The Chaika sewing machine manual can be used as a manual for any models of sewing machines that perform a Chaika zigzag stitch: Chaika 2, Chaika 3, Chaika 134. This Chaika sewing machine instruction is also suitable for Malva sewing machines and the Podolsk brand: Podolsk 142, Podolsk 142M etc.1. Sewing machines such as Chaika, Podolsk are arranged in the same way. This instruction manual for the Chaika sewing machine is given in abbreviated form, based on the manufacturer's instructions. The operation and device of the Podolsk and Chaika sewing machine is almost the same type, therefore this instruction manual is suitable for all models of these sewing machines, including the Malva sewing machine. They have the same device and differ only in the presence of additional types of zigzag stitches. Some Chaika and Podolskaya models have an additional device (copier) for this and, accordingly, a lever for switching its operating modes. The shuttle device, threading and adjustment parameters of the units and mechanisms of these sewing machines are almost the same, with the exception of setting some settings for the shuttle operation parameters (depending on the model of the machine). For details on how to set up and perform minor repairs on sewing machines such as Chaika, see other articles in the section on repairing sewing machines.2. Controls and components of the machine Chaika, Podolsk 142 1. Shuttle device. 2. Platform. 3. Needle plate. 4. Presser foot. 5. Needle bar. i6. Presser foot lifter. 7. Upper thread tension regulator. 8. Top and front covers. 9. Thread take-up lever. 10. Tension washers. 11. Index of the type of lines. 12. Zigzag width indicator. 13. Rod for the coil. 14. Winder. 15. Flywheel. 16. Needle shift lever. 17. Zigzag handle. 18. Reverse feed lever. 19. Stitch length knob. 20. Comb lift control knob. 21. Engine material. 22. Picture panel. 23. Handle for switching copier unit. 3. Types of fabrics for sewing, threads and needles for a sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk Fine grades of silk, cambric - needle No. 70, thread - 65 Sheet, calico, chintz, satin, silk, linen fabrics - needle No. 80, thread - 65 Heavy cotton fabrics, coarse calico, flannel, thin woolen fabrics, heavy grades of silk - needle No. 90 Wool suit - No. needle 100 Thick woolen coat fabrics, broadcloth - Needle No. 110 Needle 1 must be installed in needle holder 2 (with the needle bar in the upper position) up to the stop and fix with screw 3. The flat side of the flask 4 (flat) on the needle should be turned in the opposite direction from the working person (Fig. 4)4. Top and bottom threading. Instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk Threading the upper thread Pull the spool pin 13 up to the stop from the sleeve cover. Set the thread take-up eye to the highest position by turning the handwheel. Raise the presser foot. Install a spool of thread on the rod 13. You need to thread the upper thread in this sequence. Into the holes 7 and 6 of the leaf thread guide, between the washers 8 of the tension regulator, then up into the eye 4 of the thread take-up spring, down under the thread take-up hook 3, up through the hole of the thread take-up lever 5, down into the wire thread guide 2, into the thread guide 1 on the needle bar and put into the eye needle 9 from the side of the worker. Threading the bobbin thread Before threading the bobbin thread, you need to pull out the bobbin case with the bobbin from the bobbin, for which you need to turn the handwheel to put the needle in the upper position. Pull out the sliding plate, grab the bobbin case latch lever with two fingers of the left hand and remove the bobbin case.5. Thread winding. Instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk Wind the threads on the bobbin using a winder. When winding the thread on the bobbin, the handwheel of the machine should rotate idly. To do this, release the friction screw 1 (Fig. 8). Put the bobbin on the winder spindle 2 so that the spindle spring enters the bobbin slot. Spool 1 with threads put on the spool pin. Thread from the spool between the tension washers 4, as shown in fig. 9, and then wind a few turns on the bobbin by hand. Pull the winder up to the flywheel. Further winding by rotating the flywheel with the help of the drive. After the bobbin is fully wound, the winder rubber ring will no longer come into contact with the handwheel, and winding will stop. Before removing the bobbin, the winder must be moved to the left from stop 3. Thread the wound bobbin into the bobbin case and thread under the tension spring, as shown in fig. 10. Leave a free end of the thread 10-15 cm long. Insert the bobbin case with the bobbin threaded into the hook. In this case, the needle should be in the up position. Put the bobbin case with the bobbin on the rod 3 of the hook until it stops. In this case, the finger 1 of the bobbin case should enter the socket 2 (Fig. 11).6. Machine management. Instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk When the bobbin case is correctly inserted, the latch lever should be in a spring-loaded state and, when opened, tend to return to its original position. Before sewing, the lower thread must be removed to the needle plate, for this, while holding the end of the needle thread, turn the handwheel so that the needle drops into the needle hole, grabs the lower bobbin thread and rises to the upper position. With the upper thread, pull the bobbin thread onto the needle plate (fig. 12) and place the ends of the upper and bobbin threads under the presser foot, as shown in fig. 13. For sewing with a simple straight line, it is necessary to combine the number 0 on the handle 17 with the pointer 12 (Fig. 1). Handle 23 can be in any position. The stitch length is set by turning the knob 19 (Fig. 1) until the number aligns with the pointer on the panel. The reverse direction of the supply of material for backtacking is carried out by pressing the lever 18 (Fig. 1) down to the stop. The reverse feed pitch over 2.5 mm remains constant within 2.5 mm. The rail lifting height is adjusted with regulator 1 (Fig. 14). The use of the regulator is carried out with the sliding plate removed. For thick materials, the regulator is set to the H mark (normal), for thin materials, to the W mark (silk), for embroidery and darning, to the H mark (embroidery). The letters should be visible from above. To switch to zigzag, decorative and target stitches, you need to set knob 23 (fig. 1) by lightly pressing and turning to the desired stitch type. By turning the knob 17, combine the number 5 with the pointer 12. The pattern for finishing products will be clearer with a smaller stitch pitch. The stitch shift is used when performing special operations, for example, when sewing buttonholes, sewing in zippers, etc. Knob 16 is used to shift the stitch. By turning it all the way without effort in the direction indicated by the arrows, the needle moves to the right or left of the middle position . To check the quality of sewing, it is recommended to make a test stitch on a patch of the fabric you need and, if necessary, adjust the thread tension. The tension of the upper thread is adjusted using the tension regulator. The interlacing of the upper and lower threads should occur in the middle of the materials to be sewn. If the thread weave is on top when the stitch is formed, loosen the upper thread tension. If the weave of the threads is at the bottom, you need to increase the tension of the upper thread. When sewing through thick and hard places, sew slowly and turn the handwheel by hand. When sewing thin fabrics such as silk, etc., we recommend pulling the fabric slightly behind the presser foot to avoid seam pulling. For normal operation of the machine, it is necessary to start sewing in the following sequence: pull out the threads tucked under the foot (lower and upper) and hold them, lower the needle into the material (turning the handwheel towards yourself by hand), lower the foot and make 2-3 stitches. After that, you can release the threads and continue sewing. After sewing, raise the presser foot, pull the material to be sewn away from you and cut the threads on the edge of the thread cutter located on the presser foot bar (Fig. 12, position 1), leaving the end of the casting 8-10 centimeters long.7. Care, lubrication. Instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk To ensure easy running of the machine and prevent wear, all places indicated by arrows should be lubricated with one or two drops of industrial oil I-20A GOST 20799-75. Lubrication points for the machine head (fig. 17) Lubrication points for the zigzag mechanism (fig. 19) Cleaning and lubrication of the hook (fig. 20) Heavy running of the machine, and sometimes jamming, can occur due to contamination of the shuttle. The course is clogged with scraps of thread, tows of fabric, dust. See also Lubricating the sewing machines To clean the hook run, the needle bar must be in the up position. Pull out the bobbin case 1, remove the trim ring 2 by turning the spring lock towards you, remove the hook 3. Carefully clean the hook socket 4 with a brush-brush from dust, dirt, threads. At the same time, it is not allowed to use metal objects for cleaning so as not to damage the cleanliness of the working surface. The direction for the shuttle in the travel case and the winder spindle are also lubricated with 1-2 drops of oil. Seagull sewing machine. Repair and adjustment The Chaika sewing machine is perhaps the most popular model of a sewing machine for the home, despite the abundance of imported household sewing machines in stores. At one time, I had to buy Chaika for a lot of money, and she seems to sew well, only sometimes she winds, but otherwise everything is whole and unharmed. Indeed, it is almost impossible to break the Seagull sewing machine. The body is made of aluminum, the parts are all metal, the components are strong and reliable - everything is in the style of Soviet technology. But, unfortunately, the line winds almost "from birth", gaps sometimes appear in the line, especially on a zigzag and knocks when sewing, like a machine gun. The manufacturer includes instructions for the Seagull sewing machine, which details how to use the machine and perform various operations, there is even circuit diagram an electric motor, a pedal device, but not a word about how to set up and perform at least minor repairs on a Chaika sewing machine. We will try to fill this gap in the instructions and give some recommendations on how to repair the Chaika sewing machine with your own hands. Modifications of the Chaika brand sewing machines return the thread, as well as breaking it from above and below. Sewing machine Chaika, Chaika M, Chaika 142, Chaika 