteria, stem cancer and the death of the tree as a whole.

In order to prevent gum bleeding, regularly monitor the condition of the bark, do not allow cracks and wounds to form on it. In case of gum formation, remove it with a sterile one, clean the place to living tissue, disinfect with a 1% solution of copper sulfate and carefully seal it with petrolatum or garden pitch. Remove severely affected branches.

Brown spots that are localized near the veins of leaf plates indicate infection of the plum with a fungal disease - rust. The main peak of the disease occurs in July. If the tree is left untreated, then small brown swellings will appear on the outside of the leaf, which over time can occupy the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe leaves. Trees affected by rust are weakened due to premature fall of leaves and a decrease in immunity. Rust is caused by a fungus. Therefore, in order to avoid infection, remove fallen leaves in time, and also treat trees with fungicides. Before flowering, spray the horticultural crop with copper chloride and 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid after harvest. Attention, three weeks before harvesting the fruits, we stop all spraying.

sooty fungus

A dangerous and very common plum disease is coccomycosis. The main focus of its defeat is the deciduous part of the tree, although the fungus can also affect young shoots and fruits. The activity of coccomycosis occurs in the first half of July. The first signs of damage – the formation of multi-colored spots on the leaves, from purple-violet to red-brown. With a prolonged course of the disease, small spots grow and cover almost the entire surface of the leaf plates, and a pink-whitish coating appears from the inside of the leaf. These are fungal spores. These leaves dry up and fall off.

If the fungus infects the fruits, they become covered with watery spots, stop growing and dry out. Favorable conditions for coccomycosis are warm, humid weather. However, the spores of the fungus perfectly tolerate cold and frost, settling in fallen leaves, so it must be removed and burned for the winter. We fight coccomycosis using standard familiar methods: we spray the trees before flowering and after harvesting with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride, using 30–40 g of the substance per 10 liters of water to prepare a solution.

An unpleasant black coating has formed on the leaves and shoots? This is a clear sign of soot fungus. It prevents the penetration of oxygen and sunlight into the tissues of the plant, thereby slowing down growth and disrupting the normal vital activity of the culture. Whatever the cause of the soot fungus, reduce watering and reduce planting density. As the main control measure, use spraying with a copper-soap solution, at the rate of 5 g of copper sulfate and 150 g of laundry or green soap per 10 liters of water.

If the branches of plum trees dry, become covered with brown spots, this is a sign of a fungal disease - moniliosis. This disease appears in cold and wet weather in the spring, when the flowering of trees begins. The flowers are the first to fall into the lesion, then the leaves and branches dry. Over time, spores form on them, from which the bark becomes covered with gray growths. Affects monoliosis and fruits. Wet weather is ideal conditions for the development of the fungus in fruits.

Moniliosis

Plums with mechanical damage and cracks are the first to be affected. Penetrating into them, the fungus forms brown spots, they increase in size and merge. At the final stages of the lesion, the spores of the fungus form small gray-brown growths on the drain. This is one of the most dangerous fungal diseases. If measures are not taken to treat it, infected trees can completely die.

We begin the fight against moniliosis by collecting the affected fruits located on and under the tree. We must burn all collected specimens; they are not suitable for compost. After harvesting, we spray the trees with a 1% solution of copper, iron sulfate or Bordeaux liquid.

Deformed plums are not uncommon in the garden. However, if the fruits on your trees form elongated and do not have a distinct shape, these are clear signs of plum pockets or marsupial disease. In such infected specimens, there are no seeds, the taste of the fruit is lost. Other hallmark fungal infection is the formation of a sticky powdery coating with spores. You can track the infection of stone fruit crops with marsupial disease immediately after the start of flowering. As with many fungal diseases, the ideal conditions for the development of plum pockets are high temperature and high humidity. The fungus overwinters in the scales of the buds and forms mycelium on the shoots.

plum pockets

If you do not start the fight against marsupial disease, you can lose up to 60% of the crop. To prevent this from happening, remove the branches that are dry and damaged by the fungus, and burn the affected fruits. In early spring, before bud break, treat the trees with a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid, and immediately after flowering begins with a 1% solution of the same preparation. So that the chemical preparation lingers in the tissues of the plant, and is not washed off at the first precipitation, use systemic fungicides such as Horus before and after flowering.

