A brief history of the choker: the pros and cons of the controversial accessory

Many perceive the choker exclusively as an element of teenage fashion from the nineties and nothing more! But in fact, a choker is one of the most ancient jewelry with a rich history and many different meanings and connotations that have changed over time.

If you are sure that a choker is just a plastic trinket, we invite you to a short journey into the past, which can radically change your opinion!

16th century: golden mountains

Portrait of a woman. Lucas Cranach the Elder, 1526. Portrait of a Lady. Hans Baldung ca. 1530.

It must be said that chokers appeared in ancient times, and the meaning of the accessory varied greatly: among the Mayan tribe, a choker symbolized the power of the leader, and in antiquity, choker collars were an attribute of slaves!

But during the Renaissance, all these subtleties did not matter - the choker came into fashion as an adornment for the rich. Massive gold necklaces, decorated with pearls and precious stones, tightly clasped the owner’s neck and from afar indicated that the lady had no shortage of material goods.

18th century: naked prudes

Portrait of Countess Ekaterina Ivanovna Golovkina. Louis Tocquet, 1757. Woman in blue. Thomas Gainsborough, late 1770s-early 1780s.

The Age of Enlightenment convinced even the most decent ladies that there was nothing wrong with a deep and revealing neckline. Considering that high hairstyles were also in fashion, visually the neck and open chest seemed too naked, in the literal and figurative sense. Chokers came to the rescue, and black velvet ribbons were especially popular. Such a velvet could be very simple, or it could be decorated with pearls or a pendant.

19th century: courtesans and ballerinas

1863, Olympia, Edouard Manet

Oddly enough, in these times black velvet chokers have become an identifying mark of courtesans; Manet’s famous “Olympia” is a clear example of this. But, for example, in the paintings of Edgar Degas you can often see chokers as an accessory for ballerinas. Of course, this did not mean that they were all frivolous, but at the same time there were many among them who were looking for a rich patron...

Towards the end of the century, something unusual happened: the Princess of Wales, the future Queen Alexandra of Denmark, introduced chokers and unusual wide beads that hid the neck to the chin into fashion. The reason for this choice of the princess was not a whim, but a physical disability - in childhood she underwent surgery, which left a scar on her neck.

Alexandra Danskaya, Creative Commons

The “dark past” of the choker was left behind, now everyone wore it! Moreover, the variety of styles has become truly extraordinary: from the usual ribbons to complex bead weaving.

20th century: dog collars and mass love

This is exactly how the chokers, which had come into fashion again, were dubbed in the West - however, fashionistas had nothing against such an unsightly definition. Simple black velvet ribbons decorated with rhinestones, beads, and semiprecious stones were once again popular.

In the 90s, there was a real choker boom: absolutely everyone wore them, from Hollywood stars to schoolgirls from the outback. It was then that plastic chokers, accessible to everyone and extremely cheap, appeared. It is difficult to say what the reason for such popular adoration was, but the fact remains that chokers have become popular not only among the general public, but also in various subcultures.

21st century: chic, shine, beauty

Photo: Shiatzy Chen, Zara, Fashion Z

In 2016, chokers returned to fashion, but it was in our era that diversity reached its apogee! High fashion has introduced the world to rich, sophisticated, extravagant chokers, many of which are comparable to works of art, the mass market, in turn, regularly supplies jewelry for every taste and budget, and those who do needlework and simply love handmade items are happy to make DIY chokers.

Choker: pros and cons

So, to summarize our historical excursion, it should be noted that the choker actually has a number of not the most noble semantic shades - for some, a direct resemblance to collars for animals and slaves, as well as a connection with the outfit of a courtesan, may not be the most attractive characteristic! On the other hand, a choker is first and foremost a necklace, and a precious and beautifully decorated one, so perhaps opponents of this accessory should simply pay attention to its other styles.

With what and how to wear a choker today?

If you are already eager to add a choker to your accessory collection, there are several rules to consider when choosing jewelry:

Photo: Free people, J. Crew

- a choker is not suitable for those who have a naturally short neck, but an exception could be a choker with hanging elements, chains and pendants - they will visually “stretch” the silhouette;

Never wear a choker over clothing, only on bare skin. It was no coincidence that ladies of the Enlightenment era combined necklines and chokers; this is the most spectacular combination! The combination of a choker and a V-neck works great;

Photo: Nasty Gal, Asos

Pattern:

A block ribbon along the V neckline adds a romantic, draped float top...

Pattern:

Due to the insertion of the neckline, lapels and long counter pleat, it seems that we have two things in front of us -...

Pattern:

Featuring raised seams, this wool V-neck dress seductively echoes…

- it is still believed that a choker and a business style are poorly compatible, but this is only a matter of style: an elegant chain choker will look great with a shirt or a formal blouse;

Pattern:

72, 76, 80, 84, 88

Draping shelves, superimposed on one another, velvet sleeves with tempting gaps and so on...