132, Chaika 134, Chaika 132 m, Chaika 142 M, Chaika 143, Chaika 3, Chaika 2 and Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1; Malva and others - all these machines have the same device and instructions for use and setup, so their repair is almost the same, with the exception of repairing the copier (depending on the model of the machine) and setting the shuttle settings. But since our task is to learn how to tune only the line, we will omit the repair of many nodes. In addition, such repairs cannot be done by hand, without professional knowledge and experience at home.1. Care, lubrication of the Chaika sewing machineBefore you start repairing and setting up the Chaika sewing machine on your own, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, and lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws). Detach the presser foot, remove the needle and needle plate, bobbin cover. Detach the machine from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the shuttle: bobbin case, locking ring, shuttle. Now remove dust, dirt, lint from the machine (especially in the shuttle compartment) and lubricate all rubbing, accessible places well with machine oil. For cleaning, use a hard small brush for glue, and it is very convenient to use a medical disposable syringe to lubricate the sewing machine.2. Use needles designed only for Chaika sewing machines Thread breakage often occurs with Chaika sewing machines. The first reason leading to thread breakage is a bent needle point, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible. Use serviceable needles and designed only for household sewing machines, in accordance See instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk 142 Sewing machine needles must be in perfect condition. The condition of the needle can be determined by running a fingernail along the tip of the needle or using a magnifying glass. Often it is the needle that causes gaps in stitches, needle breakage and other stitching defects. Choose the number of the needle depending on the thickness of the fabric and thread. Do not use industrial grade needles with a round head for household sewing machines. Needles for household sewing machines have a cut on the flask. For sewing various fabrics and materials, use the appropriate type of needle, for example, for sewing leather, the needle has a four-sided tip, which makes it easier to pierce the material and contributes to the formation of a loop on the needle when it is captured by the nose of the hook.3. The needle, when entering the needle hole, should not touch it. Thread breakage can be the result of many malfunctions, for example, if the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, the thread will break periodically. When performing a straight stitch, the needle should be located in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly removed from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the distance L should be the same as R. The longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle gap is carried out by shifting the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker at the top of the machine (turn the flywheel on the zigzag stitch and you will see this mount). Loosen these screws and set the needle exactly in the center on a straight stitch (offsetting the needle bar frame). Then check the position of the needle with the left and right injection. The needle entry (at the maximum zigzag width), right and left will be evenly removed from the center. If the needle touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag, contact the master, this case is already for him.4. The transverse position of the needle at Chaika can spontaneously go astray. The transverse position of the needle is regulated by a rod fixed to the plate with two screws and a plate pressing the needle bar frame to the bracket rod. Adjusting this assembly is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously go astray during operation, especially for electric sewing machines. Therefore, if you decide to repair the Chaika sewing machine yourself, you should learn how to adjust this position of the needle, since the displacement of the needle forward is the cause of its breakdown, and the displacement towards the seamstress is the cause of skips. Adjusting the lateral position of the needle requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the master, since the wrong position of the needle can cause misalignment of other nodes, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams. Pay attention to the condition of the needle plate. Hole e should not be "broken" and have notches. It is better to replace such a plate.5. The position of the hook at the Seagull is the cause of skips and looping. Incorrect position of the shuttle of the Seagull sewing machines leads to thread breakage and the appearance of other stitching defects, including gaps. Passes usually appear due to the wrong position of the shuttle at the moment of meeting with the needle - the nose of the shuttle does not capture the loop formed, passes by and a gap is formed. The reasons for the appearance of skipped stitches on a sewing machine can be many other factors, for example, a “twisted” thread, a bent needle, the thickness of the fabric does not match the thickness of the needle, etc., but still the main one is too large a gap between the blade of the needle and the nose of the shuttle. In order to correctly set the position of the meeting of the hook nose and the needle, it is necessary to correctly adjust the position of the hook nose. To get started, turn the machine on its side and find the shuttle mount on the left side, tightened with two M10 bolts. You need to unscrew them with a ring wrench, in the worst case with an open-end wrench, but not with pliers. Loosen these two bolts, and carefully, using a powerful screwdriver, move the shuttle mechanism so that the hook nose is almost flush with the needle blade. Previously, you must already remove the needle plate, bring the foot and needle to the nose of the shuttle. To accurately set this gap, use a magnifying glass. In the same way as you brought the nose closer to the needle, only in reverse direction, it is possible to move the course along with the shuttle in relation to the needle. The shuttle travel rotates on an axle rather than moving back and forth. This is a very important point. No need to pull it out with a nail puller or hammer it in with a hammer, it easily turns on its axis. It is difficult for an inexperienced person to immediately understand what in question but also to explain. All that can be added is to carefully understand before you twist something, and even more so unscrew it. The remaining parts after the repair of the sewing machine Seagull should not be.6. The interaction of the shuttle and the needle of the Seagull sewing machine We are getting closer and closer to the most important secret of the Seagull sewing machine - why does it wind? But first, let's finish adjusting the gap between the needle and the nose of the shuttle, learn something else about the design of the Chaika sewing machine and its modifications. At the time of the meeting of the nose of the shuttle and the blade of the needle, the following parameters must be observed: the gap between the nose and the blade is approximately 0.1 - 0.15 mm; when the needle leaves the lower position to a height of 1.8 - 2.0 mm, the nose should approach it above the eye of the needle by 1 mm, at least, but not more than 2 mm. By the way, this is a very important point - lifting the needle from the bottom position. This parameter affects the formation of the needle loop and should be addressed Special attention . In order for the spout to grab the thread from the needle, it is necessary that a loop is formed, where it passes, hooking it. That is why the needle must first go down, and then, having risen a little, already meet the looper nose, thus forming a loop for capture. The position of the needle is adjusted by the needle bar. There is a special screw on the sleeve holding the needle bar. To roughly understand what is at stake, you can see how its position is regulated by an industrial sewing machine 1022, class 22. All of the above parameters are suitable for all modifications of Chaika, Podolskaya sewing machines and are universal for almost all sewing household lockstitch machines. You can use these recommendations to repair sewing machines of other brands, except for those discussed below.7. The Chaika sewing machine models have differences in the shuttle setting. If you set these parameters, the Chaika sewing machine will work relatively normally. But, unfortunately, this repair is not over. There are still many other settings that are quite complex and necessary for the Chaika sewing machine - this is the repair of the shuttle. It is there that the reasons for the looping of the thread and such a rare phenomenon for sewing machines are hidden - the breakage of the lower thread. The complexity of the presentation of this material is that for almost any model of the sewing machine "Chaika" engineers have provided their own settings for this unit and, moreover, it still requires a lot of experience from the performer. We will deliberately not give recommendations on how to configure it, since it is almost impossible to perform them on your own. The master adjuster usually picks up one single position of the shuttle nose relative to the needle, varying between three defects: thread looping, bottom thread breakage and top thread breakage. Briefly, we only note that the main position of the shuttle nose is regulated in relation to the needle when it is in the left position, with the left injection. Having passed the needle just above the eye, the nose should finish its movement and go further (to the left) beyond the needle by 1-3 mm. This parameter is 1-3 mm. for each model of the Seagull "its own" and it depends on him how the line will be formed. If the hook goes too far behind the needle, it pulls out the excess upper thread and loops appear, if the thread does not “reach”, the thread may break. Adjust the machine so that with the left injection and the right injection, the shuttle nose confidently grabs the loop from the needle. If the machine still has stitching defects, then contact a sewing machine repairman. In order to change the position of the shuttle (the entry of the nose behind the needle), find in the extreme right part of the shaft that drives the shuttle device, the sleeve-lever connected to the main (upper) shaft. Loosen the fastening of the bushing tightened with the M10 screw with a wrench and turn the shaft a little while holding it with pliers. With the other hand you need to hold the flywheel. More.