If a fungal diseases quite easy to treat, then the same cannot be said about viruses. One of the dangerous viruses is plum dwarfism. Its initial signs can be seen in small leaves, they have an elongated shape and uneven edges. Over time, the compaction of the sheet plate and its fragility are added to the non-standard form. A large number of such leaves are located at the top of the shoots. The flowers of stone fruit crops are tied poorly, have a painful and pale appearance. As a result, the dwarfism virus leads to slow growth and death.

Fighting the virus is useless. Dig up the infected tree and burn it. As a preventive measure against dwarfism, we recommend using only sterile garden tools, using all pest control methods on the site, and choosing virus-resistant seedlings.

Smallpox occurs not only in humans, but also in stone fruit crops. Smallpox, also known as Sharkey's virus, primarily infects leaves, forming chlorotic ring spots on them, which can be clearly seen when sunshine. The fruits are also susceptible to infection. They become dense, significantly deformed. Inside, the pulp acquires a brown-red hue, and ring depressed spots form on the skin, gum is visible in the cracks. Such fruits lose their taste, they fall off and are absolutely not suitable for human consumption.

Plum viral infections

To prevent the development of Sharkey virus, choose resistant varieties such as Renklod, avoid planting Mirabelle Wangangheim, Nancy and Zimmer. The disease can manifest itself on stone fruits throughout Russia, it is especially common in the southern regions, where all favorable conditions for its development. Aphids are frequent carriers of Sharka, so be especially attentive to this pest and take appropriate measures to destroy it in time. You should not plant near plums, as well as those crops that may be potential carriers of the virus - clover, sweet clover, nightshade, etc. Infected specimens are not subject to treatment, they are uprooted and burned.

Chlorotic ringspot is another dangerous plum virus. It is characterized by the formation of a blurry pattern on the leaf plates. Over time, the annular spots fall out, and in their place there is a thin mosaic border and through holes. The virus also affects the leaves. They become smaller, become narrow and rigid, have a wrinkled texture. Infection can occur through non-sterile equipment, poor-quality planting material, and also be carried by pests. Affected trees must be dug up and burned.

Witch's broom is a fungal disease that affects stone fruits, especially plums. Affected branches become thin, close to each other, there are no flowers on them, and leaves are rarely found, which are significantly deformed and small. Outwardly, the overall picture really resembles a panicle, from which the disease probably got its name. Over time, a whitish coating (spores) can be seen on the underside of the leaf plates, from which they become even more fragile and wrinkled. The pale shade of the leaves often changes to red.

Witch's broom

A proven method of spraying trees with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture in early spring, as well as a less concentrated 1% solution of the drug after flowering has begun, helps prevent the development of the disease. Among other fungicides, Ridomil Gold has a good effect against the fungus, which should be applied a few days before flowering, as well as Thiovit Jet after flowering.

Hello brothers in misfortune!

In our village it fungal disease has not yet acquired such proportions as in other villages of the Volsky district, but the pace of its spread is frightening.

It is impossible for a non-specialist to determine the presence of a disease even in the beds. At first glance, the affected turnip also looks quite decent, but under its outer dry scale you can find a black dusty coating that stains hands with “soot”, but is easily washed off with water.

The sooty fungus causes the greatest harm to onion sets. A closer examination of the bulbs reveals several stages in the development of the disease - first, the upper scale (we do not count the outer dry one) becomes watery, then a black coating appears on it, the scale becomes mummified, or even the bulb as a whole. Over the winter, a dozen bulbs often remain from a bucket of onion sets.

Let's fight my love complex method:

- we sort the sets very carefully. If the onion does not seem so golden, a little dark, remove the dry scale and look, perhaps a sooty fungus has been raging under it for a long time;

- it is better to throw it all away if signs of the disease are found and purchase a new one (choose carefully, ask a couple of suspicious ones to break). But there was no soot fungus on our land, just before the purchase of the sevka. When buying, the bow looked perfect (it went through not a single stage of sorting from the owner), but there were already disputes on it ...

