Before discussing the collection and storage of pepper, it should be clarified which particular culture will be discussed. Our gardeners grow two types of pepper - sweet and bitter. Their agricultural technology is similar in many respects, but there are differences, especially with regard to harvesting.

Sweet pepper (syn. Bulgarian, capsicum)

The maximum amount of vitamins and other nutrients is found in fully ripened peppers. But everyone knows that the ripe fruits of sweet varieties are stored very poorly - they have to be immediately eaten or processed. Therefore, it is recommended to collect not yet fully ripened pods that are in the phase of so-called technical ripeness.

The state of technical ripeness usually occurs 2-2.5 months after germination. At this time, the fruits already reach the size characteristic of a particular variety, but do not yet have the proper color. Terms of technical maturation are individual for different varieties and should be indicated on the seed bags.

Peppers that have reached technical ripeness can lie for up to two months or even more. At this time, they gradually ripen without losing their nutritional and commercial qualities.

To move from one phase of ripeness to another, that is, from technical to biological, the pods need from several days to two and a half weeks. The duration of the process depends on many factors, but, first of all, on the ambient temperature. The higher it is, the faster the ripening. Therefore, in order to store pepper for a long time, it is necessary to provide it with 7 to 10 ° C during the ripening period, and about zero after its completion.

The onset of biological ripeness of peppers will be indicated by a change in their color - it becomes brighter, the same as the fruits of this variety should have. Another sign is a characteristic crackle that occurs when pressed. Immature pods do not have it.

Usually the collection of peppers is carried out selectively, once or twice a week, as they are ready. Total harvesting is carried out only with the threat of frost, which this crop does not tolerate at all. The calendar dates for the start of harvesting largely depend on where the plants are grown - in a greenhouse, greenhouse or open field.

Cut off the finished fruits should be extremely careful, with the stalk, so as not to damage the very fragile twigs. It is best to use a special pruner or scissors for this purpose.

To store sweet peppers, it is necessary to select healthy fruits that do not have damage. The easiest way to do this is to spread the pods in a thin layer in some cool and well-ventilated area, such as a basement. After about a week, sick and weakened specimens will definitely manifest themselves - they will begin to rot.

Healthy peppers for disinfection are recommended to be treated with copper sulfate - just dip in a one percent solution and then dry directly in the air. It is most convenient to store them in boxes with a capacity of not more than 10 kg, which can be either wooden or made of other materials. The walls and bottom can be lined with wrapping paper, or you can wrap each pod individually in it.

If the temperature in the basement does not exceed 10 ° C, and the humidity is between 90 and 95%, the fruits will ripen within a month. Then you should lower the temperature to zero degrees - this will extend the storage for another two months.

If there is enough space in the basement, you can store peppers directly on the stems. To do this, the selected bushes with fruits are pre-sprayed with a one percent solution of vitriol, pulled out along with the roots and hung upside down.

Peppers can also be stored in the refrigerator. To do this, they are placed in plastic bags with small holes for air access. It should be borne in mind that red varieties last longer than green ones.

Hot pepper (syn. hot, red, chili)

Otherwise, bitter peppers are harvested and stored. They should be harvested only after reaching full maturity, when the pods acquire their true color - they turn red, orange or yellow.

Hot peppers are stored in a completely different way than their sweet relatives. The tissues of these varieties contain sharp and burning substances, which largely determine their specific taste. The riper the fruit, the more this bitterness, which acts as a natural preservative, is in it. Because of it, the pod is practically not subject to decay - it does not deteriorate, but gradually dries out. If not very hot and hot pepper is required, then it can be completely removed from the branch unripe.

Hot peppers are most often stored in dried form - whole pods in boxes or boxes. But you can grind them and pour them into glass jars or paper bags. Some housewives tie each fruit with a thread by the tail and connect it into a bundle. It is convenient to hang such bundles somewhere in a cool and dark place.

There is one more interesting way storage of bitter pepper - in vegetable oil. To do this, ripe, well-washed pods are placed in a glass vessel and poured with refined oil. After a couple of months, it forms a kind of fragrant tincture.

The coming September - as if not yet autumn. But it's not summer!

The days have noticeably become shorter, and the nights are colder and there is a high probability that there will be frosts at the end of the month.

At the dachas, the most ceremonial time has come. You can’t take your eyes off it - the harvest on fruit trees has ripened and it seems that there are more apples on the branches than leaves. And how many have grown up and delight us with their incomparable beauty.

September- time to collect the long-awaited harvest. Harvesting is perhaps the most enjoyable moment of the summer season. Well, unless, of course, you were not lazy in the summer and there is something to clean))) Although there is a lot of work, but what a result!

We, summer residents, are eternal optimists, and we have absolutely no time to lose heart. September worries of the gardener are, firstly, to collect the entire crop of vegetables grown with such love; secondly, to save it without loss; thirdly, prepare the garden for the next season.

September- a month of harvesting table root crops: carrots, beets, turnips, winter radishes, celery, parsley and parsnips.

We begin to harvest them from about September 15, although if the weather is dry and warm, then you should not rush to harvest, since on such autumn days the root crops still grow vigorously.

So it's time to get to work while the warm sun is shining and there are still golden pumpkins, green zucchini and other vegetables on the beds.

Caring for vegetables

In early September, while the weather is still warm, we continue to look after such vegetables as: parsnips, root celery and parsley, scorzonera, late-ripening cabbage varieties.

We remove weeds, be sure to loosen the soil after rain or watering, and also, if necessary, feed.

So that the pouring heads of cabbage do not crack, we cut off the lower leaves and slightly trim the roots. In this regard, excess moisture from the soil will no longer flow into the head. And cabbage can be stored for another 2-3 weeks on the vine, while enduring night frosts quite easily.

Brussels sprouts also need to cut off the lower yellowing leaves, for better airing.

The last time we spud late-ripening cabbage.

We continue to carry out periodic inspection of heads of cabbage and cabbage leaves. If caterpillars and slugs are found on them, we immediately remove them and destroy them.

We collect tomatoes

If the weather is warm, then we will not rush to harvest tomatoes from greenhouses, as healthy bushes can still give a good harvest.

With the arrival rainy weather and when the air temperature drops below 5 ° C, it is better to remove the tomatoes.

It is very important to clean each variety of tomatoes separately, because then you can accurately determine which variety is more resistant to the disease, and which one is stored longer.

It is best, of course, if the tomatoes fully ripen on the bush, because then all the useful substances are most fully represented in their composition.

Located on the upper brushes, small fruits can be left on for now if September promises to be warm. And if cold days and nights are still issued, then you can cover it with a film.

Tomatoes, taken while still green, are laid out in small boxes in 2-3 layers and left to ripen in a warm, dry room.

In order to speed up the ripening of fruits, it is recommended to put 1-2 ripe tomatoes in each box. This method can also be successfully applied to accelerate the ripening of peppers that were picked unripe.

Removing peppers and eggplant

Peppers remaining in the greenhouse are best harvested at the stage of technical ripeness. During this period, the fruits already have the desired size, aroma, and the color is still green or white.

By removing pepper at this stage, we can increase its yield by almost 2 times.

Try to cut off the stalk when removing the fruit so that a small tail remains.

Then we wrap the peppers in paper and store them in a cool place, but not more than six weeks.

You can also put green fruits to ripen on a sunny windowsill.

The same peppers that are fully ripe on the bush are not stored for a long time, so they must be used immediately.

When the air temperature drops to 15 degrees and below, the peppers should be completely removed, since at this temperature the pepper stops growing and it is completely pointless to keep it on the bushes. Peppers will ripen perfectly in a cool, dry place.

Eggplants are also removed slightly unripe, because it is worth being late with the harvest and the fruits become rough and bitter.

Keep in mind that eggplants cut with the stalk have a longer shelf life.

Then we put them in boxes, previously wrapped in paper. You can also sprinkle ash on top of them.

If the fruits are completely green, and the harvesting time can no longer be postponed, then we pull out the entire bush and hang it upside down in a warm room. The eggplant will definitely ripen.

Potato

If you haven't dug up potatoes yet in August, then I advise you to do it in early September, choosing a dry and sunny day.

After all, it is necessary to dry the tubers well before storing them, otherwise our potatoes may simply rot, which is very undesirable.