The Seagull sewing machine manual can be used as a manual for any sewing machine models that perform a seagull zigzag stitch: Seagull 2, Seagull 3, Seagull 134.

This instruction for the Chaika sewing machine is also suitable for Malva and Podolsk brand sewing machines: Podolsk 142, Podolsk 142M, etc.

1. Sewing machines such as Chaika, Podolsk are arranged in the same way

This instruction manual for the Chaika sewing machine is given in abbreviated form, based on the manufacturer's instructions.
The operation and device of the Podolsk and Chaika sewing machine is almost the same type, therefore this instruction manual is suitable for all models of these sewing machines, including the Malva sewing machine. They have the same device and differ only in the presence of additional types of zigzag stitches. Some Chaika and Podolskaya models have an additional device (copier) for this and, accordingly, a lever for switching its operating modes. The shuttle device, threading and adjustment parameters of the units and mechanisms of these sewing machines are almost the same, with the exception of setting some settings for the shuttle operation parameters (depending on the model of the machine).
For details on how to set up and perform minor repairs on sewing machines such as Chaika, see other articles in the section on repairing sewing machines.

2. Controls and components of the Chaika machine, Podolsk 142

1. Shuttle device. 2. Platform. 3. Needle plate. 4. Presser foot. 5. Needle bar. i6. Presser foot lifter. 7. Upper thread tension regulator. 8. Top and front covers. 9. Thread take-up lever. 10. Tension washers. 11. Index of the type of lines. 12. Zigzag width indicator. 13. Rod for the coil. 14. Winder. 15. Flywheel. 16. Needle shift lever. 17. Zigzag handle. 18. Reverse feed lever. 19. Stitch length knob. 20. Comb lift control knob. 21. Engine material. 22. Picture panel. 23. Handle for switching copier unit.

3. Types of fabrics for sewing, threads and needles for a sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk

Fine grades of silk, cambric - needle No. 70, thread - 65
Sheet, calico, chintz, satin, silk, linen fabrics - No. 80 needles, threads - 65
Heavy cotton fabrics, coarse calico, flannel, thin woolen fabrics, heavy silks - needle No. 90
Wool suits - No. 100 needles
Thick woolen coat fabrics, broadcloth - needle no. 110

Needle 1 must be installed in needle holder 2 (with the needle bar in the upper position) up to the stop and secured with screw 3.
The flat side of the flask 4 (flat) on the needle should be turned in the opposite direction from the working person (Fig. 4)

4. Top and bottom threading. Instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk

Top threading
Pull the spool pin 13 up to the stop out of the sleeve cover.
Set the thread take-up eye to the highest position by turning the handwheel.
Raise the presser foot.
Install a spool of thread on the rod 13.
You need to thread the upper thread in this sequence. Into the holes 7 and 6 of the leaf thread guide, between the washers 8 of the tension regulator, then up into the eye 4 of the thread take-up spring, down under the thread take-up hook 3, up through the hole of the thread take-up lever 5, down into the wire thread guide 2, into the thread guide 1 on the needle bar and put into the eye needle 9 from the side of the worker.

Threading the lower thread
Before threading the lower thread, you need to pull out the bobbin case with the bobbin from the bobbin, for which you need to turn the handwheel to put the needle in the upper position. Pull out the sliding plate, grab the bobbin case latch lever with two fingers of your left hand and remove the bobbin case.

5. Thread winding. Instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk

Wind the thread onto the bobbin using a winder. When winding the thread on the bobbin, the handwheel of the machine should rotate idly. To do this, release the friction screw 1 (Fig. 8).
Put the bobbin on the winder spindle 2 so that the spindle spring enters the bobbin slot. Spool 1 with threads put on the spool pin. Thread from the spool between the tension washers 4, as shown in fig. 9, and then wind a few turns on the bobbin by hand. Pull the winder up to the flywheel. Further winding by rotating the flywheel with the help of the drive.
After the bobbin is fully wound, the winder rubber ring will no longer come into contact with the handwheel, and winding will stop. Before removing the bobbin, the winder must be moved to the left from stop 3.
Thread the wound bobbin into the bobbin case and thread under the tension spring as shown in Fig. 10. Leave the free end of the thread 10-15 cm long.
Insert the bobbin case with the bobbin threaded into the hook. In this case, the needle should be in the up position.
Put the bobbin case with the bobbin on the rod 3 of the hook until it stops. In this case, the finger 1 of the bobbin case should enter the slot 2 (Fig. 11).

6. Machine control. Instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk

With the bobbin case correctly inserted, the latch lever should be in a spring-loaded state and, when opened, tend to return to its original position.
Before sewing, the lower thread must be removed to the needle plate, for this, while holding the end of the needle thread, turn the handwheel so that the needle drops into the needle hole, grabs the lower bobbin thread and rises to the upper position. With the upper thread, pull the bobbin thread onto the needle plate (fig. 12) and place the ends of the upper and bobbin threads under the presser foot, as shown in fig. 13.
For sewing with a simple straight line, it is necessary to combine the number 0 on the handle 17 with the pointer 12 (Fig. 1). Handle 23 can be in any position.
The stitch length is set by turning the knob 19 (Fig. 1) until the number aligns with the pointer on the panel.
The reverse direction of the supply of material for backtacking is carried out by pressing the lever 18 (Fig. 1) down to the stop. The reverse feed pitch over 2.5 mm remains constant within 2.5 mm.
The rail lifting height is adjusted with regulator 1 (Fig. 14). The use of the regulator is carried out with the sliding plate removed. For thick materials, the regulator is set to the H mark (normal), for thin materials, to the W mark (silk), for embroidery and darning, to the H mark (embroidery). The letters should be visible from above.
To switch to zigzag, decorative and target stitches, you need to set knob 23 (fig. 1) by lightly pressing and turning to the desired stitch type. By turning the knob 17, combine the number 5 with the index 12.
The pattern for finishing products will be clearer with a smaller stitch pitch. The stitch shift is used when performing special operations, for example, when sewing buttonholes, sewing in zippers, etc. Knob 16 is used to shift the stitch. By turning it all the way without effort in the direction indicated by the arrows, the needle moves to the right or left of the middle position .
To check the quality of sewing, it is recommended to make a test stitch on a patch of the fabric you need and, if necessary, adjust the thread tension.
The tension of the upper thread is adjusted using the tension regulator. The interlacing of the upper and lower threads should occur in the middle of the materials to be sewn. If the thread weave is on top when the stitch is formed, loosen the upper thread tension. If the weave of the threads is at the bottom, you need to increase the tension of the upper thread.
When sewing through thick and hard places, sew slowly and turn the handwheel by hand.
When sewing thin fabrics such as silk, etc., we recommend pulling the fabric slightly behind the presser foot to avoid seam pulling.
For normal operation of the machine, it is necessary to start sewing in the following sequence: pull out the threads tucked under the foot (lower and upper) and hold them, lower the needle into the material (turning the handwheel towards yourself by hand), lower the foot and make 2-3 stitches. After that, you can release the threads and continue sewing.
After sewing, raise the presser foot, pull the material to be sewn away from you and cut the threads on the edge of the thread cutter located on the presser foot bar (Fig. 12, position 1), leaving the end of the casting 8-10 centimeters long.