- we pickle sevok, nigella (it too! Remember - it affects the entire onion) and seed (uterine) bulbs with a fungicide in accordance with the attached instructions. I met a mention that this can be done with tigam and TMTD preparations. Haven't tried it myself. I'm more inclined towards "phytosporin". There will be a result - I will write. "Maxim" does not give noticeable results when affected by a sooty fungus. Afraid - take potassium permanganate. ;

- we plant all three onions (sevok, nigella, seed) geographically remotely from each other, while observing crop rotation;

- remove in a timely manner (immature bulbs are more affected);

- dry properly - in one layer in a well-ventilated area. Better with direct sunlight. We practice taking crates of onions out into the sun. But remember - the sun can "cook" the onion. We have such a practice behind us (in 2010). So the sun should also be in moderation;

- for sevka, we radically change the place of storage (the spores of the fungus are stored in storage for a very long time). We choose a dry, well-ventilated place with a low temperature of 15-20 ° C. Our winter 28-30 ° C in an apartment or house is very conducive to the reproduction of the fungus, especially if the boxes are “adapted” somewhere in the corner ... Wet undergrounds are also not suitable, even if the temperature in them is appropriate. Difficult, but it is necessary to think;

- to change the cellar for turnips and seed onions - this is an impossible task. We will process - at least with a sulfuric checker "FAS". If possible, move the boxes to another corner of the cellar. For greater importance, you can throw out the boxes in which the onion was stored last year. For turnips, the best storage temperature is 1-3°C.

Do not let this disease go “on the brakes”! Once upon a time, the Tersinsky bow (a village in the Volsky district) was very popular in our area, now it is almost everywhere damaged there. Take care of your seeds.

Today we invite you to familiarize yourself with the catalog of all pear diseases, with photos and descriptions, as well as tips on how to deal with them. In the article we will talk about various methods of prevention, as well as alternative methods of treatment. This fruit tree, unfortunately, is sensitive to many pathogens, both of bacterial origin, and of viral or fungal origin. Therefore, if you want your orchard to be in excellent condition, you must carefully monitor it, and not only for the pear, but it also has a lot, but first things first.

Often, to determine what ailment struck the pear, its leaves can begin to turn black, curl dry, at the very beginning of spring, which is not typical for it at all, and such a move can leave the gardener without a crop.

Often one type of fungus affecting one fruit tree in the garden can spread to others, while being just as dangerous for all varieties and species. Therefore, if you find one of the pathogens on a pear, plum or peach, you must also process all the other trees growing on your site for prevention purposes.

As it became clear from the text above, the timely detection of pathogens can save your entire garden, so take the study of symptoms seriously.

Scab.

Fungus Fusicladium pirinum affects not only the pear, but also many other cultivated plants.

Symptoms: the foliage suffers first, from below on the plate you can observe a spot, dark green in color, plaque will be noticeable on these spots, these are fungal colonies. As the fruits progress and ripen, the scab spreads to them. The peel becomes stained, after which it begins to crack, the flesh in this place, on the contrary, acquires an uncharacteristic hardness, which reduces the taste. There is a deformation of the fetus, they lose their presentation.

Prevention :

Bordeaux liquid is a reliable remedy, it is necessary to process the pear three times to avoid scab:

1. As soon as greenery appears on the tree.
2. Spray a second time when the buds turn pink.
3. Already after flowering.

The access of the trunk to fresh air also significantly reduces the risk of scab. Therefore, be sure to thin out the crown, remove unnecessary branches, and be sure to coat the cut points with garden pitch. For air to enter the roots, it is necessary to loosen the soil near the trunk circle. Also, do not forget to constantly remove fallen fruits and branches, foliage.

After leaf fall, all biological waste is burned, away from plants. Those pears that are heavily infected with scab are treated with Dnok in the fall or with the help of Nitrafen paste. Systemic fungicide "Skor" shows excellent results, however, it must be used with all caution, acting strictly according to the instructions.

Do not give in to scab: "Muratovskaya", "Rusanovskaya", "January".

Fruit rot or Moniliosis of apple and pear trees.

This disease harms not only the pear, but also many other fruit and stone fruit trees in the garden. Moniliosis can cause significant damage to crop yields. It is especially dangerous during the fruiting period. But even after you have harvested the crop, the disease does not go anywhere, but remains on the fruits, where it continues its destructive effect.