After drying, we sort out the potatoes, separate non-standard small tubers, as well as damaged ones.

And only after that the potatoes can be safely sent to the storage.

It is advisable to store each variety in separate boxes and bins.

And the safety and health of potatoes in storage can be improved by layering it with dry leaves of ordinary red mountain ash.

Keep the potatoes selected for seeds longer in the sun so that they turn green, while its peel becomes more durable. In the spring, such a potato will give more friendly shoots.

It's time to fill the bins

Mid-September is the time for harvesting root crops. On the one hand, it is undesirable to hurry with harvesting, since at low positive temperatures, nutrients are intensively pumped from the leaves to the organs of the reserve and every extra day of vegetation increases the yield, and on the other hand, it is impossible to linger too much, since frosts are not far off.

By folk omens it is advisable to remove all root crops before Korniliev's day, that is, before September 26.

And such crops as cabbage, lettuce, parsley, celery can live in the garden until the Pokrov, until October 14, unless, of course, there are frosts colder than minus 4 degrees.

First of all, we remove the table beet, since it has a rather short growing season, for example, early varieties it is only 60 days, and in late-ripening - 115-120 days.

If we are late with the harvesting of beets, then the roots become coarse, very often crack, and also damaged by mice.

It is necessary to clean the beets carefully, trying not to injure, since her wounds practically do not heal and the root crop loses a lot of juice.

Do not scrape the ground from the beets, do not knock against each other, and do not cut or cut off the roots. It will be enough just to shake it off.

We also carefully cut the tops, leaving no more than 2 cm.

Sort through the resulting crop and remove all injured, diseased, as well as very small and too large root crops. It is important to know that beet roots with a diameter of 5-10 cm are most reliably stored.

Carrots of summer crops, which are intended for long-term storage, are harvested as late as possible, but still before frost.

Now she is diligently increasing her harvest and will stop growing when the average daily air temperature drops to + 4 degrees.

Carrots are very delicate root crops that require careful handling.

It is very important that the place where we are going to store it is not stuffy and humid. Otherwise, such a dangerous infection as black rot may appear on carrots.

Also keep in mind during storage that carrots do not mix well with cabbage and potatoes, so these vegetables are best stored away from each other.

After September 15, you can start harvesting root celery, root parsley, parsnips and other root crops.

I propose to adhere to the following rules when harvesting root crops:

• We clean only on a fine sunny day.
• We carefully dig up the root crops with a pitchfork so that we can freely remove them from the ground.
• We cut off the tops immediately and in no case break off, so as not to damage the head of the root crop, as this will adversely affect its keeping quality. In addition, through the resulting wounds, an infection can get inside the root crop. In root crops, we cut the tops at a distance of 0.5-1 cm from the head. For the rest, we trim flush with the head, removing growth points.
• After a short drying in the air, the root crops are laid for storage. As containers for their storage, you can use baskets or any boxes: cardboard, plank, plastic.
• In no case do not store frozen root crops for winter storage, as they will not only quickly deteriorate themselves, but also infect neighboring ones.

Cut cabbage

We harvest mid-ripening cabbage in two stages - at the beginning and at the end of September.

We start harvesting when the heads of cabbage become dense, the covering leaves brighten, and the weight of the heads of cabbage reaches 2-3 kg.

Mid-ripening cabbage is not intended for long-term storage (only 2-3 months), so it is best used for pickling.

At the end of September, we start harvesting cauliflower. We cut off its heads along with covering leaves.

If for some reason the heads have not yet formed, and frosts are expected, then you can carefully dig up the cauliflower, trying not to damage the roots, and dig it in a greenhouse or in boxes with earth in the basement.

It will continue to develop, just do not forget about watering.

Planting winter garlic

From the second half of September, it is already possible to plant winter garlic on pre-prepared beds.

This is the most optimal time, with a later planting, it may not have time to take root before frost.

For planting, we select the largest and healthiest bulbs of the new crop, carefully disassemble them into teeth and carry out pre-planting treatment by placing them in a solution of wood ash for an hour.

We make the solution as follows: pour 2 cups of ash with two liters of boiling water, then cool the resulting solution and carefully drain the light part of the solution, which we need.

You can also soak your teeth for half an hour in a warm rich pink solution of potassium permanganate.

After that, you can start planting garlic.

We make grooves in the garden after about 15-20 cm and plant large teeth in them to a depth of 4-6 cm, and smaller ones to a depth of 2-3 cm.

And we scatter small cloves-bulbs into grooves and sprinkle them with soil in a layer of 2-3 cm. If the autumn is dry, do not forget to water the beds.

Harvesting and storing pumpkin

In early September, pumpkins and zucchini are harvested and stored.

These vegetables do not tolerate cold weather, and if they fall under at least a very short drop in temperature to zero degrees or lower, then they will not be stored for a long time, they will definitely rot.

If September is warm, you can wait a little while harvesting these vegetables. So you give them the opportunity to collect sugars and strengthen the skin.

Remember that the pumpkin, in which it is impossible to push the skin with a fingernail, is stored longer. It should be firm and shiny.

In order to speed up the ripening of pumpkins, you can water them regularly with warm water, soaking the soil to a depth of 20 cm. It is best to water in the afternoon under the root in small portions.

And a week before harvesting, watering must be stopped.

To keep the fruits fresh as long as possible, cut them in the morning along with a 5-6 cm long stalk.

Autumn plantings

Autumn weather is a bit like spring weather in terms of temperature and daylight hours.

So, by “deceiving” the plants, we can get a good harvest of young greens rich in vitamins.

And if you still cover the beds with a black film, then the greens will sprout much faster.

So on the vacated beds, you can plant a little dill, parsley, and onions at the beginning of the month.

And if you have a greenhouse or a greenhouse, then plant radishes, mustard, arugula, watercress, lettuce, as they say, God himself ordered.

We dig up the vacated beds, add humus or fertilizers.

If earlier they said that they should dig deep, now there are more and more supporters of shallow digging.

The main thing is not to break the clods, since in this form they freeze better in winter and, remaining in the soil, the seeds of weeds, as well as various pests that winter in the soil, die.

On acidic soils, it is necessary to carry out liming, introducing about 30-40 kg of lime per one hundred square meters.

If you have limed the soil, then it is no longer worth adding manure or humus to it. This will be best done in the spring.

It is very good to sow the vacated areas with green manure. They are grown precisely in order to dig up the ground along with the young green manure crop and thereby fertilize the soil.

Young greens decompose rather quickly in the soil, giving them and the crops that we then plant all the nutrition they need.

It has now been proven that green manure contributes to the renewal and restoration of depleted soils. White mustard, oilseed radish, phacelia, alfalfa, rye are considered good green manure.

Until September 20, you can plant perennial onions, such as chives and spring onions, as well as winter-hardy varieties onion sets.

After planting, the beds are well watered and mulched with a layer of 8-10 cm. Humus or peat can be used as mulch.

In September, you can divide and transplant rhubarb and asparagus. These cultures recent times are becoming more and more popular with gardeners. And not by chance. Both of them are just a storehouse of vitamins.

We process the greenhouse

Greenhouse processing should be given Special attention. Indeed, thanks to comfortable conditions, the greenhouse becomes a hotbed infectious diseases plants.

It is from them that it is necessary to disinfect it so that all this evil spirits “do not attack and devour” your tender and weak seedlings in the spring.

First of all, we remove all plant residues from the greenhouse.

Then it would be good to renew the soil. To do this, we take out the top layer of soil, as it may contain pest larvae and various pathogens.

Although now many experts advise instead of such laborious work to simply shed the soil in the fall with EM preparations that contain live microorganisms.

These microorganisms in the soil actively multiply and begin an uncompromising struggle with pathogenic microbes. It is advisable to mulch the soil spilled with EM preparations (with sawdust, straw).

Mulch will serve as additional nutrition for beneficial soil microflora, and will protect it from the winter cold.

And it is equally important to disinfect the greenhouse structure itself.

For these purposes, you can use the following disinfectants: a solution of copper sulfate, lime (wooden structures), kerosene (metal structures), 2% formalin solution (glass).

After processing, the greenhouse should be closed and left for a week.