7. Care, lubrication. Instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk

To ensure easy running of the machine and prevent wear, all places indicated by arrows should be lubricated with one or two drops of industrial oil I-20A GOST 20799-75.
Machine head lubrication points (Fig. 17)
Lubrication points for the zigzag mechanism (Fig. 19)
Cleaning and lubricating the hook (Fig. 20)
The heavy running of the machine, and sometimes jamming, can occur from contamination of the shuttle. The course is clogged with scraps of thread, tows of fabric, dust.
See also Sewing machine lubrication
To clean the shuttle stroke, the needle bar must be placed in the upper position. Pull out the bobbin case 1, remove the trim ring 2 by turning the spring lock towards you, remove the hook 3. Carefully clean the hook socket 4 with a brush-brush from dust, dirt, threads. In this case, it is not allowed to use metal objects for cleaning, so as not to damage the cleanliness of the working surface. The direction for the shuttle in the stroke housing and the winder spindle are also lubricated with 1-2 drops of oil.

Sewing machine Seagull. Repair and tuning

The Chaika sewing machine is perhaps the most popular model of a sewing machine for the home, despite the abundance of imported household sewing machines in stores. At one time, I had to buy Chaika for a lot of money, and she seems to sew well, only sometimes she winds, but otherwise everything is whole and unharmed. Indeed, it is almost impossible to break the Seagull sewing machine. The body is made of aluminum, the parts are all metal, the components are strong and reliable - everything is in the style of Soviet technology. But, unfortunately, the line winds
practically "from birth", gaps sometimes appear in the line, especially on a zigzag and knocks when sewing, like a machine gun.
The manufacturer includes instructions for the Chaika sewing machine in the kit, which details how to use the machine and perform various operations, there is even an electrical circuit of the electric motor, a pedal device, but not a word about how to set up and perform at least minor repairs to the Chaika sewing machine. We will try to fill this gap in the instructions and give some recommendations on how to repair the Chaika sewing machine with your own hands.

Modifications of Chaika brand sewing machines

The main malfunction of machines of the "Seagull" type, performing a zigzag stitch and several types of finishing stitches based on it, are skips, looping of the lower and upper threads, as well as breaking it from above and below. Sewing machine Chaika, Chaika M, Chaika 142, Chaika 132, Chaika 134, Chaika 132 m, Chaika 142 M, Chaika 143, Chaika 3, Chaika 2 and Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1; Malva and others - all these machines have the same device and instructions for use and setup, so their repair is almost the same, with the exception of repairing the copier (depending on the model of the machine) and setting the shuttle settings. But since our task is to learn how to tune only the line, we will omit the repair of many nodes. In addition, such repairs cannot be done with your own hands, without professional knowledge and experience at home.

Before proceeding with the repair and adjustment of the Chaika sewing machine on your own, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, and lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws). Detach the presser foot, remove the needle and needle plate, bobbin cover. Detach the machine from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the shuttle: bobbin case, locking ring, shuttle. Now remove dust, dirt, lint from the machine (especially in the shuttle compartment) and lubricate all rubbing, accessible places well with machine oil. For cleaning, use a hard small brush for glue, and it is very convenient to use a medical disposable syringe to lubricate the sewing machine.

2. Use needles designed only for Chaika sewing machines

Thread breakage often occurs with Seagull-type sewing machines. The first reason leading to thread breakage is a bent needle point, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible. Use serviceable needles and designed only for household sewing machines, in accordance with See instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk 142
Sewing machine needles must be in perfect condition. The condition of the needle can be determined by running a fingernail along the tip of the needle or using a magnifying glass. Often it is the needle that causes gaps in stitches, needle breakage and other stitching defects.
Choose the number of the needle depending on the thickness of the fabric and thread. Do not use industrial grade needles with a round head for household sewing machines. Needles for household sewing machines have a cut on the flask.
For sewing various fabrics and materials, use the appropriate type of needle, for example, for sewing leather, the needle has a square point, which makes it easier to pierce the material and contributes to the formation of a loop on the needle when it is caught by the hook nose.

3. When entering the needle hole, the needle should not touch it

A broken thread can be the result of many malfunctions, for example, if the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, then the thread will break periodically. When performing a straight stitch, the needle should be located in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly removed from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the distance L should be the same with R.
The longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle gap is carried out by shifting the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker arm, in the upper part of the machine (turn the flywheel on the zigzag line and you will see this mount). Loosen these screws and set the needle exactly in the center on a straight stitch (offsetting the needle bar frame). Then check the position of the needle with the left and right injection. The needle entry (at the maximum zigzag width), right and left will be evenly removed from the center. If the needle touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag, contact the master, this case is already for him.

4. The transverse position of the needle at the Seagull can spontaneously go astray

The transverse position of the needle is regulated by a rod fixed to the plate with two screws and a plate pressing the needle bar frame to the bracket rod.
Adjusting this assembly is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously go astray during operation, especially for electric sewing machines. Therefore, if you decide to repair the Chaika sewing machine yourself, you should learn how to adjust this position of the needle, since the displacement of the needle forward is the cause of its breakdown, and the displacement towards the seamstress is the cause of skips.
Adjusting the lateral position of the needle requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the master, since the wrong position of the needle can cause misalignment of other nodes, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams.
Pay attention to the condition of the needle plate. Hole e should not be "broken" and have notches. It is better to replace such a plate.

5. The position of the shuttle at the Seagull is the cause of skips and loops

Incorrect position of the hook of Chaika sewing machines leads to thread breakage and the appearance of other stitching defects, including gaps. Passes usually appear due to the wrong position of the shuttle at the moment of meeting with the needle - the nose of the shuttle does not capture the loop formed, passes by and a gap is formed. The reasons for the appearance of skipped stitches on a sewing machine can be many other factors, for example, a “twisted” thread, a bent needle, the thickness of the fabric does not match the thickness of the needle, etc., but still the main one is too large a gap between the blade of the needle and the nose of the shuttle.

In order to correctly set the position of the meeting of the hook nose and the needle, it is necessary to correctly adjust the position of the hook nose. To get started, turn the machine on its side and find the shuttle mount on the left side, tightened with two M10 bolts. You need to unscrew them with a ring wrench, in the worst case with an open-end wrench, but not with pliers.
Loosen these two bolts, and carefully, using a powerful screwdriver, move the shuttle mechanism so that the hook nose is almost flush with the needle blade. Previously, you must already remove the needle plate, bring the foot and needle to the nose of the shuttle. To accurately set this gap, use a magnifying glass. In the same way as you brought the nose closer to the needle, only in the opposite direction, you can move the stroke along with the shuttle in relation to the needle. The shuttle travel rotates on an axle rather than moving back and forth. This is a very important point. No need to pull it out with a nail puller or hammer it in with a hammer, it easily turns on its axis. It is difficult for an inexperienced person to immediately understand what is at stake, but also to explain it too. All that can be added is to carefully understand before you twist something, and even more so unscrew it. There should be no remaining parts after the repair of the Seagull sewing machine.

6. Interaction of the shuttle and the needle of the Chaika sewing machine

Closer and closer we are getting to the most important secret of the Seagull sewing machine - why does it wind? But first, let's finish adjusting the gap between the needle and the nose of the shuttle, learn something else about the design of the Chaika sewing machine and its modifications.
At the time of the meeting of the nose of the shuttle and the blade of the needle, the following parameters must be observed: the gap between the nose and the blade is approximately 0.1 - 0.15 mm; when the needle leaves the lower position to a height of 1.8 - 2.0 mm, the nose should approach it above the eye of the needle by 1 mm, at least, but not more than 2 mm. By the way, this is a very important point - lifting the needle from the bottom position. This parameter affects the formation of the needle loop and should be given special attention. In order for the spout to grab the thread from the needle, it is necessary that a loop is formed, where it passes, hooking it. That is why the needle must first go down, and then, having risen a little, already meet the looper nose, thus forming a loop for capture.
The position of the needle is adjusted by the needle bar. There is a special screw on the sleeve holding the needle bar. To roughly understand what is at stake, you can see how its position is regulated by an industrial sewing machine 1022, class 22.
All of the above parameters are suitable for all modifications of Chaika, Podolskaya sewing machines and are universal for almost all sewing household lockstitch machines. You can use these recommendations to repair sewing machines of other brands, except for those discussed below.