It appears in two forms:

1. fruit rot. The causative agent is a harmful fungus. It is distributed in all regions in which stone fruits are grown. This is a very dangerous enemy, because after its action the fruits become completely unusable. The first manifestation will be the formation of a brown spot on the pear, which grows rapidly throughout the fruit. Taste qualities are completely lost along with the presentation. Light spots appear on the rot, these are spores of fungal colonies. They are easily carried by rain or wind, and insects can also be carriers. The rapid development of the event makes moniliosis a dangerous enemy for the entire garden, the incubation period lasts only a few days, and after a week the spores are ready to go to another tree. They penetrate through small cracks and damage. Optimal weather - temperature from +16 to +30 C and high humidity. If it is too dry, or hot, cold, the spores are not tolerated, but turn bluish in color and mummify, this process most often occurs on fruits during storage. Therefore, it is important to eliminate them, especially if they have fallen from the tree. The fungus can remain in them until spring, wait for suitable conditions and start infecting healthy plants.
2. Monilial burn. In this case, inflorescences and flowers, annelids, fruit branches and twigs remain affected. This condition is also caused by a fungus that is stored in the mycelium, on damaged branches, and in the spring, upon awakening, begins its vigorous activity. The awakening temperature is approximately +14 C, also a necessary condition for the spread will be high humidity, in the form of rains, fogs. This fungus is especially dangerous in the Far East.

Methods of control and prevention:

Constantly collect fallen fruits, if they show signs of infection, destroy them away from the garden. Pluck diseased, mummified fruits from the branches. Protect the pear and apple tree from scab, because at this time it creates cracks into which moniliosis penetrates, it is also necessary to protect the garden from birds, they can also peck at the fruits, damaging them, and opening the way for harmful mushrooms.

Infected plants can be treated with fungicides. At the first lesions, the codling moth can begin work, repeat the procedure after 15-20 days. In the case of pear treatment for scab and powdery mildew, treatment for fruit rot can be omitted. The following fungicides have proven themselves well: Horus, Strobi, Bordeaux Liquid, Abiga-Peak.

Remove the affected branches and fruits from the tree, because the causative agent of the monilial burn usually hibernates there.

Sooty fungus, pear leaves turn black, what to do.

blackening of pear leaves sure sign the appearance of soot fungus on the tree. It appears already from mid-July, in the form of a black coating on leaf plates, in appearance it is very similar to soot. The main targets for the pest are weakened plants, with a lack of minerals, or on which pests or other diseases have settled.

The best habitat for the fungus is sugar secretions from insects, such as aphids, in addition, it damages the structure of the tree, and sooty plaque penetrates through these cracks. Insects also weaken the pear's immune system. The fungus overwinters under the bark, or in dry foliage, and begins to act in the spring.

Control and prevention:

Insecticide - "calypso" is used to prevent the blackening of pear leaves, it destroys insect vectors. To curb the spread of the fungus in the complex, the fitover fungicide is used.

Resistant variety: "Cathedral".

Leaf diseases:

Due to diseases of the leaves or root, pear bark can completely stop bearing fruit. These diseases are very harmful, they must be eliminated in time to save your crop. The causative agents are fungi, viruses, bacteria.

Powdery mildew of apples and pears.

The carrier of powdery mildew is the marsupial fungus. Symptoms are very bright, they are difficult to confuse with other diseases. Already at the very beginning of spring, on young and not only shoots that have blossomed, you can notice a raid white color. Over time, it changes its shade to red, over time, the affected leaves or inflorescences begin to dry and fall off. Worst of all is the young shoots, as a rule, whole mushroom colonies settle on them.

Control and prevention:

Dry and damaged branches, shoots should be removed and burned away from the garden. From time to time, pears and apple trees must be sprayed with preparations: "fundazole" or "sulfite".

Folk methods of dealing with powdery mildew on trees.

As a fight against powdery mildew folk methods, you can treat the garden with a solution: soda ash 50 grams, 10 grams of liquid soap, all this for 10 liters of water. Sometimes a 1% solution of potassium permanganate is used to spray the tree.

Resistant varieties: "Moskvichka", "Spirit", "January".

Leaf rust.

Highly dangerous disease, which can lead to the death of the pear. Caused by the fungus Gymnosporangium sabinae. An interesting fact is that for a successful life, the fungus needs two plants: a pear and a juniper. In the juniper, he winters, and in the spring he moves to a fruit tree. It can destroy the entire crop, so rust control is very important.