"Beds" on the windowsill

If you want to have fresh greens on your table even in winter, then you need to take care of it now.

Toward the end of the month, we dig up herbs from the garden and transplant them into containers.

Herbs that easily tolerate a change of residence include parsley, celery, basil, chives, and chard.

We cut off the above-ground part of the plants, leaving a stump of petioles about 1.5-2 cm high.

When planting, the root neck of the plant is left above the soil.

Since the forcing roots have accumulated enough nutrients that are necessary for the growth of greenery, no special soil is required.

Even simple sand will suffice. The main thing is that it is always well hydrated.

We leave the containers until mid-October on the ridges or in the greenhouse and water them.

As soon as green shoots begin to grow, they can be transferred to the house on the windowsill.

Growing greenery will not only decorate your window sill, but also a source of natural vitamins on your table.

Well, dear gardeners and gardeners, our sonorous summer has died down, all our planting unrest, the chores of caring for garden inhabitants and worries about the future harvest are already far behind.

I hope that everything is in order with him and the harvest turned out to be excellent. It remains only to competently and sensibly lay it for storage.

The quality and quantity of vegetables until spring depends on how correctly we do this.

Well, if something didn’t work out, don’t be discouraged, because you will still have time, in late autumn or winter, to “work on the mistakes”.

I would very much like, dear readers, that you share with all your successes and discoveries in this summer season.

See you, dear readers!

​Related Articles​

Pepper care in a greenhouse: watering, fertilizing, shaping

Bush formation

100 g of chopped garlic (onions) are poured into 3 liters of cold water, left for 3 hours, another 3 liters of water are added, filtered and the plants are immediately processed. Keep in mind!

Top dressing Pepper fruits are recommended to be removed when the fruit turns from green to white in color and slightly begins to turn pink or yellow. Then it's time to take it off. If harvested fully ripe, red or orange, as it should be, then the pepper plant stops the pouring and setting of other fruits and the total yield is less. Because the task of pepper is to give offspring, and not to feed us with its fruits. Therefore, the bush throws all its strength into growing this first fruit, and do not rush to give the rest. Therefore, pick off the white, slightly colored fruit as soon as they appear to stimulate the pepper to produce more and more fruit.​

varieties When growing and caring for peppers - both sweet and spicy varieties - it is necessary to ensure optimal temperature and humidity. Of course, most plants prefer milder, greenhouse conditions, but in warm climates, planting crops in open ground is also possible. The yield in this case will depend on decent care and favorable conditions. weather conditions.​

Outdoor pepper care: watering, feeding, protection

Improve pollination by spraying the plant during flowering with a solution of sugar or honey to attract pollinating insects. Reappearing stepchildren and flowers that form in the lower part of the plant before its first branching are constantly cut off. They delay the development of the upper part of the bush, on which the main formation of fruits occurs.

For better survival, the roots are dipped in a clay mash (if the seedlings were grown without picking). Is it necessary to dive sweet pepper seedlings? Many will answer: of course! However, not everyone knows that such technology is not always a boon, especially for delicate crops such as sweet peppers.​

An excess of nitrogen fertilizers can lead to the reproduction of aphids and the accumulation of large doses of nitrates in pepper fruits. And then all the work is watering and top dressing. Weeds practically do not grow in mines!​

Two weeks after planting in the ground, the first top dressing is carried out (one teaspoon with a tubercle of urea, two teaspoons with a tubercle of superphosphate per 10 liters of water, one liter for each bush). The second dressing - during the period of mass flowering: one teaspoon with a tubercle of urea, one matchbox of superphosphate and one teaspoon of potassium salt or potassium sulfate. All this is dissolved in 10 liters of water and watered 1 liter under a bush. The third top dressing is given when the fruits on the first branch have reached technical ripeness, at the rate of two teaspoons with a tubercle of superphosphate and two teaspoons of potassium salt or potassium sulfate. When it reaches the desired size and how much will be on the bush, so much

how domestic selection(Yellow Bull, Star of the East, Red Bull, Winner's Cup, Orange Bull, Golden Jubilee) and foreign (Casablanca, Denis, Gypsy, Tevere, Gemini, Flamenco and Claudio). Preference should be given to thick-walled and large-fruited varieties - after all, they are good both fresh and in blanks. An exception to this rule is the Orange variety (medium-sized, but very juicy, sweet and beautiful). Caring for pepper in a greenhouse consists in maintaining the optimum temperature, regular watering, feeding, weeding and loosening.

Harvesting, storage and processing of pepper

Remember!

A great effect is the introduction of an organomineral mixture when planting in the well (200-300 g of humus or peat, 5-10 g of superphosphate and potassium salt each). After planting is completed, the aisles are loosened with a rake to reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil.

Slugs

udec.ru

Secrets of growing bell pepper

In autumn, after harvesting a bountiful harvest, I leave all mines in place. I don’t dig anything, because under them earthworms warm and satisfying. In the spring they wake up and begin their life-giving work. I remove the stakes, take out the sleeves, level the ground with a rake. Instead of polyethylene, you can use old boards, pieces of slate, and linoleum trimmings to build mines. If the seedlings are stunted after top dressing, foliar top dressing with urea is done every morning or evening for a week at the rate of two or three teaspoons per 10 liters of water. If it is not possible to feed daily, then one or two feedings are carried out at the rate of 30 g of urea per 10 liters of water from a sprayer or from a watering can with a net. He is not eternal.

• SHELTER FROM THE HEAT AND FROM THE COLD

We recommend planting peppers. Temperature conditions. The air temperature in the greenhouse during the period from planting to full fruiting should be maintained at 21-28°C during the day and 15°C at night. Then the daytime temperature is reduced by 1-2 ° C. You can correct the situation by watering the plants abundantly, and then feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer - 10-30 g per 10 liters of water.

Pepper does not like potassium chloride. It is best to keep peppers under lutrasil all summer. In any weather, it maintains an ideal microclimate in the greenhouse, saves from heat and cold, does not allow the soil to dry out. The root system of pepper is not deep in the soil, and is very responsive to loosening. The influx of air to the roots accelerates the growth and development of plants, activates the biological activity of soil microorganisms, and improves nutrition.​

To avoid this, try growing peppers without a pick. Soak the seeds beforehand in a solution of potassium permanganate or a growth stimulator, or simply hold them for several hours in warm water. Cut off the bottom corner of plastic bags from under sour cream so that water can drain and fold the bag in half - you will get narrow "glasses". After filling them with soil, place them tightly in a box or box. Pour the soil in bags with warm water with the addition of potassium permanganate, put 1-2 seeds in each of them and sprinkle with soil in a 1 cm layer. Carefully cover the box with foil and put in a warm place where the air temperature is 25-27 degrees. leaves and damage fruits. Pollination of the soil with ground hot pepper or dry mustard (1 teaspoon per square meter) helps to fight them. In pest control, foliar fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (10 g per 10 liters of water) and ventilation of greenhouses are also good. T. V. LANDYSHEVA

Hm... As the saying goes: What you sow is what you reap - everything will be yours and as many times as you succeed))

Under the arc When caring for pepper, the greenhouse is periodically ventilated by opening doors, vents, and transoms in it. In summer, when the temperature outside rises above 30 ° C, the glass cover of the greenhouse is sprayed with a suspension of chalk or shaded with light wooden grates. Small dark green leaves indicate a supersaturation with potassium.

Top dressing from a barrel

• WARM SHOWER

It gets colder - cover Pepper roots do not like direct sunlight. When the plants bloom, you need to close the crowns. You should not plant sweet and hot peppers nearby, as they will all become bitter due to cross-pollination. To prevent the earth from drying out, check the soil moisture every day, monitor the condition of the crops. As a rule, shoots usually appear after 7-10 days. As soon as this happens, move the box to a bright, warm place and remove the film immediately. Five days after the emergence of seedlings, they must be fed with mineral fertilizers or peat oxidate. In the future, this should be done every 10 days. Water the seedlings as needed with warm, settled water. When the peppers grow up, the bags should be unfolded completely and the soil should be added to them.

• MULCHING

Stepchildren went into action

• STEPING - HARVEST INCREASE

Until they run out on the bush ..