7. Models of sewing machines Seagull have differences in the setting of the shuttle

If you set these parameters, the Chaika sewing machine will work relatively normally. But, unfortunately, this repair is not over. There are still many other settings that are quite complex and necessary for the Chaika sewing machine - this is the repair of the shuttle. It is there that the reasons for the looping of the thread and such a rare phenomenon for sewing machines are hidden - the breakage of the lower thread. The complexity of the presentation of this material is that for almost any model of the sewing machine "Chaika" engineers have provided their own settings for this unit and, moreover, it still requires a lot of experience from the performer. We will deliberately not give recommendations on how to configure it, since it is almost impossible to perform them on your own. The master adjuster usually picks up one single position of the shuttle nose relative to the needle, varying between three defects: thread looping, bottom thread breakage and top thread breakage.

Briefly, we only note that the main position of the shuttle nose is regulated in relation to the needle when it is in the left position, with the left injection. Having passed the needle just above the eye, the nose should finish its movement and go further (to the left) beyond the needle by 1-3 mm. This parameter is 1-3 mm. for each model of the Seagull "its own" and it depends on him how the line will be formed. If the hook goes too far behind the needle, it pulls out the excess upper thread and loops appear, if the thread does not “reach”, the thread may break.
Adjust the machine so that with the left injection and the right injection, the shuttle nose confidently grabs the loop from the needle. If the machine still has stitching defects, then contact a sewing machine repairman.
In order to change the position of the shuttle (the entry of the nose behind the needle), find in the extreme right part of the shaft that drives the shuttle device, the sleeve-lever connected to the main (upper) shaft. Loosen the fastening of the bushing tightened with the M10 screw with a wrench and turn the shaft a little while holding it with pliers. With the other hand you need to hold the flywheel.

The Seagull sewing machine performs a straight line, a zigzag line and, based on it, several types of finishing lines. In our time, you can buy such a machine only with an electric drive (with a pedal), a foot model (with a belt), the so-called "cabinet", was produced in Soviet times.
Sewing machine Seagull 2; 3; 142m; 132; 134; 143; Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1; Malva and others - all these machines have the same device and instructions for use and setup. They have practically no structural differences, except that there is an additional set of types of decorative zigzag stitches. True, when repairs and adjustments are being made, for each model of the Chaika or Podolsk sewing machine, it is required to know the corresponding parameters, the configuration schemes for the shuttle assembly of each model. This is one of the disadvantages, but the big advantage is that the price of spare parts, especially used ones for Chaika-type sewing machines, is quite acceptable.

Before you start setting up the Chaika sewing machine on your own, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws). Detach the presser foot, remove the needle and needle plate, bobbin cover. Detach the machine from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the shuttle: bobbin case, locking ring, shuttle. Now remove dust, dirt, lint from the machine (especially in the shuttle compartment) and lubricate all rubbing, accessible places well with machine oil.

As a rule, the main malfunctions of Chaika-type sewing machines are thread breakage during sewing; skipped stitches; looping of the upper thread in the line. There is also a characteristic knock during operation, but this is a design feature of these machines and the only remedy is periodic lubrication. Although there are exceptions, and Seagull sewing machines work quite softly.
Thread break. The first reason leading to thread breakage is the bent point of a blunt needle, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible. Use serviceable needles and designed for Chaika sewing machines, in accordance with the instructions.

The question is often asked: how to insert a thread into a needle in a Seagull sewing machine? For all Chaika-type machines, and for most others that perform a zigzag stitch, the needle is placed with the sawn-off part of the flask away from you, and the groove for the thread should look at you. It is from the side of this groove that the thread is inserted.

If the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, then periodically the thread will break. When performing a straight stitch, the needle should be located in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly removed from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the distance L should be the same with R. The longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle gap is carried out by shifting the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker located at the top of the machine (turn the flywheel on the zigzag line and you will see this mount). Loosen these screws and set the needle exactly in the center on a straight stitch (offsetting the needle bar frame).
Then check the position of the needle for the left and right injection. I hope that the needle entry (at the maximum zigzag width on the right and left) will be evenly removed from the center. If the needle touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag, then contact the master, this case is already for him.

The transverse position of the needle is regulated by a rod fixed on a plate with two screws, and a plate pressing the needle bar frame to the bracket rod. Adjusting this assembly is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously go astray during operation, especially the Chaika electric sewing machine. Therefore, if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself, you should learn how to adjust the position of the needle, since moving it forward is the cause of its breakdown, and moving towards the seamstress is the cause of skipped stitches in the line.

Adjusting the needle position requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the master, as it may cause misalignment of other components, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams.
It can be added that when using a curved needle, notches may form on the nose of the hook, which “unwind” the thread and break. It should be perfectly smooth and sharp, without roughness. Its condition can be determined by running a fingernail along the edge of the spout or using a magnifying glass.
The pressure plate tightening screw must not be serrated, the latch handle must be clearly fixed and its surface must be clean and smooth.
Incorrect position of the shuttle nose of Chaika sewing machines leads to thread breakage and the appearance of other stitching defects, including skips. Passes usually appear due to the wrong position of the shuttle at the moment of meeting with the needle. The nose of the shuttle does not capture the loop formed, passes by and a gap is formed. Many other factors can be the reason.

Overlock class 51 is perhaps the most common brand of industrial sewing machine used in everyday life, in small studios.

It is not always necessary to repair overlocks or adjust them, sometimes it is enough just to adjust the thread tension and it will again overcast the fabric with high quality.

Sewing machine Seagull

The Seagull sewing machine performs a straight line, a zigzag line and, based on it, several types of finishing lines. It is completed mainly with electric and foot drive (cabinet).
Sewing machine Chaika 2, Chaika 142M, Chaika 143, Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1, Chaika 132, Chaika 134 and Malva are all a family of the same Chaika sewing machine model.
Their difference is small, with the exception of the settings for the shuttle node and the presence of an additional set of copiers of the zigzag stitch variety.
Before you start setting up the Chaika sewing machine, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, and lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws). Detach the presser foot, remove the needle and needle plate, bobbin cover. Detach the machine from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the shuttle: bobbin case, locking ring, shuttle. Now remove dust, dirt, lint from the machine (especially in the shuttle compartment) and lubricate all rubbing, accessible places well with machine oil.

As a rule, the main malfunctions of Chaika-type sewing machines are: thread breakage when sewing; skipped stitches; looping of the upper thread in the line. There is also a characteristic knock during operation, but this is a design feature of these machines and the only remedy is periodic lubrication. Although there are exceptions, and Seagull sewing machines work quite softly.
Sewing machine Seagull: thread breakage; needle position.
The first reason leading to thread breakage is the bent point of a blunt needle, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible. Use serviceable needles and designed for Chaika sewing machines, in accordance with the instructions.
The question is often asked: how to insert a thread into a needle in a Seagull sewing machine?
For all Chaika-type machines, and for most others that perform a zigzag stitch, the needle is placed with the sawn-off part of the bulb away from you, and the groove for the thread should look at you. It is from the side of this groove that the thread is inserted.
It can be added that when using a curved needle, notches may form on the nose of the shuttle, which “unwind” the thread and break. It should be perfectly smooth and sharp, without roughness. Its condition can be determined by running a fingernail along the edge of the spout or using a magnifying glass.

Incorrect position of the hook of Chaika sewing machines leads to thread breakage and the appearance of other stitching defects, including gaps.
Passes usually appear due to the wrong position of the shuttle at the moment of meeting with the needle - the nose of the shuttle does not capture the loop formed, passes by and a gap is formed. Many other factors can be the reason. We will consider this particular unit in more detail, since it has significant adjustment differences from other sewing machines, including inside model range sewing machines Seagull.

First, set the needle to its highest position and see what the gap is between the shuttle and the output end of the pusher (a flat spring inside the shuttle). The gap should be 0.3 mm. If it is larger, bend the plate slightly. Do the same on the other input end of the plate. However, this must be done carefully and not bend the plate. If, on the contrary, it is necessary to increase the gap, place a piece of wire under the plate and gently press its edge.

The gap between the needle blade and the nose of the shuttle should be 0.1-0.05 mm. It is set in the position of the included zigzag stitch (maximum span), in the position of the needle when performing the left injection and is adjusted by rotating the trunnion body along with the shuttle.
To adjust it, lay the machine on its side and loosen the two bolts (see illustration) with an M10 wrench. By turning the trunnion (prying it with a powerful screwdriver) towards you, you bring the shuttle nose closer to the needle and vice versa.