Symptoms: On juniper, the fungus spreads throughout the plant, infecting everything in its path, the disease is usually chronic. On it you can observe swellings and wounds, as well as orange jelly shoots, which are mycelium. And in spring, when the weather is wet, the spores begin their journey to the nearest pear, infecting young foliage and fruits.

Rust appears as rounded yellow spots, such spots appear after flowering, as a rule, at the end of April. Already in the middle of summer, rust appears on most leaves, black dots also appear on the spots. The peak of the disease falls already in the fall, the red spots swell, shoots appear on them, they contain spores that are transferred to the juniper, so that in the spring the circle repeats again.

Prevention :

The first method of preventing rust on a pear, oddly enough, will be pruning diseased branches on a juniper, they must be burned immediately, away from the garden.

Rust control:

1. Infected branches must be cut, 10 centimeters lower, capturing the healthy part. Clean the lesions with a knife down to healthy wood, disinfect them with a solution of copper sulphate (5%), the last step will be to treat the cut site with garden pitch.
2. At the very beginning of spring, spray the pear with Bordeaux liquid 1%, it can be replaced with copper oxychloride. The second time spraying is carried out at the beginning of flowering, the third time shortly after the second, the 4th after another one and a half weeks. Sometimes copper sulfate is used 50 milliliters of the substance per 10 liters of liquid.
3. To protect the garden from various diseases, such as: scab, rust, you can use the preparation "skor" 2 milliliters per 10 liters of water. Spray at least three times - before the leaves appear, before flowering, and after.
4. Means "triadimefon" treatment is carried out 6 times a year, stirring 10 grams of the substance in 10 liters of liquid. The first time use the substance as soon as you see the manifestation of the disease, the rest every three weeks.
5. Wood ash tincture - dissolve half a kilogram of ash in 10 liters of liquid, let stand 48 hours.

Resistant varieties: Gordzala, Gulabi, Nanasiri, Sailo, Sakharnaya, Suniani, Chizhovka.

Diseases of the trunk and roots, photo and treatment:

This group is the most difficult to detect and, accordingly, to treat. Since pear leaves can turn black, and the reason will not be in them, but somewhere deep underground in the root system.

Black cancer (Antonov fire).

Black cancer develops slowly, over 2-3 years, first a crack appears on the bark, over time it grows, and the cambium is exposed. At the edges of the cracks, characteristic brown spots appear, these are nothing more than wounds into which fungal spores, viruses and pathogenic bacteria get into.

Fight: Cut off the affected areas with a knife, with a healthy tissue. Further, the resulting damage should be treated with clay, mixed with mullein, and applied on top of the wound. Always remove foliage and fruits by burning them away from plantings.

Resistant varieties: "August dew", "Samaryanka".

Cytosporosis (stem rot).

A fungal disease that affects the trunk, hence the second name. At the site of the lesion, the bark changes its color to red with a distinct brown tint, it soon begins to dry. Inside, the fungus penetrates through sunburn and frost-damaged areas of the trunk.

The treatment is similar to the treatment of black cancer, it is necessary to remove the damaged area, up to healthy tissues, and clean it with a knife. The place of operation is covered with clay. For preventive purposes, it is necessary to constantly carry out sanitary, and also be sure to whiten for the winter.

Resistant varieties to cytosporosis: Moskvichka, Yanvarskaya.

Bacterial burn.

most common cause Why pear leaves turn black is a bacterial burn of pome fruits. This is a rather dangerous disease, it can be cured only by applying an integrated approach. The causative agent is a bacterium that is carried both by insects and with the help of the elements (rain, wind).

Symptoms: the first manifestations can be seen during flowering, you need to look at the inflorescences, they begin to fade rapidly, their color changes, and the pear leaves begin to turn black, curl, the inflorescences turn brown, the bark peels off and dies.

Bacterial fire quickly spreads throughout the tree, and weak and susceptible plants die. Resistant plants will lose their ability to bear fruit for several seasons, after which their functions will be restored.

Fighting methods:

The infected shoot is immediately removed, and you need to cut it alive, capturing a healthy area by about 20 centimeters. Branches need to be burned, away from the garden. Tools that were used to manipulate an infected tree must be disinfected.

Folk remedies:

Some craftsmen and connoisseurs recommend, after cutting, coat the wounds with a solution (2.5 antibiotic tablets (rifampicin, gentamicin) diluted in one liter of water), the remaining drug is suitable for spraying the entire pear affected by a bacterial burn. With the beginning of the growing season, all fruit trees on the site are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid. The number of procedures is about 8-9 per agricultural year.