From a thick wire, which must first be deepened a little, and then, as the seedlings grow, lift up. In early spring, immediately cover the plants with a film or covering material, and when it is established warm weather, remove the film, and the covering material can not be removed until the end of the gardening season. Peppers are watered 2-3 times a week under the root. Pepper is moisture-loving, 1-2 liters of water is consumed per plant. Plants spud with moist soil. After the earth dries, the aisles are loosened. Sparing no water, water the peppers and feed them with ammophos - 15 - 20 g per 10 liters of water.

• HARVESTING

Closer to autumn, pepper plants should be protected from the first frosts.

By the time of transplanting to a permanent place, the seedlings are easily taken out of the bags and, together with a clod of soil, are transferred to the holes. This method allows you to sow seeds for seedlings not in February, as usual, but in mid-March.

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harvesting sweet peppers. How many times do you need to pick the fruits of sweet pepper?

Alexei

Folk way

Lydia

"Lunch" for pepper

Alyonushka

To test the pepper for ripeness. you need to squeeze the fruit in the palm of your hand. if it crackles. then ready.​

forget-me-not

Peppers grow well right under the covering material, stretched in the form of an awning, which allows them to "escape" both from the night, cold dews, and from the scorching sun. Especially such a shelter for peppers can be useful to those who come to the country only for the weekend. In autumn, at night temperatures below 10 ° C, it is

Georg1945 Egorych

Fertilizer and top dressing.

An excess of calcium is indicated by poorly developing apical buds.

During fruiting, 1 bucket of mullein and 1 glass of urea are poured into a 100-liter barrel, poured with water, mixed well and infused for 4-5 days. Pepper is watered at the rate of 5 liters per 1 m2.

covering material
Feeding pepper is carried out twice a month. 10-20 g of potassium chloride, 20-30 g of ammonium nitrate and 30-40 g of superphosphate are diluted per 10 liters of water. After feeding the pepper in the greenhouse, the soil is watered with clean water, otherwise the leaves can be burned. Instead of mineral fertilizers, plants are sometimes fed with organic matter: a solution of slurry or bird droppings with the addition of 150-200 g of wood ash per 10 liters of solution.

They do not doze off and are activated during flowering and at high humidity in the greenhouse. fight

It best protects plants from harmful temperature changes. In places where night frosts are not uncommon at the end of summer, it will not be superfluous to cover the peppers at night with a thin non-woven material. At the end of September, peppers sometimes withstand, in this way, frosts down to -4 ° C.
Experienced gardeners recommend watering peppers from 9 am to 11 am. Frequent and prolonged drying of the soil, as well as its strong waterlogging, should not be allowed, since the plant reacts both to the dryness of the soil and to its waterlogging.
helper plants
It is difficult with them, but necessary so as not to lose the entire crop.

Watering


I fed it with micronutrient fertilizers and a growth stimulator, my husband hung a fluorescent lamp over them, and the peppers came to life. A few days later stepchildren appeared on each bush. I let them grow up to 10 centimeters, then cut them off and put them in water. After a week and a half, roots appeared. While they were growing up, I prepared "apartments" for them - seedling pots. I transplanted the "juveniles" into the ground, covered them with plastic bags to keep them warmer. In April-May, the bags were removed for the day. I gradually fed it with mineral fertilizers, and when the snow melted in the country house and it became possible to get to a pile of mullein, I brought it home a little, poured it with a solution as well.

Pepper bed
Starting from the middle of summer (quite large peppers are already hanging on the bushes), feed the plants once every two weeks with a solution of banana skins and nettles with the addition of an extract from the ashes. It is also good to use a drug based on
Pollination.

Aphid


I usually water peppers from a watering can once every 10 days at the rate of 10 liters per 1 square meter. I take warm water for irrigation - at least 20-25 degrees. And if you overmoisten the soil, you won’t have to wait long for pepper diseases. Powdery mildew will appear, and the death of plants is inevitable. However, the lack of moisture leads to the fall of the ovary. Remember this!​

You should have seen what a beautiful seedling I had by the time it was planted in the ground! And she gave more harvest than usual.
Pepper especially needs phosphorus at the beginning of the growing season, when the underdeveloped root system of the plant cannot ensure its timely supply from the soil. I apply superphosphate as the main fertilizer during autumn or early spring digging up the soil, to a depth of 5-15 cm, 30-45 g / sq. m. Elevated soil temperature on the ridges improves the solubility of phosphates. True, superphosphate should be applied only on soils poor in phosphorus.
Pepper succeeds in sunny beds, lags behind in growth in the shade, does not give a crop.
biohumus

During the flowering period, peppers are shaken daily to ensure better pollination.


Pepper in the "sleeve"

L.V. ZUEVA
But pepper needs potassium from tying until the end of fruit ripening.

Light touch

Potassium deficiency? The lower leaves are yellow, the edges dry out, but remain green near the veins. Shoots stop growing, spots appear on the fruits.
Picking fruits


Nettle solution
In order to grow pepper as a vertical crop, a bush begins to form in the first fork. When molding, two shoots are left in the first branch, which will be central. Subsequently, two shoots are left in each of the nodes: vertical (central) and external additional. In this way, the bush is formed up to a height of 1-1.2 m.

It also sucks the juice from pepper leaves. The method of struggle is spraying with the Iskra-Bio preparation when pests appear before fruiting. In any phase of pepper development, treatment with an infusion of garlic or onion and dandelion leaves is also effective (one glass of finely chopped garlic or onion and dandelion leaves is diluted in 10 liters of water, 2 tablespoons of liquid soap are added, the plants are filtered and sprayed).


There is an unusual way to get more squat and strong seedlings of peppers. It was demonstrated by graduates of the Hadlow Agricultural College at the Chelsea flower show in the UK.​

The first fruits of pepper are not removed until they reach technical ripeness. Excessive injury to the bush affects its fruiting. The collection of immature fruits, the stalks of which do not come off well (the ripe fruit is easily removed), can damage the stem or part of it, on which by this time a lot of ovaries have formed that can grow into large fleshy fruits in 2-3 weeks.

• The beds are made during spring digging. On heavy, cold soils, they must be high in order to warm up well and provide water and air conditions.
• You need to cook as follows: chop the nettle stalks and put them in a 20-liter saucepan, put frozen (or dried) banana skins there. Fill the pot about 1/3 full with this mixture. Fill with warm or cold water(not hot!) About 2/3 of the volume and put in a warm place for fermentation. "Mash" is ready when the mass begins to "boil" with a specific smell. Filter the resulting infusion and use the calculation: for a bucket of water - 1 liter of "mash".

Care for peppers in the open field consists of watering, loosening the soil, top dressing and frost protection.
100 g of chopped garlic (onion) is poured into 3 liters of cold water, left for 3 hours, another 3 liters of water are added, filtered and the plants are immediately processed.

Keep in mind!

In the film sleeve, in the corners, I insert four pegs, three of which are five or six centimeters longer than the sleeve, and the fourth is very large - a meter high. The sleeve looks like a square. I deepen it by 6-7 cm and fix it with pegs in the prepared place. I fill the hole with fertile soil, seasoned with humus and fertilizer, but not to the top so that the water does not roll off during irrigation. From above it is desirable to put a layer of needles, sawdust. It turns out like a mine for planting vegetables. I plant two roots of pepper seedlings grown in advance in one - together they grow together more amicably. I tie bushes to the longest peg. I place mines one after another at a distance of 15-20 cm, between rows - 30 cm.

Top dressing

Pepper pests

It turned out that if you gently run a cardboard or hand back and forth over the plants (no more than 20 times a day), the plants will grow squat and strong. The method is called "light touch". Its "authors" believe that when irritated by touch, ethylene gas is released from the leaves, which stops the growth of plants. This method is effective for seedlings of flowers and vegetables.​

From the moment of spring tillage to planting seedlings in the ground, sometimes a month or more passes. Therefore, the earth is maintained in a loose and weed-free state, after each rain the top layer is loosened with a rake to prevent the formation of a crust and the evaporation of moisture. Along the way, germinated weeds are also destroyed. If there is no rain, then loosening is carried out as soon as weed shoots appear.
​In the same bucket, add 1 liter

An excess of nitrogen fertilizers can lead to the reproduction of aphids and the accumulation of large doses of nitrates in pepper fruits.
And then all the work - watering and top dressing. Weeds practically do not grow in mines!​
Two weeks after planting in the ground, the first top dressing is carried out (one teaspoon with a tubercle of urea, two teaspoons with a tubercle of superphosphate per 10 liters of water, one liter for each bush). The second top dressing - during the period of mass flowering: one teaspoon with a tubercle of urea, one matchbox of superphosphate and one teaspoon of potassium salt or potassium sulfate. All this is dissolved in 10 liters of water and watered 1 liter under a bush. The third top dressing is given when the fruits on the first branch have reached technical ripeness, at the rate of two teaspoons with a tubercle of superphosphate and two teaspoons of potassium salt or potassium sulfate.