Another parameter that can be adjusted independently is the moment the shuttle nose meets the needle at the right zigzag injection.
The nose should come up above the eye of the needle by 1mm. You can adjust this setting by lowering the needle bar.
The needle bar has a cut for the screw, its stroke is limited. If you can't get it lower, don't hit it.
Of course, this is not a complete list of malfunctions and ways to eliminate them on the Seagull sewing machine. In addition, the settings given by us are very general, since each model of a Chaika-type sewing machine has its own parameters and gap sizes, but how common material these recommendations can be used when repairing any household zigzag sewing machine.

Manual sewing machine Podolsk PMZ

The Podolsk class 2M sewing machine performs a straight line, it is equipped mainly with a manual and foot drive, sometimes with an electric drive. For beginning seamstresses, schoolgirls, (for labor lessons) - the ideal car. In terms of its performance and reliability in operation, this sewing machine, perhaps, surpasses many modern ones. After lubrication, she becomes a soft move, and most importantly, she is able to sew thick fabrics and materials. Some experienced seamstresses use it for sewing leather.

Of course, it has drawbacks: a narrow foot, a half rail for advancing the material, a shuttle assembly that is inconvenient for adjusting, but in general, the Podolsk sewing machine is a fairly successful model.

Very often they ask: how to insert a thread into a needle?
It would seem like a childish question, but some seamstresses really cannot do it right, and sometimes they call the master, believing that the machine is broken. The fact is that its shuttle removes the thread from the needle with the right side (the blade of the needle should be on the left, as shown in the figure), and the long groove for the thread is on the right. Sometimes the seamstress places the needle with the blade on the right and the sewing machine even sews! But of course he misses, breaks the thread. Therefore, it is better to stick a diagram of the position of the needle with adhesive tape on the body. Maybe you know how to insert a needle correctly, but your daughter, a schoolgirl, will definitely put it wrong.
When replacing the needle, the cut of the bulb should look to the left, and the thread should be threaded to the right, inside the machine, and not outside, as is sometimes done.

Please note that not all models of the Podolsk needle type are installed in this way. There are models, especially the first ones, in which the needle is attached quite the opposite. To make sure how to properly install the needle, you should remove the needle plate and see which side of the shuttle nose fits the needle.

Look at the state of the manual drive of the machine. It often happens that all its nodes are weakened and not lubricated. Tighten the grub screws with a large screwdriver. Of course, everything must be well lubricated, especially squirt oil under these screws, since they also perform the function of a sleeve.
If the wooden handle dangles, place the lower edge of the sleeve with the handle on a massive metal surface, flare the upper edge of the sleeve with a hammer, it is only advisable to do this to a skilled person, otherwise the handle may be damaged.
And the last is the drying oil effect, which often occurs with inexperienced seamstresses. That is, sometimes a seamstress uses the wrong oil for lubrication, up to sunflower oil, and the machine soon jams and does not turn. Only sewing brand oil should be used for lubrication and nothing else. Even engine oil can coke if the machine long time store on the balcony, where there is a lot of sun and dust.
If this happens - remove the flywheel of the sewing machine, just pay attention to how the friction washer petals are installed (up). After abundant lubrication, let the machine stand, preferably a day, and if possible, add a little kerosene to all rubbing nodes. Then take a screwdriver and insert it into the slot of the main shaft, and very carefully try to pry the main shaft. The most important thing is not to break the slot of the shaft, since it is cast iron and its edges easily break off with excessive force. When the shaft is already turning, put the drive in and idle the machine, constantly adding lubricant, until an easy move appears.

First of all, adjust the looping unit, that is, set the distance between the point of the looper and the eye of the needle. It is adjusted by raising or lowering the needle bar. Outside, on the right, there is a hole for inserting a screwdriver to adjust the position of the needle bar. Insert a short screwdriver into the window and feel for the slot on the screw, and loosening the screw (you cannot completely unscrew it), install the needle bar together with the needle, as shown in the figure: 2-2.5 mm. above the eye of the needle.
As already mentioned, the Podolsk sewing machine has a very inconvenient gap adjustment between the needle blade and the shuttle nose. It can be reduced if the entire shuttle mechanism is moved closer to the needle, which is fixed with 2 screws to the machine body and is regulated by adding or reducing spacers under the shuttle travel body and should be 0.1 mm. But very often these screws are difficult to unscrew, and it is extremely inconvenient to adjust it. If you will be sewing knitwear, you will need to adjust this gap to a minimum value of 0.1 mm.

Upper thread tensioner sewing machine Podolskaya:
When the foot is raised, the thread should freely come out of the tensioner, and when lowered, tightly and evenly press the thread with the force that is needed for the given fabric and thread. In order for the thread to be freely pulled out when the foot is raised, unscrew the tension adjusting nut completely and remove the washer with a bridge in the middle. Make sure that the tensioner has a pusher (a stud with a flattened end). The jumper inside the washer can be pressed a little with a screwdriver, hitting it lightly with pliers and then the pusher will squeeze this washer.
The compensation spring must be in good working order, it gives the line beautiful view and prevents the appearance of looping thread in the line.

Of course, this is not a complete list of tips on how to repair a sewing machine at home on your own, however, in many cases, using this material, you can set up your machine yourself without resorting to the help of a master.

Overlock

Do-it-yourself repair, setting up an overlock

An overlocker, even a household one, is much more complicated than sewing machines and it is almost impossible to set it up, moreover, it is almost impossible to repair an overlocker without special knowledge and skills. However, it is not always necessary to repair overlocks or adjust them, sometimes it is enough just to adjust the thread tension and it will again overcast the fabric with high quality. Some overlockers are very sensitive to the thread setting, and when switching to other quality threads, you have to readjust their tension.

Some instructions provide for the repair of overlocks, their adjustment and give parameters for installing loopers and needles in case of failure of these gaps or replacement of loopers. As a rule, they are indicative, ideal. The master who repairs overlocks has to experimentally bring them to the desired value, so this type of repair is recommended to be done by a professional.
All our recommendations in the overlock repair section are generalized and will fit any overlock model, but do not forget to carefully read the instructions for your model, where you can find information on tuning, lubrication, type of needles and more.

If you have gaps or a thud, this is most likely a dull or bent needle. A dull needle can cause many problems. Overlock needle very important detail, many parameters depend on its condition, in particular, the gap of the needle with the looper is the main parameter for performing overcast stitching without gaps. A blunt needle can be identified by swiping the thumbnail right hand along the needle from the flask to the end. The nail will definitely find a bent place on the tip. You can use a magnifying glass for inspection. If the needle is bent, do not try to straighten it, the overlock settings are very precise and do not allow the use of such needles. To check the condition of the needle, lay it flat on a flat surface. Inspect the needle from above and from the sides: 1 - parallel clearance. 2 - flat surface (glass, etc.)

Pay special attention to what type of needle is installed in your overlocker. A prerequisite is the use of only needles recommended by the factory. In addition to the fact that the needles can be with a round or sawn bulb, they can also differ in the length and thickness of the bulb, the length of the needle itself, and other parameters. If your overlock uses needles with a round flask, you must replace the needle with the same thickness and length of the flask. The sizes and types of needles used are indicated in the instructions, sometimes they are on a sticker inside the overlock. It is best to write down the type of needles on a small piece of paper and stick it with transparent tape on the body. In any household overlock, the needle is installed with a long groove - towards itself, or a sawn off part of the flask - away from itself. Be sure to install the needle all the way, and if you have two needles, then they are located with an offset (one above the other).
After prolonged use, the looper compartment and other accessible places should be cleaned of scraps, lint, etc., preferably with a stiff hair brush (for glue).

Overlock threads play a vital role in the formation of overlock seams. If you use threads of different quality or thickness, this will immediately affect the tension and therefore the stitch pattern will change. Overlock is very sensitive to tension, and the slightest change in one thread can affect all the others. It is ideal to use threads of the same brand, changing only colors. But in practice this rarely happens, therefore, when replacing threads with a different type or thickness, we recommend loosening all tensioners and at the slowest speed, gradually increase the tension of each thread, periodically checking which thread, and how much, tighten. Sometimes, when setting up an overlock stitch, you can use a different color of thread, for clarity of adjusting the tension of each, and then set the necessary ones.
Try not to use cotton or thick threads. The thinner and more elastic the thread, the easier it passes in the sewn fabric, needles, loopers and the stitch is better.