It can also be treated after the cut with fungicides: copper sulfate 1%, and iron sulfate 0.7%.

resistant varieties: "Moskovskaya", "Janvarskaya", "Martovskaya".

Root cancer.

Pathogen root cancer the bacterium Agrobacterium tumefaciens. Most often, the pathogen remains in the roots of an untreated seedling; it can live underground for 2-3 years. This is a dangerous condition that can lead to the death of the plant. Therefore, before planting, carefully inspect the roots, and if you see strange growths, as in the photo, be sure to remove them. Buy seedlings only in proven places, and be sure to process before planting.

https://youtu.be/6NKPh0XrwN8

Pests:

But not only diseases are harmful to a pear, there are also a lot of pests that can ruin a gardener's life. Therefore, during the peak season, it is necessary to carry out preventive measures.

Tick ​​(halo).

These small creatures can do a lot of harm. They are carried in different ways, by the wind, by insects, and even by the gardener, sowing on his clothes. After that, whole colonies of the settlement are formed on the leaves, you can recognize them by swellings on the leaves. These are the sites of poisoning, due to which ticks suck the juices out of the tree, further pear leaves begin to turn black and fall off.

Prevention methods:

• Always collect and burn fallen leaves.
• Choose resistant varieties.
• The trunk circle must be dug up with the advent of autumn.

Fighting with chemicals:

Sulfuric and phosphate preparations are used, for example, the Vertimek insecticide. When working with these drugs, be sure to wear a protective suit.

Butterfly hawthorn.

You probably noticed mummified leaves on a tree, but it probably didn’t occur to you that very harmful creatures hibernate in them. The hawthorn butterfly lays its larvae in them, which, with the onset of spring, will begin to destroy your plantings. In addition to pears, apple trees, hawthorn and even bird cherry can also suffer from it. Therefore, be sure to cut them off in winter and burn them away from the site.

Sawyer.

During the opening of the buds, this insect penetrates them and lays its eggs in each of them. After the birth of a caterpillar, it rapidly destroys the foliage that grows next to its incubator.

The offspring lives in cocoons from the web, so they must be detected and destroyed. Dig up trunk circles.

In order not to lose the harvest, you need to know all the diseases of the pear in person, so we supplemented the material with a photo and description, we hope that what you read will help you cope with any problems that arise on your site. And remember that it is better to prevent an ailment than later, it is long and difficult to treat it, so take all preventive measures, cut trees, spray them with Bordeaux liquid, fight weeds and pests, and then you can enjoy the taste of your favorite fruits.

Soot fungus - signs, methods of struggle, means of treatment, methods of diagnosis (10+)

Soot fungus - a harmless saprophyte or a dangerous pest?

The material is an explanation and addition to the article:
Plant Diseases - Overview
The plant is sick. How to define a disease? Species, types, classification of plant diseases and pests. Treatment Tips

It's no secret that closer to the middle of summer, plants begin to attack various insect pests. But, on fruit trees, plants and vegetable crops, a fungus appears, which usually looks like black soot - which is why it got the name - sooty.

If in wildlife the fungus appears only by the middle of summer, then in greenhouses and greenhouses it may appear all year round. On fruit-bearing plants, it appears quite often, thereby reducing their shelf life. In this article, we will try to understand the cause of the appearance of the fungus, and how dangerous it is for your plants.

Fungus and insects - sources of harm to your plants

Insects infect plants, thereby they lower the immunity of plants, and damage their surface. This is one of the reasons for the appearance of fungal diseases.

Fungus and the immune system of plants

Soot fungus is a well-known aspergillus fungus that is the causative agent of diseases, both in humans and in plants, and mainly affects the immune organism.

An excellent breeding ground for this type of fungus is a large number of aphids and other insects that leave behind sugary secretions. Therefore, the most effective way to get rid of and prevent the appearance of this type of fungus is to fight insects that infect plants and reduce their immunity.

The main problem of the soot fungus is that it completely clogs the pores of the plant, thereby interfering with respiration, obscures the leaves, interfering with photosynthesis, which subsequently leads to yellowing and complete death of the leaves of the plant. This type of fungus overwinters on the leaves to attack the plant again in the spring.