Divide and conquer!
At the first signs of starvation, dilute 0.8 g of ammophos and 2.8 g of potassium nitrate in 1 liter of water and water the plants.

What's going on, "sick"?

ash extractor

The first time the pepper is watered immediately after planting. The second time - in 5-6 days. In the future, it is watered every 7-10 days. First, 1-1.5 liters of water are spent per plant, then the rate is increased to 1.5-2 liters. 2-3 weeks before the last harvest, watering is stopped.

Indeed, after this procedure, the growth of seedlings slows down - the roots of sweet pepper are very sensitive to the slightest mechanical influences.

Slugs

In autumn, after harvesting a bountiful harvest, I leave all mines in place. I don’t dig anything, because under them the earthworms are warm and satisfying. In the spring they wake up and begin their life-giving work. I remove the stakes, take out the sleeves, level the ground with a rake. Instead of polyethylene, you can use old boards, pieces of slate, and linoleum trimmings to build mines.

If the seedlings are stunted after top dressing, foliar top dressing with urea is done every morning or evening for a week at the rate of two to three teaspoons per 10 liters of water. If it is not possible to feed daily, then one or two feedings are carried out at the rate of 30 g of urea per 10 liters of water from a sprayer or from a watering can with a net.

A lot is also bad

​: stir in 1 bucket of boiling water liter jar ash (or ashes). If you take cold water, the tincture will be ready in 2-3 days.​

Loosening.

To avoid this, try growing peppers without a pick. Soak the seeds beforehand in a solution of potassium permanganate or a growth stimulator, or simply hold them for several hours in warm water. Cut off the bottom corner of plastic bags from under sour cream so that water can drain and fold the bag in half - you get narrow "cups". After filling them with soil, place them tightly in a box or box. Pour the soil in bags with warm water with the addition of potassium permanganate, spread 1-2 seeds into each of them and sprinkle with soil in a 1 cm layer. Carefully cover the box with foil and place in a warm place where the air temperature is 25-27 degrees.

Slugs eat the leaves and damage the fruit. Pollination of the soil with ground hot pepper or dry mustard (1 teaspoon per square meter) helps to fight them. In pest control, foliar fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (10 g per 10 liters of water) and ventilation of greenhouses are also good.

T. V. LANDYSHEVA

In order for the fruits to be better tied up, 2 g of superphosphate is added to each top dressing (under each root). How to increase the yield?

You don't have to dive

Such dressings very effectively increase productivity - bell peppers are poured right before our eyes. A good harvest can be obtained without mineral fertilizers, and this is good for health. If there are no other options, use mineral fertilizers, only in extremely small doses. For example, calcium nitrate, when the first signs of vertex rot appear on the fruits - this measure will avoid crop loss.

The soil is loosened after each rain and watering until the earth begins to dry out and crust.

So that the earth does not dry out, check the soil moisture every day, monitor the condition of the crops. As a rule, shoots usually appear after 7-10 days. As soon as this happens, move the box to a bright, warm place and remove the film immediately. Five days after the emergence of seedlings, they must be fed with mineral fertilizers or peat oxidate. In the future, this should be done every 10 days. Water the seedlings as needed with warm, settled water. When the peppers grow up, the bags should be unfolded completely and the soil should be added to them.

Wilting disease is manifested by leaf drop and is usually caused by fungi. In this case, the diseased plant is removed and burned.

Stepchildren went into action

Pepper gives more yield if it is fed with urea, and not with mullein.

Let's get rid of dampness

For this:
Yu.P. ANANEV, Samara

The correct landing technique is as follows. First, using a cord or marker, mark the ribbons. Then, holes 10-12 cm deep are made along each row every 15-30 cm with a planting scoop or hoe. Each hole is watered at the rate of 0.5-1 l of water per plant. Potted or potless seedlings are planted in the resulting "dirt", covered with soil and compacted. From above, around the planted seedlings, peat or dry soil is poured with a layer of 3-4 cm. This loose layer serves as a mulch that will prevent moisture from evaporating from the hole and the lower soil horizon. After planting is completed, it is impossible to water the mulch layer - in order to avoid the formation of a soil crust.​

Bell peppers are very fond of a warm, light shower from a watering can (preferably in the evening, in hot weather). Once a week, arrange such a shower with the addition of biohumus, which speeds up the filling of fruits and protects them from harmful insects.

Fertilizer and top dressing.

By the time of transplanting to a permanent place, the seedlings are easily taken out of the bags and, together with a clod of soil, are transferred to the holes. This method allows you to sow seeds for seedlings not in February, as usual, but in mid-March.

Folk way

I'll tell you how I got the hang of getting strong seedlings of peppers without much hassle.

"Lunch" for pepper

Sweet pepper. Tips for care and cultivation

Sick plants need a shower from a solution with "Kemira Combi" or "Kemira Lux" (1 g per 1 liter of water).

Remove the central flower growing from the first branching of the pepper bush;

Bush formation
"Lower" watering into the wells, the creation of a mulching layer around the plant ensures rapid survival of seedlings, does not require subsequent daily watering, which inevitably happens with "upper" watering.
Water for irrigation
Peppers are fed 3-4 times during the growing season, starting from the 10-15th day after planting the seedlings. When top dressing peppers in open ground, use a solution of slurry (4-5 parts of water for 1 part of fertilizer) or bird droppings (1 part of fertilizer for 12-15 parts of water). In addition, 150-200 g of wood ash, 40-60 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium chloride are added to 10 liters of solution. When carrying out mineral dressing, in addition to phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, ammonium nitrate is added under pepper (15-20 g per 10 l of fertilizer solution).
Tamara Georgievna VASILEVSKAYA, Brest region, Ivatsevichi district
For 10 liters of water, add 1 glass of wood ash and tobacco dust, insist for a day and filter well, add 2 tbsp. l. liquid soap and spray. Especially carefully - the inner surface of the leaves.
Released in a certain year early autumn. It's freezing outside - and my peppers are still full of peppers. I chose the strongest plants and transplanted them into pots. I left the largest peppers on the bushes, and pinched off the small ones and the flowers. And for some time I had fresh bell peppers for salads, although not as juicy as from a real garden.
I grow peppers in the garden. I noticed: growing this crop on raised beds 15-25 cm high and 70-90 cm wide in their upper part gives a high effect. Seedlings take root better on them, ripening is accelerated by 7-10 days, the yield at the first harvest is 30-50% more than on a flat surface.​
Bright, beautiful, healthy, tastes excellent sweet pepper - the champion among vegetables in vitamin C content.
It happens that peppers grow well, but there are few ovaries, small dark green leaves appear, apical buds develop poorly. The reason is often that you have overfed the plants. Let's see what?
Improve pollination by spraying the plant during flowering with a solution of sugar or honey to attract pollinating insects.
Reappearing stepchildren and flowers that form in the lower part of the plant before its first branching are constantly cut off. They delay the development of the upper part of the bush, on which the main formation of fruits occurs.
For better survival, the roots are dipped in a clay mash (if the seedlings were grown without picking).
It must be strictly warm (not lower than the ambient temperature) - if the water is cold, the development and growth of peppers will stop for a while.
Frost protection.
If you dream of a good harvest of peppers, I advise you not to remove the film from the plants in the garden at all. But on one condition - air the peppers daily at the hottest time of the day.
Experienced gardeners know what peppers need to be healthy.
When I noticed that the bushes began to shed their leaves, slowed down in development (in December-January), let them "sleep", watered infrequently - just so as not to dry out. And the numbers of February 15-17 decided to wake them up.