Overlockers should be lubricated at least once every six months, and with intensive use once a month. It is advisable to use a medical syringe for this, instead of an oil can. With a long needle, you can always crawl into hard-to-reach places, and spend less oil. Excess oil around the needle can damage the fabric being processed. Try to carefully lubricate the nodes that have contact with the fabric. The instructions provide a lubrication scheme, but you can make it a rule to lubricate any accessible places where there is friction of metal parts, even if they are not specified by the factory. In order to thoroughly lubricate all the components of the overlock, it is sometimes necessary to remove the protective covers of the case, but if they are difficult to remove, you can get by with factory marks for lubrication. Overlock lubrication should be given more attention than a sewing machine, since the overlock works at higher speeds and the lack of lubrication in some nodes leads to overheating and even jamming.

The list of the main malfunctions of overlockers:
Fabric does not move: The presser foot pressure is too weak. If the fabric is too thin, then the pressure must be reduced, otherwise the fabric will gather. Increase the presser foot pressure when overcasting thick fabrics. In general, the presser foot pressure should not be changed unless clearly necessary.

Broken needle: the needle is bent or dull; the needle is incorrectly installed; the fabric is strongly pulled by hand when working.

Thread break - Threads are not threaded correctly. Drive carefully. In some models of earlocks, threading into the loopers is a rather complicated procedure, and specially curved tweezers are indispensable. Be sure to insert the thread into all the points of its fastening indicated in the diagram;
The thread is tangled. Check the spool, maybe the thread has come off the spool and caught on the body part. Check the thread guides and the entire thread path;
Too much thread tension is one of the reasons for the breakage;
Using a different type of needle (see above).

Skipped stitches: the needle is bent or dull; the needle is incorrectly installed; a needle is used that is not recommended for use by the manufacturer; the thread is not threaded correctly or one of the thread fasteners is missing; Presser foot pressure is too weak.

The stitches are uneven: the thread tension is incorrectly adjusted.

The fabric is puckering: the thread tension is too tight. When sewing thin and light fabrics, the thread tension should be loosened; the thread is not threaded correctly or is tangled.

Overlock 51 class

Ovelok 51 class is perhaps the most common brand of industrial sewing machine used in everyday life, in small studios. Although morally this technique has long been outdated and many modern fabrics are simply impossible to process on it with high quality, nevertheless, its use is sometimes justified, especially for processing coarse and thick fabrics. One of the advantages, besides, 51 classes is an affordable price. For 3-4 thousand rubles, you can buy a pretty decent used overlocker. Sometimes there is a problem to perform repairs, set up an overlock. All instructions for it have been lost, there is practically no literature available, and the services of a master are sometimes more expensive than the oven itself. For this case, we offer you a small recommendation.

Technical characteristics of the overlock class 51 and 51-A.
the maximum frequency of rotation of the main shaft is 3500 rpm; stitch length 1.5...4 mm; overcasting width 3-6 mm; the maximum thickness of the processed fabrics is 2.5 mm. Overlock class 51 is distinguished by the presence of a differential fabric feed, in a class 51-A machine - a simple rail. It can be explained more simply as a class 51 overlock can stretch the edge of the sewn fabric, which makes the seam elastic, this is very important for knitted fabrics. Therefore, it can overcast not only suit and coat fabrics, but also knitted and underwear. Outwardly, they are exactly the same, but the presence of a differential rail greatly increases its capabilities. Both machines use needle type 0029 - (60, 65, 75, 90, 100)

To set up the overlock yourself, perhaps there are few instructions, experience and skill are required. The correct interaction of the loopers and the needle with each other occurs subject to the observance of many parameters, which are quite difficult to set without experience. In this manual for 51 overlocks, the main ones are given, which can only serve as a guide for you when setting up.

The main guideline for setting is the left looper (lower) L. When lowering the needle to the lowest position, it should take the leftmost position at a distance of 4 ... 5 mm from the needle. When lifting the needle by 2.5-3 mm. a loop of the needle thread is formed and the nose of the left looper, moving to the right towards the needle, at this moment (1.5 ... 2 mm above the eye of the needle) should capture the loop formed. The gap between the looper blade and the needle should be as small as 0.05mm. This gap can be set by loosening the screw securing the left looper B, and carefully turning it towards the needle at the moment it approaches it. After several attempts to achieve the required clearance, do not forget to tighten the screw B. Do not loosen the screw B too much, the looper should be fed with a little effort.
Having grasped the loop, the left looper pulls it along its edge, and the right looper R moves towards it to enter the loop of the left looper. The nose of the right looper passes along the recess on the back side of the left looper, as close as possible to its eye and blade at the same time. If a horizontal line is drawn at this point, the nose of the right looper should be below the eye of the left looper and the gap between the blades of both loopers should be 0.1...0.15 mm. You can get confused in these terms, but it doesn’t get any easier ... Now it remains only to remove the loop from the right looper with the needle, and the overlock will work like a clock.
When lowering the needle into the loop of the right looper, the gap between it and the blade should also be 0.1 ... 0.15 mm and the distance between the eye of the right looper and the needle point (when they are at the same level) is approximately 0.3..0.5 mm.
The right looper does not have an adjustment screw to bring its nose closer or further away, it is rigidly fixed with a screw to the platform. Its adjustment takes place in a banal way: by carefully bending it in one direction or another. But the left looper cannot be bent.

Note that there is only one correct location loopers and needles, in which 51 overlock will work flawlessly. All the figures given are only a guideline when setting up an overlock, some parameters may differ for your machine, it all depends on the installation of the cam. Turning it 1-2 degrees will change the position of both loopers at the same time, but in order not to break the loopers, this adjustment should only be made by an experienced tuner.
The reason for the sudden appearance of gaps may be the displacement of the needle bar with the needle up, check this parameter first. Perhaps by simply lowering the needle bar (screw I) by 0.5-1.0 mm, you will eliminate gaps.

Threading overlock 51 class.
Proper threading is the main condition for the normal operation of the overlocker. Tweezers are used to thread the thread.
First, the thread of the right (upper R) looper is threaded (Fig. P): through two holes 1, between the tensioner washers 6 into the thread feeder 8, under the bracket of the wire thread guide of the thread guide 9 and into the eyes of the looper away from you. From the stand with the bobbin of the lower looper L (left), the thread is threaded (Fig. L) into the hole 1, then into the eye of the thread puller 3 and into the hole of the thread guide 8, fixed on the cover of the machine, through the hole 9 and 10 in the side cover, then through the tensioner 12 , through the tubular thread guide 13, under the thread take-up 14 and into the eyes of the left looper away from you.
The thread of the needle from the rack from the bobbin is carried out (Fig. B) through the holes 1 in the thread guide plate 2, between the washers 3 of the tension regulator, the holes 4 on the left side of the plate 2 in front of the shaped thread puller 5, into the eye 6 of the thread feeder mounted on the leash of the needle mechanism, between washers 7 tension and into the eye of the needle 8 away from you.

Overlock stitch length adjustment (fig. X).
The overall movement of the rail occurs under the action of an eccentric, which is regulated by two screws located deep in the body. An eccentric is attached to the main shaft of the machine. In the body 1 there is a groove for the passage of the slider - the eccentric 4, the displacement of which leads to a change in the length of the stitch (more often, less often). This displacement is carried out by screw 2 after loosening screw 3.