Fight against soot fungus

The sooty film that appears on plants can be carefully (so as not to damage the plant itself) wiped off with a soft cloth. This will keep the plants longer. However, you should regularly check the leaves of plants, and remove damaged ones in a timely manner. Often, after a simple procedure with a cloth - the fungus does not affect the plant for a long time, however, with the advent of autumn and its humidity - the problem appears again.

The main option for fighting the fungus is the destruction of insects - pests that infect areas of the plant and create the necessary environment for the reproduction of the fungus. To solve this problem, special pest control products are best suited.

The second way is to maintain the plant's immunity at a certain level with the help of special mineral supplements and provide them with optimal plant life.

The third way is the destruction of the very cause - the fungus with the help of fungicides. It is used in case of severe infection of the plant. It should be noted that in this case the fungus is NOT completely destroyed, but its reproduction is suspended!

Note! Given the toxicity of this method, we advise you to give preference to the first two methods, especially since reducing the humidity to 50% and a slight decrease in temperature allows you to get rid of the root of the problem.

One of the gentle drugs that can cope with this fungus is fitoverm.

Prevention of the fungus

As preventive measures aimed at preventing the reproduction of the fungus, we can recommend you burning old leaves and weeds, processing tree trunks. These simple methods can significantly reduce the number of pests, and therefore minimize the risk of fungal diseases infecting your plants. Also, to prevent the development of fungal diseases, it is necessary to plant plants only in healthy soils, or, if we are talking about indoor plants- only in clean, sterilized pots with good soil. In addition, the development of the fungus is promoted by excessive watering and excessive moisture of plants in pots. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that for watering plants it is necessary to use only water that has undergone preliminary purification, since rainwater and water from dubious sources that have not been tested are categorically not suitable for these purposes.

I would like to note that sooty fungi pose a real serious problem only when they settle on the sugary secretions of aphids (they are also called bear dew), with minor lesions, the damaged leaves can simply be cut off, which will not be difficult. After fighting the fungus, you can spray them two or three times with a special solution of potassium soap, which is usually sold in specialized stores. This is necessary in order to wash off the remnants of the sugary secretions of aphids. Completely affected leaves must be destroyed (not thrown away, but burned) in order to avoid further reproduction of the fungus.

This article was written to help gardeners and horticulturists, to inform them about the real danger of fungal diseases that affect plants, and to help them find ways to deal with these pests! After all, fungal diseases are dangerous, and can destroy your plants. In this article, we tried to acquaint you with the causes of the appearance of the fungus, the fight against it and prevention. We sincerely hope that this article will be useful to you and will help you solve the problem that currently worries almost every gardener and gardener!

Unfortunately, errors occur periodically in articles, they are corrected, articles are supplemented, developed, new ones are being prepared.

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In the process of growing horticultural and horticultural crops, the gardener annually encounters some diseases that negatively affect the final harvest. Among all the diversity, there is also a sooty fungus. What it is? Methods of control and prevention are presented below.

Definition

Soot fungus is one of the varieties of mold fungi that develop on the basis of nectar or natural secretions of aphids, scale insects and other pests. Under such conditions, a fungus begins to develop, the spores of which are always in the ground.

Affected leaves look like they are covered with a layer of soot, which gives the disease its name. At the same time, gradually developing, the sooty fungus can affect not only the foliage, but even the branches and trunk of the plant.

What is the danger?

Soot fungus on cucumbers or other fruit and vegetable crops is not dangerous in itself, but it clogs the pores of the leaves, thereby disrupting the respiration process, as a result of which the plant develops a lack of oxygen. Also, the fungus negatively affects the immunity of the plant, which in turn contributes to its death. If you do not solve the problem with infection in a timely manner, you can soon lose the plant.

Reasons for the appearance

They are a breeding ground for the disease and provoke its awakening. It is for this reason that experienced gardeners recommend fighting not only soot fungus, but also pests that form a nutrient-rich development environment for it.

Development of the disease

Since the plant's metabolism, respiration and photosynthesis are disturbed due to damage, it soon dries up and dies, especially for annual crops.