And, of course, I make sure to feed my favorite culture.
By the way, for the first time this vitamin was isolated from pepper fruits. Pepper - comes from the tropics, but even in our climatic conditions it feels at home thanks to timely and proper care.
If peppers build up a powerful leaf mass, and there are few ovaries, this indicates an excess of nitrogen.
Remember!
Pinching, that is, pinching the top and removing extra flowers on peppers of such varieties as New Gogoshary, Golden Anniversary, Golden Medal, Gift of Moldova, is done as soon as 7-10 fruits are tied, and on Kolobok - 12-15. Then each pepper will receive in full the "due" heat, light, nutrients. If you leave the entire ovary, then almost 80 percent of it will go to waste in the fall, since the fruits will not be able to ripen. Extra branches are also removed - they also take a lot of nutrition from the plant.

A great effect is the introduction of an organomineral mixture when planting in the well (200-300 g of humus or peat, 5-10 g of superphosphate and potassium salt each). After planting is completed, the aisles are loosened with a rake to reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil.
Be sure to mulch the soil under the plants, the main material is cut grass and shavings, the mulch retains moisture well on long time. In turn, this allows the root system of peppers to freely absorb the necessary substances and trace elements from moist loose earth, and also attracts worms. But be careful -
Heat-loving peppers are protected from frost with the help of temporary shelters-tents made of boards, cardboard, burlap, matting, roofing felt or other improvised materials. Portable film shelters are also popular. In severe frosts, the film is additionally covered with burlap or rags. Apply smoke and sprinkling.
At the same time, the soil in the beds must be loosened shallowly - no more than 5 cm, which will provide air access to the root system.
And for those who are taking their first steps in gardening, these tips, we hope, will help to figure out why plants are moping.

I fed it with micronutrient fertilizers and a growth stimulator, my husband hung a fluorescent lamp over them, and the peppers came to life. A few days later stepchildren appeared on each bush. I let them grow up to 10 centimeters, then cut them off and put them in water. After a week and a half, roots appeared. While they were growing up, I prepared "apartments" for them - seedling pots. I transplanted the "juveniles" into the ground, covered them with plastic bags to keep them warmer. In April-May, the bags were removed for the day. I gradually fed it with mineral fertilizers, and when the snow melted in the country house and it became possible to get to a pile of mullein, I brought it home a little, poured it with a solution as well.
In pepper, the greatest need for nitrogen is manifested before flowering and during mass ripening of fruits. Its deficiency is indicated by the pale green color of the upper leaves, yellowing and dying of the lower ones. I bring in two or three days before planting seedlings (or for spring digging) at 10-20 g per square meter. m of ammonium nitrate. I spend the first dressing three to four weeks after planting, the second - after the second or third harvest, before watering - 10-15 g / sq. m. Fertilizers can be dissolved in irrigation water. But you can not exceed the norm, since pepper accumulates excess fertilizer in the fruits in the form of nitrates.
Pepper bed
You can correct the situation by watering the plants abundantly, and then feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer - 10-30 g per 10 liters of water.
Pepper does not like potassium chloride.
It is best to keep peppers under lutrasil all summer. In any weather, it maintains an ideal microclimate in the greenhouse, saves from heat and cold, and does not allow the soil to dry out.
The root system of pepper is located shallow in the soil, and is very responsive to loosening. The influx of air to the roots accelerates the growth and development of plants, activates the biological activity of soil microorganisms, and improves nutrition.​
mulch
Bush formation.

I usually water peppers from a watering can once every 10 days at the rate of 10 liters per 1 square meter. I take warm water for irrigation - at least 20-25 degrees. And if you overmoisten the soil, you won’t have to wait long for pepper diseases. Powdery mildew will appear, and the death of plants is inevitable. However, the lack of moisture leads to the fall of the ovary. Remember this!​
If grown peppers are deficient in nitrogen, then the leaves turn pale, then turn yellow from the main vein to the edges and fall off. The fruits are thin-walled, curved in the form of a crescent.
You should have seen what a beautiful seedling I had by the time it was planted in the ground! And she gave more harvest than usual.
Pepper especially needs phosphorus at the beginning of the growing season, when the underdeveloped root system of the plant cannot ensure its timely supply from the soil. I apply superphosphate as the main fertilizer during autumn or early spring digging up the soil, to a depth of 5-15 cm, 30-45 g / sq. m. Elevated soil temperature on the ridges improves the solubility of phosphates. True, superphosphate should be applied only on soils poor in phosphorus.

Pepper succeeds in sunny beds, lags behind in growth in the shade, does not give a crop.
Small leaves of a dark green color indicate a supersaturation with potassium.
Top dressing from a barrel
It gets cold - cover

Pepper roots do not like direct sunlight. When the plants bloom, you need to close the crowns. Do not plant sweet and hot peppers side by side, as they will all become bitter due to cross-pollination.
You can already have a well-heated earth, otherwise the roots begin to rot, and the plant dies.
During the growing season, pepper shoots that are too long are shortened. All extra branches shading the crown of the bush are cut out. It is mandatory to remove all shoots located below the main fork of the stem, as well as branches growing inside the crown. Pruning is carried out once a week, after harvesting the fruit.
Oleg Fedorovich KRASNOV, Mogilev
Plants must be fed with slurry diluted with water 1:5, or ammonium nitrate (15-20 g per 10 liters of water).
L.V. ZUEVA

But pepper needs potassium from tying until the end of fruit ripening.

The best predecessors for pepper are cucumber, peas, beans, beans, cabbage, table root vegetables. Do not place pepper after potatoes and tomatoes. Soil cultivation for growing pepper begins in the fall, immediately after harvesting the previous crop. The site is freed from plant residues, manure or compost is applied at the rate of one bucket per square meter. m with the addition of 20-30 g of superphosphate. They dig to a depth of 20-25 cm.
Spare no water, pour over the peppers and feed them with ammophos - 15 - 20 g per 10 liters of water.
During flowering, 6-7 kg of chopped nettle, plantain leaves, dandelion, wood lice, coltsfoot, 10 liters of mullein and a glass of wood ash are added to a 100-liter barrel. Fill to the top with water, mix and infuse for 7-10 days. Feed at the rate of 1 liter under a bush.
Closer to autumn, pepper plants should be protected from the first frosts.
Pepper does not tolerate frost on the soil. He does not tolerate high level groundwater and even short-term flooding. The soil into which the seedlings are transplanted must be structurally better than that in which seedlings grow.

Once a week, inspect the bushes and remove all regrown stepchildren, as well as flowers below the fork. As a result, pepper bushes are well ventilated, illuminated, receive more nutrition, and, accordingly, produce more fruits.

Peppers are harvested in a state of technical ripeness (the fruit has already formed, but has not reached the color and size characteristic of this variety), as well as in a state of biological ripeness (the fruit fully corresponds to its varietal characteristics). Usually 20-30 days pass between technical and biological ripeness. Ripe fruits crackle when touched. The first time the pepper crop is harvested in mid-August and is carried out every 6-8 days until frost. Before frosts, all fruits are removed from the bush. They are sorted according to the degree of ripeness and, if necessary, laid for ripening. Hot peppers are harvested when the fruits become dry and red. Do not pick peppers with your hands, as you can damage the fruit or stalk, which will lead to rotting of the pod. Therefore, the stalks are cut with a knife.
Light touch
Potassium deficiency? The lower leaves are yellow, the edges dry out, but remain green near the veins. Shoots stop growing, spots appear on the fruits.
Picking fruits
Now about watering. Before the start of fruit formation, I water at the rate of two liters of water per day per 1 sq. m, during the period of mass fruit formation - 4-6 liters per sq. m. In a wet year, pepper requires only 3-4 waterings, in an average year - 5-7, in a dry year - 8-12. In general, during the growing season, the plant needs 400-550 liters of water per 1 sq. m. Depending on the conditions of the year, it is provided with precipitation by 20-60%, moisture reserves in the soil - by two or three, everything else - by irrigation. In a dry spring, I do preplant watering (20-30 liters per sq. M). Two days after planting the seedlings, for its better survival, I carry out refreshing watering - 10-15 liters per square meter. m, if there was a preplant, or 20-25 liters per sq. m, if there was none.
In the spring, as soon as the soil ripens and stops smearing, they start digging. If organic fertilizers have not been applied since autumn, then the soil is fertilized (a glass of ash per bucket of humus). They dig to a shallower depth than in autumn, carefully choosing weeds and pest larvae (beetles, wireworms, etc.).