Installation of knives - overlok 51 class.
Trimming the edges of the sewn fabrics is carried out with two knives: the upper movable knife 4 mounted on the swinging lever of the knife 7, and the lower one 11, which is fixed in the block 12 on the machine body. The position of the upper knife 4 is set depending on the width of the overcast. The upper knife is fixed in the holder 5, which can be rearranged in the ears of the lever 7. To move the knife, it is necessary to unscrew the screw 6 of the clamp 10 on the holder 9 with a screwdriver and move the holder to one side or the other, depending on the width of the overcasting. To ensure normal trimming of the material, the upper knife 4 with its plane should fit snugly, without a noticeable gap, against the plane of the lower knife 11. After the upper knife 4 is installed in accordance with the required overcasting width, the lower knife 11 is brought to it, this movement of the block is performed 12 by means of the bottom screw 14 with a round knurling. The front screw 13 on the housing, which secures the block, is first released with a screwdriver. Both the lower and upper knife can also be adjusted in the vertical direction after releasing the fixing screws: 8 for the upper and 1 for the lower knife. The lower knife is installed in the block so that its cutting edge is at the level of the overlog needle plate. The upper knife is set so that its cutting edge overlaps the cutting edge of the lower knife by approximately 1 mm. When changing the width of the overcasting, it is necessary to adjust the position of the plate 2 on the presser foot, releasing the pre-fixing screw 3.

Sewing machine "Radom" - 432 KL.
(manufactured in Poland)

Full zigzag machine with electric drive.

The machine has an original design and is very attractive. appearance. The peculiarity of the device of the machine is that the needle and the shuttle device synchronously with it perform a rectilinear reciprocating motion along the longitudinal axis of the machine with a zigzag.

A zigzag mechanism is mounted at the top in the sleeves on the right, which, by means of a rod, drives the needle bar frame, and at the same time the vertical shaft moves the shuttle travel body through a system of levers. With such a device, the needle does not change its permanent position relative to the shuttle.

The shuttle and the bobbin case are interchangeable with the parts of the Chaika machine. The shuttle is right-handed, swinging in a vertical plane. Shuttle movement drive as in a 2M class PMZ machine: crankshaft-connecting rod-small shaft with a link-crank-shaft of the shuttle pusher. There is a leaf spring on the shuttle pusher. The supply of fabric is carried out as in the case of a 2M class PMZ machine.

The bobbin winder is turned on and off by the bobbin lock.

One of the main negative factors of this machine is the impossibility of giving the flywheel an increased rotational speed. Even at an average speed (300 rpm) of the crankshaft with a zigzag in the machine, an unbalanced perturbing force is formed along the axis of the machine, which leads to strong vibration, which negatively affects not only the stability of the adjustments, but also the connections of all components and parts .

Gap adjustment.

1. Upper thread tension regulator. The compensation spring is adjusted by turning the axis in the base cylinder of the regulator and is locked with an M4 screw. The regulator assembly, being in the opening of the sleeve of the machine, can be rotated to any angle. The seating depth is limited by the rim on the base cylinder.

The compensation spring on the left side rests on a protrusion in the cylinder rim. Starting position spring hook is strictly vertical at the level of the regulator axis.

1. The position of the needle in the slot of the needle plate (Fig. 1), where V = D is normal. Adjustment - factory setting. In extreme cases, by bending the lower end of the needle bar, you can bring the needle to the middle relative to the back and front walls of the gap. You can cut the front or back side of the needle groove in the needle bar. To disassemble the assembly, proceed as follows. Remove the needle holder with thread guide. At the top left of the needle bar frame, loosen the screw securing the thrust. Pull up connecting rod together with pin. Loosen the screw securing the needle bar from the front and pull the latter up.

Needle position B< Г и В >Г - does not play a special role, since such a displacement will be insignificant and will coincide with the plane of rotation of the shuttle. Here B = D is the condition that guarantees the impactless operation of the needle on the needle plate.

Rice. 1. The position of the needle in the needle plate (machine "Radom" 432 cells, "AIKO" -AE 350 cells):

1 - back side; 2 - front side; 3 - needle; 4 - the trajectory of the shuttle: A \u003d B - straight line; M \u003d K - zigzag stitch; B \u003d G - normal position of the needle; a is the distance between the needle and the shuttle; b - the moment of the meeting of the needle with the shuttle

1. The position of the needle in the gap of the needle plate on a straight stitch. M - left side. K is the right side. A \u003d B - normal and regulated by traction. At the top of the sleeves, the frame of the needle bar with the zigzag block is connected by a lamellar thrust. At its right end there is an adjusting screw, by loosening which, you can lengthen or shorten the rod.
2. Adjust the position of the needle in the slot of the needle plate with a zigzag so that M = K is normal. M - left zigzag prick, K - right zigzag prick. Deviations when M > K and M< К — недопустимы, так как это нарушит величину зазора между иглой и челноком в вертикальной плоскости его движения, что приведет или к поломке иглы (М >K), or to skip stitches in stitching (M< К). Так бывает, если челнок на месте, а игла сместилась. Но при смещении челнока и незыблемости иглы значения М и К будут другими. Регулировать, изменяя длину тяги (см.П.3).
3. The gap between the needle and the shuttle in the plane of its movement should be within 0.05-0.1 mm. The whole device, which ensures strict synchronism of the movement of the needle and the shuttle, is aimed precisely at ensuring the stability of this very small gap. During prolonged operation or at a high flywheel speed (400 rpm or more), this gap is violated first and the entire synchronous movement is mismatched - the machine fails.

To adjust the machine and restore synchronism, the following methods should be used. Roll the car over to the back. Place a support 160 mm high under the machine arm. The body 1 of the shuttle stroke on the right has an elongated hollow pin 4, which runs in the same sleeve pressed into the body of the platform. At the right end of the trunnion there is a clamp-bracket 5, connected by a rod with a vertical shaft, which performs oscillatory movements during a zigzag. The amplitude of the shaft oscillation is equal to the width of the zigzag. By loosening the screw 6 fastening the clamp at the end of the trunnion, you can turn the shuttle travel housing at a certain angle and move it longitudinally to the right or left. When the body is shifted to the left, the gap decreases, to the right it increases.

1. The distance between the needle and the guide plate, screwed with two screws to the body of the shuttle, is 0.8-1 mm. It is adjusted by turning the shuttle travel housing. Turning it clockwise increases the distance, while turning it counterclockwise decreases it.
2. The entry of the nose of the shuttle behind the needle, when it is in the lowest position, is 3.5 mm (Fig. 1). Adjust as follows: on the right end of the shuttle pusher shaft, a bracket for the backstage of the small shaft is fixed with a clamp. After loosening the fastening screw from below and holding the flywheel from turning, turn the pusher shaft, and hence the shuttle, in one direction or the other. After setting the desired distance, tighten the clamping screw of the collar tightly (it is very inconvenient to do this).
3. The moment the shuttle nose meets the needle is determined by two factors:

a) during the time from the beginning of the movement of the needle and the shuttle until the moment they meet, the needle must travel a path of at least 2 mm. It will be better if it passes more than 2 mm. Here the score is in tenths of a millimeter;

b) the eye of the needle at the lowest position should not be obstructed by the input end of the shuttle pusher. Otherwise, the loop-overlap will be bent by the end of the pusher to the side and stitches will be skipped in the line (this item is the same for all machines with a similar hook and pusher device). The meeting should take place at a distance of 2 mm above the eye of the needle.

All adjustments of the shuttle with a needle should be made when the stitch type control knob is set to a straight stitch (see Aiko sewing machine).

When setting knob 2 (fig.) to the mark "zero" - there is a straight wavy line. To eliminate the problem, remove the top cover of the sleeve. Set lever 2 to "1". Loosen screw 3 and move lever 2 slightly to the right. Tighten the screw 3. Turn on the machine and, while performing a straight stitch, see if there is any waviness; if it has not disappeared, repeat the operation. By moving lever 2 to the right (left) by a very small amount, the waviness on the straight stitch will disappear.

Rice. The upper part of the zigzag block "Radom" -432:

1 - front wall of the sleeve; 2 - lever for setting the zigzag width; 3 - straight stitch adjusting screw; 4 - rod; 5 - adjusting screw for the position of the needle on the zigzag.

The lower part of the needle bar is bent. To straighten it, you need to disassemble the needle bar assembly:

1) remove the shield with the cartridge and bring it to the back side;

2) disassemble the presser bar assembly;

3) Loosen the two screws of the lock bushings of the presser foot bar. Lower the lower bushing down, the upper bushing up and remove the frame with the needle bar. Pull out the needle bar through the bottom eyelet;

4) on an open flame, heat the lower end of the needle bar to a crimson color and straighten it.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order. Check the operation of the needle bar. Its movement up and down should be easy, without the slightest jamming.