Treatment

In horticulture, the following methods are used to combat soot fungus:

• Removal of affected leaves. The procedure is effective in the early stages of the development of the disease, when there are not so many affected areas. After removal, they must be burned away from the growth of horticultural crops to prevent the spread of the disease to healthy plants.
• Spraying with Bordeaux liquid at a concentration of 1%. For this, ordinary sprayers can be used, if the treatment area is small, and garden sprayers, which are characterized by high productivity.

• Spraying with a 1% solution of copper sulphate also delays and stops the development of soot fungus on plants.
• It is impossible to cure an affected plant without destroying the pests that caused the appearance of soot fungus. For this, drugs such as Calypso, Fitover, Fitosporin are used.
• Spraying with a copper-soap mixture. To prepare it, you will need 5 g of copper sulfate, 150 g of laundry soap 72% grated on a fine grater, 10 liters of water. Everything must be mixed until the vitriol and soap are completely dissolved, and then treat the plants with a spray bottle.
• To destroy fungi in the soil, it is recommended to water the earth around the plant. hot water and then cover with foil. Using this method, you must be extremely careful, because you can easily damage the roots and trunk of the plant with hot water.
• Spraying with a solution of soda and 72% laundry soap is allowed.

Timely treatment can save garden plants from inevitable death.

Prevention measures

In order not to have to carry out treatment for soot fungus, it is necessary to engage in the prevention of diseases. For this, the following measures apply:

• Preventive spraying of plants with "Fitosporin", "Calypso" and other antifungal drugs. It is usually carried out in the spring, when the first leaves open, and also in the middle of summer, when the chances of infection by the fungus are highest.

• To prevent the spread of the disease, it is necessary to cut off infected leaves in a timely manner and burn them away from fruit and vegetable crops.
• In autumn, before planting plants, it is possible to treat the soil and garden tools with a solution of copper sulfate.
• It is recommended to change the places of growth of different crops annually, this has a positive effect not only on subsequent yields, but also reduces the risks of many diseases, including soot fungus.
• To prevent the development of fungal diseases, it is important to prevent waterlogging of the soil, as well as to thin out too dense tree crowns.

Sooty fungus affects not only garden plants, but also indoor plants, so when buying a new flowerpot, you must place it in a two-week quarantine in another room. This is necessary in case the plant is affected by diseases that can be transmitted to healthy flowers.

It also prevents the development of many diseases, including fungal ones, by frequent inspection of the condition of plants. This helps to identify the problem in a timely manner and solve it at the initial stage of development.

In the garden, it is necessary to carefully remove the weeds that grow between the beds, as they can cause pests.

With small niello lesions, it is sometimes enough to remove blackened leaves or simply wash off the soot.

Variety selection

In order not to have to take emergency measures to combat soot fungus, it is recommended to pay attention to crop varieties that are resistant to fungal diseases:

• Pears: “early ripening from Michurinsk”, “allegro”, “morning freshness”, “hera”, “Yakovlevskaya”.
• Cherries: “chocolate girl”, “Turgenevka”, “minx”, “novella”, “toy”.
• Apple trees: "cypress", "lungwort", "aphrodite", "sun", "Antonovka".
• Tomatoes: "resonance", "dwarf", "Perseus", "orange miracle", "Tatiana".

• Peaches: Volcano T-1, Harbinger, Royal Glory, Sweet Ring, Fidelia.
• Grapes: "Victoria", "White Delight", "Arcadia", "Laura", "Cardinal".
• Strawberries: "torpedo", "Queen Elizabeth II", "honet", "Tsarskoye Selo".
• Potatoes: Bronitsky, Alena, Snow White, Redus, Temp.
• Black currant: "gulliver", "lazy", "dashkovskaya", "centaur", "sweetheart".
• Red currant: "asya", "valentinovka", "pink nutmeg", "memorable", "cascade", "generous".
• Gooseberries: “non-slukhovsky”, “malachite”, “spring”, “isabella”, “Russian red”, “Russian yellow”, “cossack”.
• Cucumbers: “competitor”, “delicacy”, “Nezhinsky”, “son of the regiment”, “whim”, “bunny”, “tanya”.

If you purchase varieties of fruit and vegetable crops that are resistant to fungal diseases, you can prevent the development of soot fungus on plants.

Conclusion

Soot fungus is a rather dangerous disease for plants, as it greatly complicates their normal life. Despite the fact that the control measures are quite simple, it can be difficult to cure the plant due to the fact that fungal diseases spread very quickly.