An excess of calcium is indicated by poorly developing apical buds.

During fruiting, 1 bucket of mullein and 1 glass of urea are poured into a 100-liter barrel, poured with water, mixed well and infused for 4-5 days. Pepper is watered at the rate of 5 liters per 1 m2.
Tents made of wooden blocks, cardboard, matting, burlap, roofing material and other materials are reliable protection. Bushes cover with tents in the evening and open in the morning when it gets warmer.
By the time of transplanting into open ground, the bushes should be 25-30 cm high. The pepper bush develops better if it is not allowed to plant too deep. The root system should be as close to the ground as possible.
Try to root
Like most vegetables, pepper has a low keeping quality, and if stored poorly, the fruits rot in two days. Under the right conditions, peppers can be stored even longer than tomatoes and eggplant. Thin-walled peppers are best stored in the refrigerator. In fruits, cut off part of the stalk, leaving a small tip. There should be no signs of disease, damage, cracks or dents on the fruits.

There is an unusual way to get more squat and strong seedlings of peppers. It was demonstrated by graduates of the Hadlow Agricultural College at the Chelsea flower show in the UK.​

Feed the peppers with potassium sulfate (10-15 g per 10 liters of water). And until they recover, do not apply fertilizers containing calcium and magnesium.

• The first fruits of pepper are not removed until they reach technical ripeness. Excessive injury to the bush affects its fruiting. The collection of immature fruits, the stalks of which do not come off well (the ripe fruit is easily removed), can damage the stem or part of it, on which by this time a lot of ovaries have formed that can grow into large fleshy fruits in 2-3 weeks.
• In August, when the bulk of the fruit is formed, pepper especially needs water. Moisture deficiency sharply reduces the yield. Depending on the rainfall, I water the pepper every 8-12 days. On hot days (but not on cold windy days!) nice results gives evening sprinkling of 10-15 liters per square meter. m. I stop watering the pepper 10-15 days before the last harvest.

The beds are made during spring digging. On heavy, cold soils, they must be high in order to warm up well and provide water and air conditions.
Pour the soil in which the peppers grow with water and feed the plants: for 10 liters of water, 10-12 g of ammonium nitrate and 15-20 g of potassium sulfate.

They do not doze off and are activated during flowering and at high humidity in the greenhouse. fight

During frosts and prolonged cooling, temporary film shelters are used, as well as smoke and sprinkling. The material for the smoke heaps is selected so that it produces thick smoke. Sprinkling is especially effective if the installation provides a fine spray.​

Near each bush put low pegs. As it develops and forms a large number of fruits, it is tied up. The soil around the bush is regularly loosened. Pepper does not like hilling.

Pepper pests

stepchildren
Peppers are stored in plastic bags, or the fruits are put in boxes and sprinkled with sawdust. Fruits are stored up to 2 months. Ripe peppers are kept at a temperature of 1-2 ° C, unripe - at 10-12 ° C.

It turned out that if you gently run a cardboard or hand back and forth over the plants (no more than 20 times a day), the plants will grow squat and strong. The method is called "light touch". Its "authors" believe that when irritated by touch, ethylene gas is released from the leaves, which stops the growth of plants. This method is effective for seedlings of flowers and vegetables.​
With a deficiency of phosphorus, the leaves acquire a bluish-green hue, and then, together with the stems and petioles, become purple-red. After the leaves curl, the stem becomes thinner, flowering is delayed, and, accordingly, the harvest, and the roots are covered with a rusty coating.

The main fruit formation occurs from the end of July - the beginning of August. Therefore, properly and timely prepare the plant for mass fruiting. August is the most favorable month for mass fruit formation. From the first fruits of pepper, which were formed back in June-July, high-quality seeds are obtained for future sowing. Pepper can not be removed, if possible until October 15th. However, pepper does not tolerate frosts on the soil.
I start watering on the beds 7-10 days earlier than on a flat surface, since here the evaporating surface of the soil is larger and the plants are more powerful.

It is difficult with them, but necessary so as not to lose the entire crop.
In some years, peppers bear fruit until October. It tolerates cold weather much better than a tomato.
Watering

peppers and eggplant. In two weeks, stepchildren, covered with cut bottles to create a microclimate, take root perfectly. Perhaps someone will want to plant then a rooted stepson at home, on a balcony or on a window, in a separate pot.
Fruits are harvested for seeds in the phase of full biological ripeness. They are left for 3-4 weeks, after which they are cut around the calyx and the stalk with seeds is taken out. Within 3-4 days it is kept at a temperature of 25-30°C, and then the seeds are separated. They are folded into a paper bag and cleaned in a cool, dry place. Pepper seeds are stored for 5-6 years.

What's going on, "sick"?

All malformed ovaries are removed so as not to delay the development of healthy fruits.

Don't overfeed

The timing of planting pepper seedlings depends on weather conditions and the location of the site. On the southern slopes, on non-frost areas, they are planted earlier - in the middle or end of May. If the vegetable grower does not have means of temporary protection of plants from frost, then they start planting when the danger of frost has passed (not earlier than June 10-15).

If you want peppers to be sweet, thick and shiny, do not be lazy to prevent diseases of this plant, but without chemicals.

Harvested fruits for one or even two months can be stored in a dry, moderately warm room.

Pepper is responsive to watering. It is necessary that the earth around it is always sufficiently moist. The dryness of the soil weakens the growth, causes the fall of flowers and ovaries. But pepper does not like waterlogged soil either.

If there are a lot of fruits on bell pepper, and autumn is already “just around the corner”, speed up their ripening a little. If signs of biological ripeness appear - colored spots, smears - immediately remove them. Place the peppers in a plastic bag and place them in a cool (but not cold) place. A few days later, peppers

The fruits of sweet pepper are consumed fresh, pickled, canned, dried, fried, boiled, stewed. It is also possible to process pepper into caviar, puree, vegetable snacks.​

On my site, I usually plant no more than a dozen peppers of different varieties. At the same time, I try to place them as far apart as possible, separating them with tall tomatoes, sunflowers, and corn.

A lot is also bad

Zinc deficiency manifests itself as yellowish-green spots that appear on old leaves, and then turn brown, later the leaves die off.

They say you can't spoil porridge with butter. But it is not always the case. The more you feed peppers with slurry, the less they will yield.

Peppers are best planted in a ribbon way. The distance between the ribbons is 50-60 cm, between the plants in a row - 15-25 cm. Early ripe, undersized varieties are placed in a row after 15 cm, or two plants per hole, but at a distance of 30-40 cm.

Wormwood and tansy are harvested during flowering, cutting plants with stems. Half a bucket of green mass is boiled for 10-15 minutes in a small amount of water, the broth is allowed to cool, filtered, brought to a volume of 10 liters and pepper bushes are sprayed.

This is the most dangerous pest, literally sucking juice from plants. Chemical methods of struggle - treatment with the preparations "Iskra", "Commander" and others according to the instructions and only before the start of fruiting.

Pepper in the "sleeve"

Atmospheric precipitation cannot in any way affect the frequency of irrigation. They only help the grower by reducing the irrigation rate. An exception may be torrential or heavy rains, which provide as much moisture as when watering. ripen In preparation for drying, the core is removed from the peppers, washed thoroughly. Then the pulp is cut into pieces 1.5 x 1.5 or 2 x 2 cm in size, blanched in boiling 1% salt solution for 1-2 minutes, allowed to drain and placed on a sieve. Dry at a temperature of 60-70 ° C for 3-5 hours. To obtain 1 kg of dried pepper, you need to take 10-12 kg of fresh. I noticed that the maximum yield is given by peppers that are grown through seedlings, on well-fertilized soft soil, with uniform moisture throughout the entire growing period. Usually I fertilize the soil with humus or compost for digging - 1.5 buckets per 1 sq. m. Subsequently, I feed with mullein or bird droppings, diluted with water 1:10 and 1:20, respectively. All this gives good results.​ To avoid this, spray peppers with "Kemira Lux" or "Kemira Combi" (1 g per 1 liter of water). How to increase the yield?

You don't have to dive

Goes on a walk, burns the plant, surprising with tops, not fruits.

Landing technique is very important. Many vegetable growers are doing it wrong. First, a hole is made, seedlings are immersed in it, then the roots are covered with earth and watered. With such a planting, already on the second day, a crust forms at the place of irrigation, which enhances the evaporation of moisture from the lower layers of the soil, makes it difficult for air to reach the roots and beneficial soil microorganisms, and worsens the conditions for plant survival. Therefore, the vegetable grower is forced to water the seedlings almost daily until it takes root.

Yarrow is harvested at the beginning of flowering, 1.5 kilograms of chopped greens are poured with 2-3 liters of boiling water, insisted for two days, filtered, brought to 10 liters. Infusions are also prepared for processing peppers from tomato and potato tops.

Spider mite

Sprinkler irrigation is not performed.

Let's get rid of dampness

, practically without losing vitamins and their taste. The fruits remaining on the bush will get more nutrition, therefore, they will also ripen earlier.

In order for the pepper to show all its taste qualities, it needs to be provided with what it loves most: nutrition, warmth and moisture. Now there are good

Vasily Ivanovich ALEINIK, Minsk region, Volozhinsky district
If the plants lack iron, then on carbonate, "phosphated" or over-limed soils, young peppers change color, the tissues between the green veins turn yellow or white, becoming as if reticulated.

For this:

Yu.P. ANANEV, Samara

The correct landing technique is as follows. First, using a cord or marker, mark the ribbons. Then, holes 10-12 cm deep are made along each row every 15-30 cm with a planting scoop or hoe. Each hole is watered at the rate of 0.5-1 l of water per plant. Potted or potless seedlings are planted in the resulting "dirt", covered with soil and compacted. From above, around the planted seedlings, peat or dry soil is poured with a layer of 3-4 cm. This loose layer serves as a mulch that will prevent moisture from evaporating from the hole and the lower soil horizon. After planting is completed, it is impossible to water the mulch layer - in order to avoid the formation of a soil crust.​

100 g of fresh fruits of hot pepper are boiled in 1 liter of water in a saucepan under a closed lid for an hour, insisted for two days. Then the pepper is ground, the infusion is stirred, filtered and diluted 1:10.

It also sucks the juice from pepper leaves. The method of struggle is spraying with the Iskra-Bio preparation when pests appear before fruiting. In any phase of pepper development, treatment with an infusion of garlic or onion and dandelion leaves is also effective (one glass of finely chopped garlic or onion and dandelion leaves is diluted in 10 liters of water, 2 tablespoons of liquid soap are added, the plants are filtered and sprayed).

I take a rectangle of plastic film measuring 25 by 70 centimeters, sew it along the short side. It turns out a film sleeve 25 cm long. I dig a hole in the ground 30 cm deep. I line the bottom with turf.

The best watering time is in the morning. If it was cold at night, then water it with warm water. If the nights are warm, then in the evening they are watered with warm, settled water in a barrel at the rate of 10 liters (bucket) per 15-20 bushes on clay and heavy loamy soils and 1 liter each on sandy and sandy soils. Watered only after loosening and very carefully, from a ladle. First, on the one hand, in order to avoid the formation of a crust around the entire bush, and the next day, after loosening the side of the bush watered the day before, on the other hand. This contributes to the uniform development of the root system.

By giving plants more attention, you will be thanked a hundredfold with their delicious, juicy fruits.

Hot peppers can be harvested after the pods have formed. That is, it can be used both in the stage of full ripening and in the stage of incomplete ripeness. For high-quality and long-term storage, hot peppers should be collected only at the stage of full biological ripening. If you collect the pepper earlier, when it has not yet reached, then it will not be stored well. This is due to the fact that the duration of storage of pepper depends on a sharp special substance, the amount of which increases in proportion to ripening. The more ripe the pepper, the more bitter substances it contains, which act as preservatives while preserving these vegetables. Therefore, it is very important to know when to harvest hot peppers.

Signs of ripening hot peppers

It is not difficult to determine the degree of ripening of hot peppers, since these vegetables have a bright pronounced signs ripeness. The main signs of ripening hot peppers include:

1. Hot pepper pods should be red, yellow or orange. It is by the bright color that you can easily determine the level of ripening of hot peppers.
2. Pepper leaves begin to turn yellow and often the lower leaves begin to dry.
3. Ripe hot pepper pods great content bitter substances, this can be determined by rubbing the pod on the back of the hand. If you feel a slight burning sensation of the skin, then the pepper is already ripe.

The best indicator of a hot pepper's ripeness is its level of bitterness. The hotter the pepper, the longer it can be stored. Usually hot peppers are harvested for long-term storage at the end of September. It is then that most varieties of bitter pepper reach full biological maturity. Peppers that have been harvested earlier will most likely not be able to be stored for a long time, since they do not have enough pungent substances that act as preservatives. Peppers that were harvested before biological ripening are used primarily for canning.

The collection of pepper can be carried out in biological (when the fruit has reached its varietal characteristics - size, color, shape, etc.), and in technical (when the fruit has formed a fruit organ by external signs, but does not have the color and size inherent in this variety) ripeness. The first fruits in technical ripeness can be obtained in 60 - 70 days. And one of the suitable varieties is Flamingo F1.

From biological to technical ripeness takes 20 - 30 days. Fruits are usually harvested in the phase of technical and biological ripeness, during this period they contain the greatest amount of useful substances, namely sugars, mineral salts, vitamins. The ripeness of a pepper can be determined by a specific crackle when the fruit is touched. Harvesting of pepper occurs at the same time as harvesting of tomatoes and eggplant. The first harvest is obtained in early, mid-August and continues to be harvested until frost.

In technical ripeness, the fruits are harvested selectively, every 6 to 8 days. It is best to cut the fruits with the stalk, so they will be better stored without losing their taste. Remove carefully so as not to damage the branches of plants, which are very fragile. Harvesting late can cause the next crop to stop growing. For the entire growing season, 3-5 collections are carried out.

Pepper collection and storage

Before the onset of the planned frosts, all fruits are harvested, sorted by ripeness and size for ripening indoors.

Like most vegetables, pepper has a low keeping quality and, if stored poorly, the fruits rot in two days. When properly stored, peppers can last up to a month longer than tomatoes and eggplant. Fruits of technical ripeness, without mechanical damages, are selected for storage. Thin-walled peppers are best stored in refrigerators. In fruits that are left for storage, the stalk is cut off (part of it, leaving a small tip). Peppers should be free from disease, damage, cracks and dents.

For storage, various containers are used, from boxes to plastic bags. The thickness of the package must be at least 120 microns, have a perforated membrane on the side wall of the package. For transportation and further sale, special plastic packaging is used.

Polyethylene does not allow air to pass through and carbon dioxide is formed inside the bag, which displaces oxygen, that is, conditions are formed under which any product is stored better. In addition to the package, each fruit can be wrapped in paper or other material.

Fruits are often stored in cellars or cold stores. They are placed in bags, boxes, baskets in 2-3 rows or on shelves. Important storage conditions temperature regime. It should be 8 - 10 °C at a relative humidity of 80 - 90%. By the way, fruits wrapped in paper are well stored for a month and a half, while maintaining freshness and taste.

It is necessary to ensure that there are no foreign odors in the room, as pepper easily absorbs them. Ideally, if it is stored in a separate room from other vegetables. Pepper containers should be clean and free from additional odors. In the refrigerator, pepper is stored less, but at a temperature of 9 - 10 ° C and a humidity of 80%, it can lie until the next month.

Pepper processing

Pepper is a versatile plant. It can be consumed both fresh and processed. But pepper fruits can also be frozen, dried, stewed, fried, boiled, preserved, caviar, mashed, pasta, etc. are made from them.

Fruits are often used for canning, such a product is very popular among the population. From dried and frozen fruits, you can cook various soups, side dishes, and also use as a snack.

And in conclusion, I would like to point out one of the main reasons for good keeping quality - this is a variety. By the way, choosing the right variety can increase the shelf life of peppers.